What finish for a teak saloon-table - teak oil, OSMO Polyx oil, or varnish?

[Babylon]

I ought to know the answer to this one as a bespoke furniture-maker, but wonder what the assembled wisdom is regarding finishing interior teak on a boat.

Currently restoring the original folding saloon table on my boat, which is entirely teak in solid and veneer. I'd normally use OSMO Hardwax Polyx oil these days on domestic furniture and wouldn't have given this a second thought, but have now been advised to only ever use teak oil on teak.

The rest of the interior was professionally stripped and re-varnished with Hempel, so that is an option too.

Any opinions?

 

[northwind]

I ought to know the answer to this one as a bespoke furniture-maker, but wonder what the assembled wisdom is regarding finishing interior teak on a boat.

Currently restoring the original folding saloon table on my boat, which is entirely teak in solid and veneer. I'd normally use OSMO Hardwax Polyx oil these days for careful but easy building up a few coats on domestic furniture and wouldn't have given this a second thought, but have now been advised to only ever use teak oil on teak.


The rest of the interior was professionally stripped and re-varnished with Hempel, so that is an option too.

Any opinions?

I've used OSMO on woodwork added to the interior of my boat. once its gone hard its great.

 

[sailorman]

Epifanes varnish, although i have internarional satin on mine, last done some 17 yrs ago

 

[Tranona]

Oil is fine on internal woodwork, although it does need maintenance. However, i have always used Ronseal satin which is a short cut way of getting a good durable finish. one of the rubbed effect finishes from Epifanes or International arguably gives a better finish but is more work.

 

[rob2]

Teak oil does give a pleasant sheen to interior woodwork and is easy to refresh simply by wiping a few more coats on. The only caution is that it will also absorb oils ... My mate dumped an oily, used air filter on the saloon table and I will forever have the reminder!

Rob.

 

[sailorman]

be very careful to dispose of any rage used with teak or linseed oils, as it can self ignite.
Soak in water and or lay out flat outside on a non combustible surface.

 

[bigwow]

Used SEMCO on mine.

 

[Babylon]

Teak oil does give a pleasant sheen to interior woodwork and is easy to refresh simply by wiping a few more coats on. The only caution is that it will also absorb oils ... My mate dumped an oily, used air filter on the saloon table and I will forever have the reminder!

Rob.

Yes, that's why I want to use an oil-product which has resin-hardeners mixed in. Build up a few thinned coats, with plenty of time to dry between each, and you get a penetrating oil plus a resistant surface.

I'm happy with periodic maintenance, ie wiping on a fresh coat every few years, but don't fancy regular oiling!

Jon

PS - the oily air-filter stain will one day make your saloon table really valuable - its called 'patina'!

 

[sailorman]

Oil will not "penetrate" a veneer beyond the glue line

 

[Babylon]

Oil will not "penetrate" a veneer beyond the glue line

Correct. Decorative veneers are normally 0.7mm thick, so they'll quickly dry out if just oiled (especially if on a desk in a sunny location with a hot laptop direct on the surface etc), but my saloon-table's veneers are 2mm thick, which is 'more like 'constructional-veneer' thickness.

 

[DickB]

I used Blakes (Hempel) oil based varnish. I wanted a satin finish, and a guy at the boat show from the Hempel stand said use about five coats of gloss varnish end finish off with one coat of satin. Very happy with the result. That's was two years ago and not touched it since.

cheers,

 

[sailorman]

if you use all satin it will get a bloom rather than bright clear satin. i would 2 coats of satin to make sure of the area being fully coated / covered ( i coat might miss a small area)

 

[Yngmar]

For a table you'll want a fairly hard finish, so I'd go with a PU product (Polyurethane - Epifanes PU for example). Or a traditional varnish (like Le Tonkinois). That'll give a nice but softer finish and you can simply key and add a coat whenever it's starting to look a bit scratched up.

Oil is for cooking or frying.