Volvo Saildrive Leg Paint Repair

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Spirit of Glenans

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Me;North County Dublin,Boat: Malahide Marina, Coun
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My Dufour Classic 30 had been in the water for the best part of 12 months when I bought her and barnacles have penetrated the paint on the saildrive leg through to bare metal in numerous places. Can anyone advise on the best repair scheme e.g. treat each patch individually or sand the whole lot back to bare metal, best primer and AF to use etc?
Also the rubber fairing where it emerges from the hull has fallen down; which adhesive is best?
 
Spirit of Glenans said:
Also the rubber fairing where it emerges from the hull has fallen down; which adhesive is best?
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Not an uncommon problem and has happened to me. My engineers say they have tried everything and currently use Bostic, but nothing seems to be guaranteed. It's worth getting tidied up because a friend on mine had to have a lift-out on a new boat because the flap interfered with the prop.
 
In my opinion it would be best to sand it all down to the metal/aluminum and then use aluminum primer followed by aluminum antifoul.

With regard to the rubber plate the surface must be abraded well before hand and then take the engineers advice with regard to adesive. We used bison brand.

Peter
 
I'd rub it back all the way as where its through to the metal it will have let water percolate in behind the rest.

Useing paints suitable for aluminium alloys

etch prime + epoxy prime x2 + topcoat x3 + antifoul

As to the rubber boot/colar I have no idea sorry:(

Neal
 
Use the correct Sikaflex primer first, then the correct Sikaflex. Most important, follow the manufacturers instructions!

Mine stayed up for 3 years before a corner started to peel off. I used the same technique for the bit and it's all still up there after 6 years.

As for the leg, sand it back to bare metal and start again, then use a recommended anti-foul.
 
Gaitor adhesive

We were advised to use a two-pack inflatable boat adhesive such as "Polymarine Inflatable boat adhesive". It has been fine for 2 years so far.
 
I don't know what my fairing piece is stuck on with, but in the 15 years I've had the boat it's shown no sign of coming loose so a long term fix is certainly possible.

On etching primers: I've sometimes had problems with these. The instructions say paint it on and wait till it turns yellow. I find sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. If the latter, what to do? Assume it hasn't worked, scrape it off and try again, or leave it and hope for the best? I suspect that temperature may have an influence. Anyone know more?
 
rosie said:
I stuck mine on in 2004 with Evostick. I had to remove it in 2011 to remove the saildrive. Adhesion was perfect & it was not easy to remove. Boat had never been out of the water.

Dave
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If you take the prop shaft off (which also lets you check the state of the seals) you can lift the leg through the gaiter without removing it.
 
Last week a Volvo Engineer said that they had tried everything and found epoxy to be the most successful glue for the gaiter.
 
savageseadog said:
The best primer is an etching epoxy one. If the other paint is well bonded just abrade a little.
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Thanks, everyone for all the feedback. Being the lazy git that I am I think I will go with Savageseadog's advice and sand back in spots. Re the combined etching and epoxy primer he suggests; it seems a good idea. I've got some of the inflatable boat adhesive as suggested by Trundletruc, so I'll use that.
If it's allowed by forum rules can anyone recommend particular brands of primer, finish and antifoul (there does'nt appear to have been any AF on the leg whatsoever!) ?
 
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