Wayfarer dinghy trailer/launch trolley plans?

M

MANXPEDRO

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Hello everybody!

I've obviously had a bang on the head, and got my self a sailing dinghy! As much as I dont like getting unneccesserily wet, I know I'm going to gt a bit damp on a Wayfarer!

Amyway, the on I've just got, is on a mild steel road trailer which has seen better days.

I have seen trailers which has a lighter weight launching trolley 'piggy back'?? the road trailer.

I dont suppose anybody has one, and if so, perhaps photograph it, or maybe sketch some plans and measurements so I can get one knocked up?

I'll be really appreaciative if anybody can help me out.

Living in hope, many thanks,

Pedro.
 
Wayfarers are heavy boats so it's essential to get the support in the right place on launch trolleys. If it's wrong you can damage the hull when towing (potholes, sleeping policemen etc.) Also if the boat fills with rainwater the hull can break around the support pads if in the wrong place.
You need to do the research.
 
Thanks everybody for your comments. I've had a look on ebay and have then in my watching list.

I've done a bit of sailing (hobi-cats in the Bahamas (never tipped one over!) and had my own 17' day sailor) and never come unstuck, but if I go steady, I'll try to keep her upright!

I've read many comments about them being a little on the heavy side, so i'm aware that the trailer needs to be substantial. I'll keep her covered when not in use to keep the rain out anyway.

One idea that did come to mind, was to see if there was any outside the yacht club, where I could have a look at.

Thanks again for your help.....I'll let you know how I get on!
 
A wise choice of dinghy!
Should you find trailer and combi trolley you would be advised to have a second jockey wheel for the trolley, this makes it a reasonable load for launching, and when wheel is removed for trailing its tube fits onto a spigot to secure to the trailer itself.
The trolley pads should be at least 6" wide and of a carpet surface to help slide into the water and spread the load.
My original trailer had solid 8" long plastic rollers to assist loading the trolley and boat for trailing home.


ianat182
 
If you can get hold of a copy of the "Trailer Manual" which Indespension used to publish you will find plans for a suitable trailer/ trolley combi.


PM sent
 
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Lakesailor said:
Wayfarers are heavy boats so it's essential to get the support in the right place on launch trolleys. If it's wrong you can damage the hull when towing (potholes, sleeping policemen etc.) Also if the boat fills with rainwater the hull can break around the support pads if in the wrong place.
You need to do the research.
Click to expand...
For a Wayfarer the main weight should be on the keel, with little or none on the bilge runners.
 
Lakesailor said:
Whilst I agree with you the manufacturers seem undecided.
Click to expand...
Some of those look distinctly dodgy. The advice from the UK association and published on the "Wayfarer Institute of Technology" is clear that the weight should be taken on the keel. Trying to support the boat at the bilges is likely to cause the hull to flex locally which can damage or detach the floorboard support rails.

I can't recall the specific advice about where the keel supports are best located fore and aft, although I always felt that our trailer would have been better with some support further back. I suppose the strongest points would be at the front bulkhead, and directly under the thwart.

Your earlier point about water is well made as well. Even sitting on the best designed trailer you don't want the weight of a boat full of water. Leaving the bailers (if fitted) open is a good idea.
 
gandy said:
Some of those look distinctly dodgy. The advice from the UK association and published on the "Wayfarer Institute of Technology" is clear that the weight should be taken on the keel. Trying to support the boat at the bilges is likely to cause the hull to flex locally which can damage or detach the floorboard support rails.

I can't recall the specific advice about where the keel supports are best located fore and aft, although I always felt that our trailer would have been better with some support further back. I suppose the strongest points would be at the front bulkhead, and directly under the thwart.

Your earlier point about water is well made as well. Even sitting on the best designed trailer you don't want the weight of a boat full of water. Leaving the bailers (if fitted) open is a good idea.
Click to expand...

