VRS & Smart Shunt Wiring Digram - Views Please

[Andrew_Trayfoot]

HI All,

Any comments on the wiring diagram for a new VSR and Smart Shunt I am fitting this winter.
Credit to @PaulRainbow for the original version of the diagram.


Note: I have wired the inverter so that if am am running a short term heavey load, such as a 600w microwave, I can run the engive to partially feed it from the alternaror as well as the domestic bank. This would be a swich over, do the business, switch back sitaution. Probabily no more than 8 or 10 minutes max. I have this setup alraedy and it works fine...
Thanks,

Andrew

 

[PaulRainbow]

Hi Andrew, glad you found the original diagram useful.

"Domestic Electrics" the cable is coming from the wring side of the isolator, everything is permanently live. The fuse, needs to be closer to source, ie at the isolator, rated for the cable that goes to the domestic electrics.

If you move the link between the domestic and inverter isolators you could use the inverter without having the other circuits on, but either way is fine.

The fuse in the inverter supply cable is in the wrong place, all fuses need to be as close to source as possible/practical. Fit it close to the domestic batteries and it protects lots of wiring and switches. Again, rate this for the cables.

"Do i need a fuse here ?" No. You can fit a fuse next to the engine battery, if you choose to.

The mains charger is connected to the wrong side of the isolator, it needs to be connected to the battery side of the isolator, or the battery itself.

Again, rate this for the cable.

Start assist, i wouldn't bother with this, you have the emergency parallel switch, a much better way of doing it.

Smart shunt fuses, once again, these need to be close to source.

I've made a few references about to "connect to the battery", in reality, it would be much better to fit a positive busbar or two. One after the isolator for switched services, each one (except the inverter, which should be covered by the battery fuse) being fused close to the busbar. The second busbar to be fitted between the battery and the isolator for "always live" circuits, mains charger, solar controller, smartshunt, bilge pump etc.

 

[VicS]

All I have to add is that the fuse between the PV panel and the regulator is not necessary but the wiring between the regulator and the batteries should be protected by fuses close to the batteries.

 

[Andrew_Trayfoot]

Thanks both for your input, much appreciated.
Will make some changes tomorrow and post version 2....

Cheers,

Andrew

 

[lustyd]

If it's a dual sensing VSR I'd consider moving the mains charger to the house side since the engine battery should already be charged. If it's a smart charger it can then align better to the needs of the house bank before the VSR closes. Probably makes no difference in reality but was how my boat was set up and seemed a good idea.
Similarly if the PV regulator is a smart MPPT you may want to connect it only to one bank and let the VSR do the parallelling. Not sure what regulator you have there as it appears to have two positive outputs so may be either more or less clever than the ones I'm used to. If it doesn't have two isolated outputs, you have a permanent parallel cable in there!

 

[PaulRainbow]

If it's a dual sensing VSR I'd consider moving the mains charger to the house side since the engine battery should already be charged. If it's a smart charger it can then align better to the needs of the house bank before the VSR closes. Probably makes no difference in reality but was how my boat was set up and seemed a good idea.

The VSR is almost certainly a Victron Cyrix, which is dual sensing. I doubt it will make much difference where the mains charger is connected, but i'd also connect to the domestics.

Similarly if the PV regulator is a smart MPPT you may want to connect it only to one bank and let the VSR do the parallelling. Not sure what regulator you have there as it appears to have two positive outputs so may be either more or less clever than the ones I'm used to. If it doesn't have two isolated outputs, you have a permanent parallel cable in there!

I don't know of any genuine smart MPPT controllers that have two outputs. But, whatever it is it's unlikely the two outputs would not be isolated or it would be pointless having two outlets.

 

[Andrew_Trayfoot]

Yes it's a Victron Cyrix VSR.
I'll dig out the details of the pv controller later and also an updated diagram.

Question? Windlass from domestic or starter battery? Wiring to the bow is already in place...

 

[lustyd]

it's unlikely the two outputs would not be isolated or it would be pointless having two outlets.

Good point!

 

[PaulRainbow]

Yes it's a Victron Cyrix VSR.
I'll dig out the details of the pv controller later and also an updated diagram.

Question? Windlass from domestic or starter battery? Wiring to the bow is already in place...

Engine battery for me, with engine running, of course. Using the domestics can cause voltage drops that the electronics might not like.

 

[Andrew_Trayfoot]

This is the PV regulator.
Need to do some digging to find the spec though...

 

[PaulRainbow]

How much solar do you have Andrew ?

 

[VicS]

How much solar do you have Andrew ?

30W according to his schematic

 

[Andrew_Trayfoot]

Correct 30w
Boat lives on a mooring so it purpose is to keep things topped up.

 

[PaulRainbow]

30W according to his schematic

View attachment 168738

Well spotted.

In which case there's no point in thinking about a better controller, which is what i was wondering about.

 

[Andrew_Trayfoot]

latest version..
Added Windlass Solinoid

 

[PaulRainbow]

latest version..
Added Windlass Solinoid

Not working Andrew.

 

[Andrew_Trayfoot]

Ill try again,

 

[Andrew_Trayfoot]

ps if anyone is interested the drawing was done in this free tool:

Capital Electra X Zuhause

 

[PaulRainbow]

Solar controller, mains charger and VSR fuses all need to be closer to source, as close as possible. If more convenient, the domestic battery connection of the VSR could go to the new busbar.

There is no fuse between the domestic battery and the isolator, which also leaves the emergency isolator wiring unprotected. If you move the inverter fuse close to the battery, rated for the cable, it will protect all of that wiring.

I would connect the windlass to the engine battery, but always have the engine running when you use the windlass. If the domestics are a little depleted the voltage drop caused by the windlass can reset all of your delicate electronics, whereas the engine battery should always be charged.

The windlass should be protected by a thermal circuit breaker, not a fuse, again, close to the source.

 

[VicS]

If the VSR is installed as shown in the Victron manuals with only one fuse it should be positioned as close as possible to the engine start battery with a very short direct unfused connection which cannot possibly short out. The fuse then goes in the connection to the domestic battery (or bus bar). The purpose of the fuse is to prevent overloading the VSR as well as protecting the wiring and should be sized to suit the rating of the VSR fitted
Otherwise fit two fuses close to the battery connections.
Recommendations re 1 or 2 fuses varies between manufacturers