Want to change the engine to shaft coupling on my Yanmar, but the marina want ridiculous prices for a lift out

For me, the question is how far can the prop shaft go back before it hits the rudder? If there is no restriction then having a slipping coupling is going to make things straight forward. First extract all the bolts. Slide the shaft with coupling back.
Using longer bolts insert a spacer (Socket usually does it) on the end of the shaft and bolt coupling back on to gear box. As you tighten the bolts the shaft will be pushed out of the coupling.
First measure the length of exposed shaft to hat far it would have to go back. If there is insufficient room then the cheapest option is to remove the gearbox. Easier to do than you thing. But do this before moving the coupler on the shaft as the gearbox has to go back before it can come up.
 
If there is insufficient room then the cheapest option is to remove the gearbox. Easier to do than you think.
if small gearbox can be done single handed possibly no more than an hours work.
You might need help putting it back in, simply due to lining up splines on shaft and popping in bolts is a three handed job.
 
Assuming a 2GM20, gearbox is easy and quite light. I changed one for a Beta in a similar boat, the 29.2.
But, do check that the bolts holes are on the same PCD as the original. The new one from R&D was slightly different and I had to drill a fresh set.

Did the whole job afloat on a finger pontoon, just used the boom to crane in and out with a ratchet winch.
 
now thinking maybe i should get the boat lifted and get a new shaft...

had someone mention to me the shaft may have possibly been scored when the coupling came loose and the coupling was moving around the shaft while the shaft was turning slower due to friction in the coupling where touching. there is also the chance the shaft may have got warped when the large yacht trailer ratchet straps i had at the club once got wrapped around tight on the propeller when lauching shortly after getting the boat in 2018. So for peace of mind I thought maybe replace the shaft too but unsure on length needed.
 
I've just been through all this. A knackered Aquadrive (loose bolts) had deformed the propshaft end so new shaft required. Thrust bearing and cutless bearing also knackered. Tides Marine seal also replaced. Had to drop the rudder to get the shaft out. I haven't dared add up total cost, I'd likely burst in to tears. But including liftout/in, 5 weeks yard storage, new Aquadrive, shaft and bearings - well it adds up to a damn fine lunch!
 
i am shocked. £240 for only half an hour in the slings of the crane then £99 for every hour after, then they have the cheek to want £70 for a jetwash if i want that, yeah... right

Unfortunatley not enough room to take off the old coupling while in the water, so need to get it lifted to slide the shaft back further i think (never removed or slid the shaft back before so hopefully it does)
A couple of yards I've used would schedule you as the last lift on Friday - allow you to stay in the slings over the weekend and put you back monday - saves a lot of the cost.
 
I've just been through all this. A knackered Aquadrive (loose bolts) had deformed the propshaft end so new shaft required. Thrust bearing and cutless bearing also knackered. Tides Marine seal also replaced. Had to drop the rudder to get the shaft out. I haven't dared add up total cost, I'd likely burst in to tears. But including liftout/in, 5 weeks yard storage, new Aquadrive, shaft and bearings - well it adds up to a damn fine lunch!

yes i would have to drop the large skeg hung rudder
 
There are issues with disposing of washed off antifoul, for instance, not allowed to just drain into the sea. Everything is getting expensive

I was going to say the same thing.

When they quote they don't know how bad the hull is, which determines how long it takes. Yards here have all had to instal facilities to ensure there is no run off into the sea. They have to collect and dispose of all the fouling off the hull. All the water they use has to be filtered and allowed to sediment. They have to pay a man to run the jet wash. Pay another, or the same, man to dig out the sediment/filter trap. They provide a high pressure pump. If they do all this in the slings, normal - you tie up an expensive bit of lifting gear.


Oddly despite the bureaucratic hoops through which they, marinas, must leap - you, reading the posts, and we (in Oz) can still dry out, clean down (though we choose somewhere with very sympathetic neighbours).

I'm sympathetic to your shock and also sympathetic to the investments made by marinas - but when ever possible we dry out and put down drop sheets. I'm the first to agree you could train monkeys to clean yachts and anti foul - but we are not allowed to employ monkeys (nor child labour) .

Welcome to the third decade of the 21 st Century :(


You can do a lot of work when you dry out, that would not impact the environment. You can add hull fittings, remove, clean and paint props (though you may need 2 tides to allow the paint to harden) - you just need to be well organised - its all about planning (and the weather). It is easier with a cat - and must be slightly nerve racking when you do it the first time in a monohull.

Jonathan
 
You can slide the shaft back as for as the gland whilst in the water, why do you need to lift it?
The maximum distance is the gap between the prop and the rudder.

I think that an hour in the slings may not be long enough for this job unless you have already loosened everything and ready to go and the prop shaft is still the right length. I'd wait until I had more time. This is not a quick job IMO.

I usually go the Burnham if I need a lift out (last year for a survey as well as usual stuff). £340 for lift, jet, up to 5 days in a cradle and relaunch. Most years I suffice with a summer scrub for £120 and a quick change of the shaft anode. It can help to get a lift just before tea or lunch break.
 
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