VP camshaft belts

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The camshaft belts on my VP D3 engines need changing. Unsurprisingly, Volvo Penta claim that they can only be changed by their authorised engineers as it needs specialist equipment. Has anyone had any issues as a result of having them changed by non VP engineers?
 
Volvo Penta are almost certain to recommend any engine work is completed by a VP trained engineer.
There are some independent specialists who, I expect, may be able to help if you are adverse to using a VP main dealer.
 
The "specialist equipment" is probably some tool to lock the camshaft in place while you are changing the belts.
Starting the engine with the camshaft misaligned could be eye-wateringly expensive.

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If the engine is out of the 2 year Volvo Penta "See you off the premises Guv ! " warranty, it is probably going to make no difference who fits the belts ?
Wonder if they are unique or belts merely something pressed into service from elsewhere.

Belts is belts is belts..... unless of course VP have a secret special marine quality belt developed exclusively for their engine, of which every other engine manufacturer is totally unaware ?
As for alignment, many cars have a real snakes nest of belts up front , compared to the belts on a marine engine, auto mechanic seem to manage fairly well enough.
Took one look at the belts on my V6 diesel Audi and promptly called in somebody else to do the business. :)
 
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oldgit said:
Belts is belts is belts.....
Click to expand...

I disagree .
Although I dont have any cambelts I have always used VP branded belts on my kad32's and had no issues whatsoever and have found them to be long lasting .
I have known people use alternative belts that cross reference okay for size but have failed in normal use. On comparison with the genuine belts the others may look to be less robust.
I have little doubt that Volvo penta belts are probably made in the same factory as others belts but are made to Volvo Penta specification and quality control. That is why you pay a little extra for the genuine belts. In my book the extra cost is worth it.

Other things like, for example, oil and filters I have used brands other than VP with no issues . So I am not against the use of alternative products - just selective about those products where deviation from genuine parts may not be the best plan.
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MartynG said:
I disagree .
Although I dont have any cambelts I have always used VP branded belts on my kad32's and had no issues whatsoever and have found them to be long lasting .
I have known people use alternative belts that cross reference okay for size but have failed in normal use. On comparison with the genuine belts the others may look to be less robust.
I have little doubt that Volvo penta belts are probably made in the same factory as others belts but are made to Volvo Penta specification and quality control. That is why you pay a little extra for the genuine belts. In my book the extra cost is worth it.

Other things like, for example, oil and filters I have used brands other than VP with no issues . So I am not against the use of alternative products - just selective about those products where deviation from genuine parts may not be the best plan.
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Click to expand...

Never used a genuine VP part on any VP engine yet, when there was an alternative generic part from any well respected manufacturer.
Started out with a 100 hours with 175hp VP V6 petrol in Princess 25 and put over 2000 hours on a pair of AQD40A in a Princess 33. 1000 hours on a pair of Perkins M 130 all using generic parts and nearly 100 hours on the TAMD 41B in the Princess 35 so far ..
Never ever had any belt or water/oil/air filter or any other generic component fail .
Just lucky perhaps.
However lets not mention VP or Mercruiser outdrives.

However having said that ,now need to find some wood rather urgently . :)
 
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Its not rocket science to replace the belt on a D3, easier than some cars. There are two marks to line up, one at 12 o clock on the camshaft and the same on the crank shaft, the high pressure fuel pump and water pump are not timed. The second camshaft is gear driven from the first inside the camcover so no need to worry about that one. The only thing to be aware of is the tensioner which has a pointer which has to be in one of 3 possible positions depending on engine block temp.
As always you should turn the engine by hand a couple of times after a cambelt is replaced to check there is no conflict from mistiming and the marks always come back to the right place. I can enail a picture from the manual but the text is in Swedish but I can translate it if reqd.
 
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