Volvo saildrive

[brians]

The rectangular rubber panel is coming detached from the hull in a couple of places. Can anyone recommend a suitable adhesive available in small quantities that will do the job. Volvo seem to offer a two part adhesive but at the usual extortionate cost.

 

[wiggy]

I asked the same question lady week, as advised I used Sikaflex 291i, did a great job and seems to have stuck really well.

 

[Dipper]

A long time ago, I stuck mine on with a two part Plastic Padding epoxy from Halfords. Whatever you use, rough the surfaces up first with some coarse wet and dry.

 

[nigelmercier]

Personally I would use the proper stuff: http://amzn.to/1hiVR4Z

 

[J Neeves]

Not long after we bought the boat, one fell off (and disappeared) we replaced it with an 'offset printing blanket' held on with Sikflex. It lasted about 5 years, we re-glued with Sikaflex and the one on the other side, they only lasted about 8 years. Just replaced both flanges (with offset printing blanket) used Sikaflex. We have just painted both with Velox Plus - have no idea how it will work, but nothing else has really worked anyway.

Jonathan

 

[Davegriff]

Did ours two years ago with a single large tube of clear contact adhesive from a 99p shop. Cleaned both rubber and hull thoroughly then several coats of adhesive as per pack instructions. Still stuck as well as day one. Absolutely no need for expensive or hard to remove solutions if done correctly.

 

[Daydream believer]

After 10 years & lots of attempts at getting the rubber to stay stuck ( tried the Volvo stuff plus Sika etc to no avail)i tried a different idea & it works
I cut some sponge to fit inside the void & stuck it in place with copious amounts of builders adhesive from Wickes

Unfortunately my sponge was a bit thick so it bulges out a bit but gives a fairly faired line
Surprisingly there was little weed on the sponge & it will certainly do another year for minimal cost


Unfortunately i am unable to upload a picture as I appear to have used my quota

 

[johnphilip]

The rubber seal fell off our saildrive during the first season we had the boat. The chandlery recommended Bisonite (and had some). It has been on 7 years so far and (touch wood) no sign of failing.
http://www.bison.net/en/products/647-2-components-adhesives/product/2269-power-adhesive-bisonite/

 

[Laurie]

As per other threads...Sikaflex 291. Clean/abrade degrease and use metal roller from inside to out. Bobs your Auntie Matilda's ferret........

 

[J Neeves]

I think the key, sorry about the pun, is the preparation, clean, abrade, wash with water, degrease (maybe degrease again) (I'm not sure if you should use acetone of meths?) on all surfaces.

Jonathan

 

[Daydream believer]

As per other threads...Sikaflex 291. Clean/abrade degrease and use metal roller from inside to out. Bobs your Auntie Matilda's ferret........

Or use a wallpaper roller 2 inches wide
problem is that if one pushes hard the sikaflex gets pushed out & cannot work
At least that is my theory as to why it did not work

 

[Laurie]

Or use a wallpaper roller 2 inches wide
problem is that if one pushes hard the sikaflex gets pushed out & cannot work
At least that is my theory as to why it did not work

...don't push too hard!.....

J Neeves is absolutely right, preparation is all, and it'll last years.... Its just I had not long detailed it all on another thread on the same topic: my apologies......

 

[Pavalijo]

Mine is detaching on one corner - the Volvo engineer recommended "CT1".
Not sure what that is but will be in the chandlery tomorrow to see if they haqve any!

 

[Laurie]

Mine is detaching on one corner - the Volvo engineer recommended "CT1".
Not sure what that is but will be in the chandlery tomorrow to see if they haqve any!

That too, is "good stuff" !

 

[J Neeves]

CT1, its a competitor to Sika. We gave something similar here.

Our product, in the FixTec (I think that is the spelling) do not recommend getting turps anywhere near it. It apparently leaves a film and the sealant will not then be strongly attached and do not use for cleaning (good though it might appear) it also reduces the adhesion. Clean up with soapy water. Though clean up with a saildrive gasket is not a big issue (cosmetics are low down the priority list).

Jonathan

 

[Javelin]

I usually make a copy of the seal in 5mm plywood and then cut it in half.
Clean and abrade the hull and rough up the seal contact area with 60 grit or similar.
I use Saba but Sika works as well.
Then I cut four lengths of batten and use these to push up on the plywood holding the seal in place.
Leave over night, remove ply, done.

Sometimes the rebate in the hull just isn't deep enough and the seal stands a little proud.
In this case before I start I grind/sand a 3" strip round the seal.
Once the seal is stuck up I then fair the proud edge of the seal with gelcoat repair paste, this goes off in 30 minutes or so and then can be sanded and anti-fouled.
The point being you want to remove any chance of water peeling the seal away from the hull.

 

[djrussell0]

I have had 3 goes at fitting a new seal and every time it came away. I work in car repair and restoration so bond items every day. when the new seal arrived I felt it had a high silicon feel about it and no matter how much I sanded or decreased it fell off. I do suspect that its got more silicon in than rubber so have given up and made a stainless fairing which is in 2 half's and screwed the seal lips to bridge a 20mm gap between new plate and leg. The other way I was going to do it was copy the seal in 4mm neoprene which you would have no issue bonding.



Dave