votes please timber choice

mtb

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I'm waiting for the mill to give prices, the choice is larch scotch pine or Douglass fer.
This is for repairing the deck and handrails on Danbrit.
Oh yes does any one know where I can get galvanised iron nail,s YES I know it's impossible but I don't need thousands . Wire nails are not any use nore are tapered.

Cheers
Mick

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Forbsie

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Have you tried <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.glasgowsteelnail.com>Glasgow Steel Nail</A>?

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mtb

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cheers for that they should have what I want.
Re the timber the first yard says £226 plus vat for d/fir is this average !

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Mirelle

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For how much timber, please? If that's per cube, it's twice the price of teak!

if you can get good larch that would be my first choice, then douglas fir and scots pine very definitely last.

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mtb

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yes it would help
110ft of 7.1/2"" x 2.1/4""
50ft of 5"" x 2.1/4""
25ft of 4.1/4"" x 4.1/4""
As I understand it the timber is fresh cut.

I'm still waitng for the other yards to get back to me .
cheers
Mick

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ccscott49

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Larch first, then the douglas fir, then the scotch pine. Have you tried classic boat in Ipswich for the boat nails?

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mtb

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Re: Boat nails etc.

Thanks lads
I got the D/fir
The timber mill had Larch but it was full of knots !!
The D/Fir is nice quality and it actually appears to be the same as the original used for the hand rails. The price was £265 including the ****ing VAT
The mill is called Adcocks of Corby Glen a few miles my way from the A1. They have plenty of unseasoned timber of all types.
On close inspection today the deck is repaired with tar !! then painted with sand added then painted again. You can see the area's where the deck has damaged sections and tar was poured to fill the low points voids and splits.
At this point I don't know if I should carry on the theme (once I've renewed the bad timber) re tar and paint or go for a modern job and fibreglass the deck as I don't like fragile canvass and the constant worry of damage. What do ya fink ?

I found one type of nail with out any problem which is used for roofing , the shank has a twist along it's length. I paid £10.00 for a 100.
The gunwale's are where I need the big iron nails. One nice thing is, the nail I pulled out still has the original calking wound below the head, which is impressive for a boat built in 1942 .
also these timbers were joined to the inner decking by 1/2"" steel spike which is about a ft long and still in good condition.

I have the timber on board now covered up but with air gaps between the different sizes and will begin repairing the deck first before the gunwale's and stanchion post's which will be the hardest job .

cheers
Mick





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ccscott49

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Re: Boat nails etc.

Mick,
Dont fibreglass your decks, it will be a mistake. Fibreglass has no "give" in it and a boat of your construction will move, which will then crack the fibreglass minutely, allowing water underneath, to rot out all your new timber! Use a very good preservative on the timber first, (one thats banned will do nicely??) then seal with "Gefreys glue"?? a bit like tar, or sikaflex and paint with heavy duty Drilling Rig type deck paint, (available form Grt Yarmouth, behind the sheds!!) with kiln dryed sand in it, for antislip. IMHO of course!!

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mtb

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Re: Boat nails etc.

Colin
I knew there had to be a proper reasone for not doing it !!.
So do you know any one at GY who'l flog me the stuff cheap.

Cheers
Mick

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mtb

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Re:Nails

Yes Forbsy said try them, and I will once I know how many I need.

VEIW OF DECK 2 up.JPG

As you can see I've been getting stuck into the deck. Most of the original nails are in very good condition so I'l be able to re use them.

cheers
Mick

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Caronia

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Re:Nails

Ermm! a word of caution on re-using the nails. An old white bearded gentleman with pipe and blue smock like attire assured me when I was replacing wooden decks on eighty yeaar old Cornish Lugger that the nails compress in length and expand in width as they are secured home into the pilot holes thus forming a very tight fit. apparently they will only perform this magic trick once.

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mtb

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Re:Nails

Nope I dont agree !!
The wood is much softer than the nail's . That might be the case re copper nails but not with these proper boat nails.
It's taking a 5ft bar to lift em out they have slight grip's along the upper section which help.

Cheers
Mick

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Caronia

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Re:Nails

They were 5 inch galvanised clouts. Yep, required 5 foot crowbar to extract when mistook was made. Extracted nails roughly 4 and a half inches long. Securing 2 and a half inch Douglas Fir onto 6 by 3 inch oak beams.

nb. wonderful tip - welding gloves when countersinking the clouts, sooner or later you will miss the drift.

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mtb

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Re:To right

I wore them taking the nails out , after a while my fingers seize up because the joints cant take the pounding.
I havn't asked them yet but I expect that Glasgo nail firm to be quite expensive, how much did you pay for yours.

Cheers
Mick

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Caronia

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Re:To right

Now to make myself really popular, I bought a hundredweight of them from the barge just outside Southampton, I have forgotten the precise amount I paid for them but seem to recollect that it was in the region of forty squids. Needless to say I bought all they had, they were old stock and were very well made with big throats that secured into the pilot holes near perfectly. Unfortunately it was insufficient to do all the work I needed to do (decks and refastening topsides) so I had to source a couple of kilograms of them later. I bought them from the classic boat company or something like that up the east coast. I needed to be confined to a wheelchair for a couple of days to get over the shock of the price. Sorry to be so imprecise, I did keep all the records but sold them along with the boat a year ago.

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Sybarite

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Re:To right

This came off an American site on the types of woods to be used in boat building. It was in nice table form before but you will be able to follow the sequence of the columns.


PLATE 5-D: Wood Use & Characteristics Chart

Weight Strength Decay & Rot Resistance Fastening Ability Comments
Hardwoods
Apitong Heavy Strong Poor Good Difficult to work
Ash, white Heavy Fairly strong Poor Fair High shock resistance
Elm, rock Heavy Strong Fair Good Good for steam bending
Greenhart Very Heavy Very strong Very good Very good For heavy, durable
construction
Iroko Heavy Strong Good Good Can be used in place of
teak in many parts
Ironbark
(eucalyptus) Very Heavy Very strong Good Good For heavy, durable
construction
Mahogany,
African Medium Fairly strong Good Good
Honduras Medium Fairly strong Good Good Best of mahoganies
Philippine Medium Fairly strong Fairly good Good Use dark red variety
in boats
Oak, white Heavy Strong Good Very good Don't confuse with red oak
Okoume Light Not strong Poor Fair Suitable for light,
small boats
Teak Heavy Strong Very good Good Hard on tools,
can remain unfinished
Softwoods
Cedar,
Alaska Medium Fairly strong Good Good Heartwood & sapwood
look similar
Port Orford Light Strong Very good Good Preferred boat cedar
Western red Light Not strong Very good Fair Suitable for veneers in
cold mold planking and
for light, small boats
Douglas-fir Medium Strong Fairly good Good Use only clear, vertical
grain
Larch, Eastern Light Fairly strong Fairly good Good Traditionally used for
natural knees & stems
Larch, Western Medium Strong Fairly good Good Similar to Douglas-fir
Pine,
longleaf yellow Heavy Strong Good Very good Substitute for white oak
Spruce, Sitka Light Fairly strong Poor Fair High strength to weight
ratio

John

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mtb

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Re:To right

Handy that None of my books has a list which compares all these timbers. On the bases that the list uses I've used the right wood compared to larch.
As I've lifted the rotten teak that was used to repair the deck and with the original larch exposed you can see the problem's re knots the larch has loads where as the douglas fir has the odd one here and there.
I want to go down there today but the wind and rain are quite bad !!

Cheers
Mick

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