There are some issues with dinghy trolleys/trailers.
Firstly, the keel on a dinghy like a Wayfarer is not an immensely strong structure like on a yacht, it is a relatively light fabrication of wood or GRP
Therefore it is not really suitable for taking the whole weight of the boat in a point load.
It is better to support the boat across the whole width of the floor, spreading the load on foam or other compliant supports. A full width cradle that fits the hull is good.
Secondly, boat trailers are not very rigid. They tend to twist as you drive over bumps etc.
so the boat should only be supported in a few places, so it's not forced to bend with the trailer.
Thirdly, most trailer suspension is absolute rubbish, dinghies on trailers can be subject to a lot of destructive vibration if the supports are too rigid.
Fourthly, the way you tie it down should not stress the boat as the trailer twists, squeeze the gunwhales in or prevent the foam pads from allowing the boat to move a little.

There is a Wayf Trailer on eBay now BTW.
 
lw395 said:
... Firstly, the keel on a dinghy like a Wayfarer is not an immensely strong structure like on a yacht, it is a relatively light fabrication of wood or GRP
Therefore it is not really suitable for taking the whole weight of the boat in a point load.
It is better to support the boat across the whole width of the floor, spreading the load on foam or other compliant supports. A full width cradle that fits the hull is good. ...
Click to expand...
The point isn't to claim that the keel is immensely strong, rather that it is the strongest part of the boat. The forces on the mast transfer directly down there (no load should be on the pivot pin), and there is a beam of sorts from the bulkhead back to the centreboard case which itself is probably the strongest part of the boat. In contrast the sides, especially towards the stern are relatively flexible. Ours was a MkII so of course I'm most familiar with that, but I can't really think it would be different for any of the other variants (except maybe the SD).

You are of course free to use whatever means you wish for your own Wayfarer. I was quite happy with mine supported as advised. From the UK class association, two very slightly different opinions ...

"Most damage to a Wayfarer hull is caused by the boat being supported on a trolley by the two (side) bilge keels, which can cause the floor bearers to come away from the inner hull, and distort the shape of the underside (easily visible). Remove the floor boards, to check the floor bearers. The hull should always be supported along its central chine, and should slightly rock from side to side onto trolley supports for its bilge keels."

And .."Your boat spends a lot of time on its trolley, so check that it supports your boat correctly. I like to see a boat with most of its weight taken on the strongest part of the boat - the keel. The side supports are really just to bear the boat laterally. Too much weight on the bilge keels can damage them and also tends to concave the hull panels."

And similar from the Canadian association (lots of technical articles there) ... "Basic set-up: Your trailer should be set up such that (almost) the entire weight of your Wayfarer is supported by its keel, i.e. the keel rollers of your trailer should do all of the real support work, and the bits off to the sides should act only to keep the boat from tilting appreciably to port or starboard. "

And "If at all possible, you want a tilt-bed trailer with longitudinal supports (mine fit just inside the bilge keels on each side) set so that they keep the boat reasonably level but do not support significant weight (which should be supported by the keel rollers)."

And relayed second-hand from the builders themselves (Porters) via WIT .."The only thing I would add to Ton's report is that I am sure I can remember Ian Porter saying that more structural damage is done to boats on trailers than is done when they are on the water. It is important that all the weight of the boat is taken by the central hog, rather than the two bilge keels, and the boat should be able to rock very slightly from one bilge keel to the other to ensure the weight is on the central keel. I will re-check this info with Ian Porter if I have time before I leave for the Baltic on Fri, or else I will do so on my return (22nd July)."

The only variance seems to be between those who want "all" the weight on the keel, and those who will settle for "most".
 
For my 13ft clinker dinghy I modified a jetski trailer with rollers under the keel and flexible bunks at either side which deformed to take the curve of the bilge. I also replaced the suspension units with the lightest rated one at 250Kgs the pair. The boat and trailer weighed just over 200kgs and the outfit rode very smoothly.

Clinker%20Dinghy53.jpg



Clinker%20Dinghy04.jpg
 
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I don't have a Wayfarer, but its not very different from most dinghies.
Or is the hog a lot more substantial than I'm thinking?
You are probably right about the bilge keels/strakes, they will point load the hull in the middle of a relatively weak panel.
A proper cradle will support the hull out to the turn of the bilge where the panel is supported along its edge by the chine.
Modern dinghies of foam sandwich construction really do not like point loads. It's not great for plywood either. A modern dinghy is basically a shell, very stiff and strong if the forces are distributed into it carefully.
When you tie the boat down, the force from the straps is pushing the hull down by the sides, in my view this force needs to be taken by the cradle, rather than bending the floor of the boat.
A cradle will at least spread the load over a length of the keel, unlike a roller.

