water seals on a Yanmar 1GM10 raw water pump

[Rickm505]

A year or so ago, there was a very good thread on Practical Boat Owner's Reader to Reader, regarding replacing water seals on a Yanmar 1GM10 raw water pump. It had instructions and photos, and was very detailed. I tried to add this post to that old thread, but was unable to do so.

Today I removed the raw water pump from one of my Yanmar 1GM10s and am using those instructions to replace the seals.

I have a couple of questions (of course). Since I can't PM the original poster of that thread, I was hoping someone on the board would have some experience in this matter, and would be kind enough to advise me.

Is there a trick to removing the existing water seals? Mine are shredding and resisting reasonable attempts to carefully remove them.

Alas my pump shaft looks seriously grooved. Is there a technique to seat new seals against a grooved shaft?

And lastly, the last post in that thread seemed to indicate that all was well with the pump rebuild after 20 hours. I was wondering if that were still the case?

Thanks in advance

Rick in Florida USA

 

[steve6367]

I have a 1GM - cant remember exactly how I got the seals out - but do remember I ended up replacing the shaft as well.

I think if it is badly grooved then it is time for a new one - not cheap!

Steve

 

[30boat]

It's all quite easy.You should use a suitable drift if you can fit it in the body of the pump(it's been quite sometime since I owned one of these so I don'd remenber the shape of the pump well) .If you can't you'll have to remove the seals with a screw driver taking care not to mark the pump.Make sure you save the O'ring springs.If in good shape you can buy regular cheap O'rings and then replace the spring with the old ones wich are stainless.The shaft will be most likely grooved but a new one can be inexpensively made by your local engineer. 316 SSteel should be good enough.
Good luck.

 

[NPMR]

From my experience if the shaft is grooved it's worth replacing it. (In the UK expensive but in the US less so)

Try Torreson Marine; they seem to be efficient and get parts quickly.

 

[30boat]

I meant the seals springs,sorry.

 

[jerryat]

A good tip I had from our local bearings dealer was to immediately replace the 'stainless steel' springs with ordinary 'O' rings which don't corrode. In fact, as we were buying a dozen of the things for our cruising spares box, he did the job for us when we bought 'em. Brilliant idea when you think about it.

He also said, that using an 'O' ring a size smaller on the seal if it is leaking and you don't have a spare, will almost certainly stop or reduce the leak and allow you to get home. ANother good tip!

 

[Mukes]

I did this last year. If the shaft is grooved then replace was the advice I was given as the seals will not form a water tight fit.

I removed the old seals using thin nosed pliers being careful not to mark/deform the pump housing as it seems quite soft - the old seals were destroyed during this proces.

It may aslo be worth checking the condition of the front oil pipes as if the water pump has been leaking salt water on them - they may be corroded and about to fail - dumping all the oil in your bilge. A common problem I believe and I think I remember that someone has made replacement front oil pipes out of a rubber/plastic material to prevent this but I did not discover their existance until too late.

 

[Rickm505]

I replaced both oil pipes recently, as your are right, the leaking water pump did destroy them. That was when I discovered how badly this water pump was leaking from the weep hole.

I was wondering if anyone has tried something like this:

http://www.worldpath.net/~thompson/acb/seal/speedi.htm

This is a thin stainless steel sleeve which is designed exactly for this purpose.

Rick in Florida