Volvo Penta D1-30 reluctant to turn on

[bobgarrett]

This is the engine with the 4 button EVC where you touch a button the rev counter display lights up, a few seconds later you get 2 beeps and you can press the starter button. At least that's what it should.
Recently touching the on button mostly does nothing. After lots of presses it finally responds then you can press the starter.
Anyone else experienced this and know how to fix it?

 

[prv]

I suppose the first check is probably to see if it's the panel or the engine. The rev counter is CAN bus, but the button unit is just four switches and four wires plus a return. So you can disconnect it at the engine end, buzz it out with a meter to see which wire is which (or there might be a diagram available somewhere if you're lucky, but I don't remember seeing one) and then see whether the switch always closes the circuit when you press it, and whether a substitute switch wired to the engine produces the same symptom.

I suppose there's also a chance that the engine is turning on fine, but the revcounter unit is either broken or not connected properly, so you never get the beeps. Maybe try starting with just the buttons, ignoring the display and buzzer? Our display unit was known knackered when we bought the boat (badly installed and full of water) but the engine still worked fine for the delivery trip until I could fit a new one.

If it's not either of those then I guess the fault is in the engine control box and I don't have any advice beyond checking all connections (including internally) and pricing up a new one.

Pete

 

[Vegable]

Have a look at this link I found when I had rev counter problems
https://www.scribd.com/mobile/doc/294209081/Volvo-Penta-d1-30b-Electrical
which is the wiring diagram for the D1-30. Keep scrolling down and having had a quick look at it just now I think you want page 29 of 54, but you can't download it without paying a subscription. But you could take notes from it.
I've got a D1-30 but mine is an ignition key panel so can't offer and further thoughts on your problem
Mike

 

[dunedin]

Not sure whether the D1 and D2 are the same, but we had similar sounding issues with a D2.
After lots of false diagnoses (and expensive parts) it turned out in our case to be just an intermittently faulty battery switch. If the Volvo panel thinks the battery power is low it fails to do anything (even when actually sufficient power to crank and start if forced manually).
So worth checking voltage at various locations in the circuits in case it is a simple issue before replacing anything

 

[Slowtack]

Bobgarrett. If you pm me you email address I can send you a D1 30 electrical manual

 

[BBerley]

Bobgarrett. If you pm me you email address I can send you a D1 30 electrical manual

Hi Slowtack: can you send that to me, too? Thanks .. rberley at comcast.net

 

[Beneteau381]

This is the engine with the 4 button EVC where you touch a button the rev counter display lights up, a few seconds later you get 2 beeps and you can press the starter button. At least that's what it should.
Recently touching the on button mostly does nothing. After lots of presses it finally responds then you can press the starter.
Anyone else experienced this and know how to fix it?

MDI box probs?

 

[bobgarrett]

Turned out to be a faulty button. We replaced the whole unit.

 

[Fish Pie]

Not sure whether the D1 and D2 are the same, but we had similar sounding issues with a D2.
After lots of false diagnoses (and expensive parts) it turned out in our case to be just an intermittently faulty battery switch. If the Volvo panel thinks the battery power is low it fails to do anything (even when actually sufficient power to crank and start if forced manually).
So worth checking voltage at various locations in the circuits in case it is a simple issue before replacing anything

Thank you so much Dunedin for this post. Volvo D2/40 with same issues. Would turn on, bleep twice, then not start and the power to the starter would go off. Got it started by hot-wiring the control box, and was prepared to do that until I found a replacement control box, until I read your post. I then tried shorting across the isolator switch and it worked fine, so now have replaced the isolator and everything is working correctly. Thanks again for your help. Much easier and cheaper than the solutions I was considering.