Either way, the force on the supports is a lot when you hit a pothole. I suppose a Wayfarer has an advantage over my boat in that it's heavier, so the trailer suspension might work a bit better.

Have look at
http://welshharp.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=147

sovereign trailers are well regarded in most fleets.
 
lw395 said:
... Or is the hog a lot more substantial than I'm thinking?
Click to expand...
Between the bulkhead and the back of the centreboard case it is. Forward there's the bulkhead of the front compartment (full height on Mk1 and 1A, only partial on the MkII), then there's a beam from the bulkhead under the mast step running back to the centreboard case. At the mast step there's support up to the foredeck, and the centreboard case is braced laterally by the thwart. That area is where all the rig forces are borne, and also the hydrodynamic forces from the centreboard.

Remember it was a plywood design, and the single curvature panels between chines are not as stiff as a modern fully rounded hull except where the framing was specifically built in.

Our trailer was set up as recommended, and when strapped down to towing the bilges were just snug against the lateral supports of the trailer. I would have been happier if there were several keel rollers, and if the support had extended further aft, but I think that is part of the compromise of a combi trailer.
 
Be careful with the tension on hold down straps to the trailer. On my older Wayfarer the straps have crushed the gunwales slightly. Its obvious that over the years this area, forward of the thwart, aft of the shrouds has been subject to regular over tightening. I have made a ply board that sits across the beam and locates either side of the side decks. The outer edges of the board are well rounded and the ply is 20 mm thick. The load is now spread over a winder area preventing any further damage.

Another tip. I found that the common number plate and tail light board, readily available from car accessory shops, has a power lead that is too short. So either buy a 2 meter extension (buy the fittings and make this up) or extend the board's lead.

Finally if you have the Mark II SD version, the one with the moulded in floor designed to self drain on a mooring, carry out capsize drills. They sit high in the water when capsized and will turn turtle very easily, so its best to have practised righting them. The centre board pivot is not normal in this version. I have templates if you need to make a new pivot.
 
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my wayfarer had a bought launching trolly with a jockey wheel at the front and a roller for the keel with wide pads outside for the strakes / hull

The roller really helps when recovering the boat as it makes it easier to pull the boat onto the trolley without being in too deep.

Would recommend buying a launching trolly. You'll find it difficult to build cheaper yourself.

You could maybe recover the running gear to make a new under trailer. I did this with my enterprise and my kestrel and its easy if you're good with an arc welder.

Both were an A frame with a pipe welded as a roller at the end to assist pulling on the trolly.

I sized the A frame by turning the trolley upside down and making it fit the trolly.

A second beam for the axle is then positioned forward of the roller located to get the balance right.

I used indespension units and mini wheels on both.

I was tighter back then. Its a lot of man hours to save a few quid

Do you need to move the boat much. IOM is not a big place. Can you have a trolley only and borrow someone else's under trailer when you want to move the boat. In which case buy a trolley to match his under trailer!

By the way my mark 1 woody was stiff at the points the trolley supported it. I think the structural integrity bit below is a red herring if you have a decent trolley. Just leave the self bailer down and the boat will be fine.
 
I rebuilt a Heron. This included new 6mm ply on the bottom at one side.
The bloke who bought it punched the support pads through the floor at both sides. One side was the brand new 6mm marine ply.
I reckon he drove over a sleeping policeman too fast. The fact there is a hole either side of a frame makes me think he let the boat slip along the trailer as well.

HoledHeron.jpg
 
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I had a roller punch thro the bottom of my Heron some years ago. I had trailed it 300 miles to Loch Lomond using it as a camping trailer. :eek:

The lashings had slackened off a bit so the boat shifted & all the "support" ended up on a single roller which ended up in the middle of a panel.

A tingle on the inside & a bit of filler on the outside allowed us to carry on around Scotland & I replaced the bottom panel over the winter. Dinghies are very resilient to damage if you deal with it fairly promptly.
 
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