Water Tank

[itsonlymoney]

There has been a lot of discussion on the forum lately relating to winter requirements. Engine heaters, dehumidifiers oil filled rads etc.
How many of you consider it necassary to drain the Domestic water tank. Its a pain keep filling it and draining it down again. Will it come to any harm to just leave it full. For the record boat is Bayliner 2655 tank appears to be midships somewere (Martyn you were right) onboard every weekend but have no heating in cabin only engine heaters so waste tank and water heating tank ok.

Ian



<hr width=100% size=1>Play the best game you can with the cards you've been dealt ! ! !

 

[Dave_Snelson]

I'm glad you asked that question 'cos I don't know either. I would hate to think of the cost of a split tank though!!

<hr width=100% size=1>Madoc Yacht Club
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.madocyachtclub.co.uk>http://www.madocyachtclub.co.uk</A>

 

[Talbot]

I leave water in mine when afloat, but drain when out of the water. However, if you have a water heater, that is best drained - must remember to do it this weekend!!!

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[itsonlymoney]

What even if its in the engine bay with heaters fitted ?

Ian



<hr width=100% size=1>Play the best game you can with the cards you've been dealt ! ! !

 

[dog]

I ran the system empty at the end of last season and left the taps open. All was fine at the start of this year- maybe I was just lucky. Im not sure if my approach would help, as someone told me that pipes freeze from each end and form 'plugs' then as the whole lot expands it splits.

I cant easily get to the main tank, so I am hesitant to drain it fully.

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[DavidJ]

No I don't believe you were lucky, it's the way (when I had boats in the UK) that I had done it for over a decade and had no problems. I do drain the calorifier and a tip I learned early on is to drain it with a pipe going through the speed sensor (whirly thing) hole (out of the water of course!)

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[DepSol]

Speak to Piers about water tanks as he is an expert on purifying them /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

Sorry Piers

<hr width=100% size=1>Dom

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.soltron.co.uk>the website</A>

 

[HeadMistress]

Winterize or not

If the boat is to be kept in the water, and if the water the boat is in doesn't freeze, it should not be necessary to winterize plumbing...because the hull and everything in it below the waterline takes its temperature off the water surrounding it.

However, if the boat is to be kept out of the water, and if temperatures below 30F can be expected to last more than overnight, it IS advisable to winterize both the fresh water system and the sanitation system...in which case, here are directions:

WINTERIZING PLUMBING

Fresh water system

1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets).

2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of getting all the water out of it.

3.Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores.

4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system.


Sanitation system

1. Pump holding tank out, then rinse thoroughly by completely filling with fresh water and 1 gallon of white vinegar twice.

2. Close toilet intake through-hull, disconnect inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of non-toxic potable antifreeze. Pump the whole gallon through the system into the holding tank. Do not reconnect head intake hose to the through-hull.

3. Pump the head 50 times to get as much fluid out of the system as possible.

4. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water.

Do not use antifreeze in a Lectra/San or PuraSan. Follow manufacturers instructions to winterize all Type I and II MSDs.

In the spring, whether the fresh water system has been winterized or not, it should be recommissioned to sanitize and remove the taste/smell of antifreeze. I'll post directions then for doing it...unless someone needs them now.

<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987

 

[MedDreamer]

Re: Winterize or not

Hi Peg and welcome to MBC. I have not seen you on here before but have read your stuff on the Bayliner Owners Club (I'm Martyn 2855 on there).

Great answer, please keep looking in beccause I know many on here will benefit from your knowledge and experience

Martyn

<hr width=100% size=1>Do you think a Fleming 55 would look out of place on Windermere?

 

[HeadMistress]

Thanks, Martyn!

Glad to see a familiar "face" from the BOC here!

An old UK friend from the compuserve sailing forum days invited me to join your merry UK band of ragbaggers and stinkpotters, I've been here for a few months now, mostly lurking unless a plumbing issue comes up. And I'm enjoying it thoroughly....finding these forums to be some of the best around.

Merry Christmas!

<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987

 

[Dave_Snelson]

Re: Thanks, Martyn!

Hi Peggy,

I have seen you post here before and it has always been sound advice. I have a Jabsco sea toilet, and for fresh water I have 30 gallon holding tank with pressure activated pump. I guess that the fresh water side of things is covered well enough now. Have you any tips for the Jabsco unit? The boat is staying in the harbour this winter.

<hr width=100% size=1>Madoc Yacht Club
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.madocyachtclub.co.uk>http://www.madocyachtclub.co.uk</A>

 

[HeadMistress]

Toilet in winter

Hi Dave...as long as the water doesn't freeze, it shouldn't be necessary to do anything to the toilet...the intake is below the waterline. I would, however, take extra care to leave all seacocks closed when you aren't aboard, and make sure to check all hose connections and hose clamps...'cuz boats seemingly have a nasty tendancy to make devasting mischief all by themselves when they sit unused for more than a week or two. ..it's as if they actually WANT to sink while your back is turned!

I would lubricate the toilet though...and the best way to do that is by replacing the same grease that was in it when it left the factory--a thick teflon grease...available (at least it is here in the US) from most auto parts and swimming pool supply stores.

It's a VERY easy job that takes all of 10 minutes and only has to be done once a year to keep the pump pumping smoothly for a full year: just remove the top of the pump (depending on the age of it, that will either require removing 6 screws or one nut)...put a healthy squirt of the grease inside it...pump a few times in the dry mode to spread it all over the inside of the cylinder...put the top back on...you're done.

Doing it now protects the rubber parts in the toilet from drying out and becoming brittle from lack of use and winter cold. Also use the same teflon grease to lubricate y-valves and seacocks. Don't use anything else, btw...teflon grease is water soluble, but not easily (which is why it's used in submerged swimming pool pumps)--so it lasts a long time, and won't damage rubber and neoprene.

If you don't plan to use the boat, pump out and thoroughly rinse out the holding tank--pump out, add a few gallons of water down the deck pumpout fitting ('cuz that sends the water into the tank at the bottom to stir up any sludge)...pump that out...repeat...repeat...till only clean water is being pumped out. If you have a macerator to dump the tank at sea, run it when there's only clean water in the tank to rinse it out too...that will keep the impeller from sticking to the housing and possibly breaking a vane when you try to use it the first time next year.

That SHOULD be all you need to do. However, I strongly advise that you check on your boat weekly--or at least ever couple of weeks--during the winter, and especially after any storms...to make certain that no cockpit drains have become clogged by leaves or other debris, no animals or insects have taken up housekeeping aboard, that all dock lines are secure and not fraying or chafing...that the wind hasn't released a canvas snap to let canvas flap itself to death... As I said at the beginning, boats can make a lot mischief for themselves when your back is turned...and the sooner you discover any problems, the smaller they are and the easier it is to correct them...BEFORE they have time to become big (big = expensive) problems.



<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987