Volvo propellers can fall off!!!!!!

Bav34

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We have a Volvo saildrive on our boat.

For the uninitiated, the prop slides onto the shaft splines. Then a cone is spun on behind it and tightened by putting a screwdriver through two holes and giving it a heave with the gearbox in reverse and the prop locked with a length of wood between it and the floor. Then a bolt is put through the cone into the shaft and tightened.

I fitted it after changing the anode last April. I KNOW how much effort I put in tightening everything. A lot! Also since then we have motored probably 500 miles which has the effect of continuing the ‘tightening’ process.

However!

We were in The Morbihan. Basically rocks and very strong currents. We had moored on a buoy by Larmor-Baden. The fridge didn’t seem to keeping the food cold so I had to keep it on which was obviously draining the service battery.

To keep it charged I ran the engine for an hour a day and thereby lays the problem.

I have read for many years that you shouldn’t run a diesel for too long without a load on it. Something to do with glazing the bores???

Being on a buoy I couldn’t run ahead so I put it in reverse. Porquoi-pas? Never heard of props falling off!!! A couple of days later we cast off to go up to Vannes. Engaged gear. NOTHING! Luckily drifted onto another yacht and some passing fishy people took a line back to ‘our’ buoy.

Cutting a long story short we found a diver who not only recovered the prop. but also the very expensive cutter AND the cone ….even a plastic washer that sits between them!!! Couldn’t believe our luck. Opal in the UK had the cone kit but not the right size prop.

The only bit he couldn’t find was the bolt but after several celebratory whiskies with him and his son he nipped under the boat and fitted it all as I was adamant that the cone would hold it all together as long as I didn’t go in reverse. Made it to La Crouesty where he had arranged for a bolt to be available. What a guy!! All he wanted was 80 euros and I gave him the bottle of scotch for putting on the prop.

Anyway, although all ends well I think that you should be warned about the prop problem. It was on tight. The bolt had loctite on it. The engine was only just in gear …. not running fast. A p*ss poor bit of design as far as I am concerned. I totally accept that you don’t see hundreds of saildrive yachts floating around propless so the problem is limited I guess to the amount of time that you actually run it in reverse.

Hope this helps someone avoid the same problem. Twas a bit tense at times when the tide hit 4 knots on our buoy and I’m thinking that I might actually have to sail off to hit the mandatory rock!

Now just have to find out how to re-gas the fridge!!
 
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As I\'ve said so many times here before....

You MUST ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS use a NEW socket screw. There is a slug of locking compound in a drilling in the side of the (8mm) screw. Without this being renewed, the screw WILL loosten and you will loose your prop.

Ring Volspec if you won't take MY word for it. The Volve workshop manual is also quite specific on the matter.

You ALWAYS need a NEW socket screw (and NO locking washers)

Steve Cronin
 
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Oh yes, your fridge..

...if it has the blower type inside unit ( evaporator) then it is frosting up in warm weather that drops it's efficiency. You need to take the cover off and hit the matrix with a hairdryer to defrost it every three days to keep it working at full power. just switching it off WILL defrost it BUT all your food will have warmed up by the time all the frost has melted and run off naturally. They tell you that you have the most efficient evaporator. What they DON'T tell you is how much maintenance you need to give it.

Steve Cronin

Bav42 a/c Corfu
 

jackho

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You've got me wondering! My Volvo D30 handbook says my prop turns anti-clockwise in forward so that would suggest a tendency to slacken!!!???
 

Gypsy

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Re: Oh yes, your fridge..

Oh yes the fridge - Steve's description of the problem with that type of fridge is spot-on. I have one in my Bav44 and had the same problem. But I have an alternate solution Steve. As a live-aboard you may be interested in this, probably not so important for weekend trips.
When the thermostat switches the compressor off it also switches the internal evap fan off so there is no circulation of air over the evaporator and the ice take an age to melt whilst the rest of the "box" is getting warmer. My solution is to change the wiring connections to run the evap fan at half speed when the compressor is off and at full speed when the compressor is on. This means the fridge has more even temperature in the "box" at all times and the fan passing the air over the evap all the time means it is less likely to ice over or at worst, melts quicker. It worked well for me through 5 years in the mid to east Med.
If you would like more details PM me.
Ray
 
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