VP 2002 poor starting

T

Two Sheds

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My VP2002 was starting fine last year. I serviced it over the winter, including new CAV filter and fine filter, and it now takes ages to start from cold. Fine when hot though. Bleeding the fuel system seems to make no difference to the cold start time. Does this mean it is a compression problem? If so, it seems to have happened very suddenly. I have learnt from the forum that the rearmost exhaust valve suffers from proximity to the exhaust elbow, so this is a prime suspect. How do I determine whether it is a valve problem or rings?

Thanks in advance to all the stars on this forum, who are never stumped!

Martin
 
If it was starting fine from cold at the end of last season then there wouldn't be a sudden loss of compression etc over the winter. It is probably a lot colder now than it was at the end of last season so you prob need to be more 'vigorous' with the cold start procedure with lots of throttle on and a good tug on the stop handle.

When I had slow starting last season I thought the battery must be getting flat but it was OK. When I took the starter motor off the problem was the positive lead from the solenoid to the stater where the join had started to go (and eventually burnt right through). This increased the resistance and caused a huge drop off in amps reaching the starter. So check all you connections - battery terminals, battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter and make sure they are all very clean and tight (applying vaseline afterwards).

When things are warm it doesn't take much to turn it over and start but when it's cold you need all the ooomph you can get.

Good luck.
 
It's likely to be a combination of minor issues - the key ones are starter and compression. Moodysabre has covered the starter one comprehensively. On the compression side don't automatically assume the worst - rings and seats. Eliminate the simple things first like sticking exhaust valves, decompressor mechanism and leaking injector seals. If you can get the engine running give it a good hard run for at least an hour then let it cool fully and try again. These engines are always a bit grumpy about starting when they've been left for a few months!

We did have the same problem with ours and we overhauled the top end before the start of last season. This season it started very easily for the first time.
 
Just a thought.

I have a 2001 engine. I had a big problem a year or two ago after a winter lay-up.

The engineer stated that the tappets/valves probably had a coating of rust due to air getting in over the winter. This is always worse when you have fewer cylinders. In my case just one.

The problem was cured with copious WD40 spraying in the air intake. No problems since.

I now turn the engine over by hand to make sure both valves are closed before a long lay up.
 
I take it you employ the VP2000 series 'easy cold start procedure'?

If you don't it goes as follows: Switch on ignition, put throttle lever in full revs position, pull engine stop control fully out (pull it hard), allow to return to rest, return throttle lever to somewhere between tick over position and full revs. Push the starter button.

This is a recognised method that has worked for me on a VP2002 and now a VP2003. Apparently the action of pulling the stop control full out with the throttle wide open allows the pump to over fuel, dumping in a little more juice for a cold start.
 
A tip I picked up from the Westerly Owners forum: open the decompression lever and spin the engine a few times, then close the lever and try again (using cold start procedure). The theory is that the unburnt diesel intorduced into the cylinders temporarily improves the seal around the rings.

So, cold weather, no sign of springing into life, I tried it. Damn me if it didn't start with the decompression lever up. Run very rough, but fine when I put the level back down. Go figure!

Simon
 
[ QUOTE ]
Damn me if it didn't start with the decompression lever up

[/ QUOTE ] Only decompressing one cylinder then!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Isn't supposed to do both?

[/ QUOTE ] I thought it should do both but check the workshop manual. HERE

My comment was merely to explain why it started and ran (badly) on decompression. No way will it fire on a decompressed cylinder. No compression no fire with a diesel.
 
I can't tell looking at the manual. As you say, it can't be properly decompressing else it wouldn't fire. Whatever the explanation, it certainly makes cold starting easy!
 
I would like to thank all the people who gave me some good advice on filter changing, and bleeding my VP2002. After a 6 month layup I used the cold start procedure and it fired up first turn of the key. Launching tomorrow so hope it does it again.
 
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