Washing machine removal - squadron 58

jrudge

jrudge

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My washing machine has a leaky fill valve. Simple repair

I need to slide the machine out. I have removed the top panel to see if it tilts but nothing.

I can ( and will !) progressively dismantle it but I wondered if anyone knew how it was held in as at this point there is nothing obvious.

Thanks
 
Sorry unable to help, we have a similar problem with our machine ,suspect water inlet Solenoid Letting by, hoping to just remove top shelf to gain access ,as we have a gap at the back on our squadron 52 , would be interested on how you get on , at present we just leave isolation valves shut untill we want to use it ,
Thanks for any assistance
 
The issue will be that the “top “ of the machine needs to come off which of course incorporates the sides !

I won’t do it for 10 days or so when next down as I have friends here now.

The job itself is simple. Just getting the damn thing out which also requires a load of custom cabinetry in the utility room to be dismantled!
 
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Have to agree with you ,normally the top of the washing machine is held on by two screws at the rear , going to have a look and see how the work top is fixed above it, we are being relaunched tomorrow , then away for three weeks ,be a job for a rainy day :)
 
J my earlier email was hurried because I thought you were “on the job”. Here is full steps list:

1. Undo wire for blind if you have this. Unscrew the bullet thing
2. Remove bull nosed melamine worktop above washing machine. Screws each end under plastic caps.
3. You can now undo water/waste/230v behind machine (good time to spur a 230v double socket in wall abaft of window, for dyson/microwave etc. Wall panel stuck out bit is nicely hollow behind).
4. Remove the beige melamine c300 mm high “skirting board” at bottom of washing machine.
5. This reveals length of chunky softwood (maybe 6x2) on which front of washing machine sits. The machine is held against “storm movement” here. Either by studs/nuts/bolts attached to the threaded holes in machine’s chassis where height adjustable feet go, or by the washing machine feet sitting in recesses in the 6x2. Anyway, it will be obvious.
6. It helps also to remove the vertical trim strips (of melamine faced ply) each side of w/machine.
7. Then drag it out.
8. To do a perfect reinstall you need a tube of beige/ivory silicone sealant for the fillet corners in the cabinet work.
9. As you’ll know, a 90degree angled makita 18v power drill/screwdriver is worth having for jobs like this.

By bit of coincidence I’m in Mallorca now for 4 days work. In palma. You’re cala d’or I guess, so a bit far for a quick beer alas.
 
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Thanks all

I think step one is to remove worktop and remove machine lid in situ ( which helpfully is not connected to the sides which was my assumption. )

I should ( haha it a boat no way !) be able to reach and remove the valves.

We will see !
 
There is a 3 way valve that controls the water in and where it goes.

The valve already has a fault ( which seems a know weakness) as the dryer function has never worked.

It is at the top so I should be able to replace ( should!) without machinecremoval ( which requires a load more cabinets in the utility to be removed!
 
Aha, I see.
It was just the plural that made me curious, 'cause I couldn't think of any reason to have other valve aside from fresh water inlet.
Actually, in my boat I have valves also on all outlets (even those above the w/line) which are meant only for emergencies.
But the washing machine discharge, as you might remember, was just connected to the existing discharge in the galley.
Good luck with your job, sounds like something that I'm happy to not need to do! :D
 
Fixed

My flight back was delayed from 7pm a 3:15 am departure so I canceled and come back tonight. Girlfriend is having girls trip on boat so she suggested I fix the washing machine.

The issue was a leaking valve and also the dryer not working due to dryer water solenoid fault. It is the same part a 3 wat valve

I did not appreciate ( a) the worktop on top was fixed from above - assumed below and b that the lid comes off independently of the sides ( both discoveries from comments on here and a bit of google

This then let’s you access the water valve which is a 10 min or less replacement. Run a cycle including dryer ( that now works) and put it back together again.

Time excluding the wash cycle but including a full utility clean and silicone on a bit of trim you must pull off the get worktop out about an hour.

Hope this might help others as google tells me valve and seal faults on washer dryers are very common.

Thanks all.
 
jrudge said:
Girlfriend is having girls trip on boat so she suggested I fix the washing machine.
Click to expand...
Isn't it nice to know that our better halves are so careful about our fit, and don't let us just have useless naps and/or drink beer, instead of fixing stuff? :rolleyes:

PS: well done, anyway! :encouragement:
 
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