Volvo Penta 2040 Battery Alarm.

[DJE]

Since re-commisioning the engine we have the battery alarm coming on a few seconds after starting and staying on all the time the engine is running. But the voltmeter and ammeter on the boat's 12V panel show that it is charging normally. Any ideas?

 

[gregcope]

Since re-commisioning the engine we have the battery alarm coming on a few seconds after starting and staying on all the time the engine is running. But the voltmeter and ammeter on the boat's 12V panel show that it is charging normally. Any ideas?

You will have a large red cable and black cable connected to the batteries on the B+ and B- terminals. These will be battery voltage. The red cable goes to the starter that is then connected to the battery via a larger red cable (probably). The black will goto a engine block bolt that has a larger black cable to the batteries. Usually via a 1/2/both switch. Your batteries might be okay hence why you see 12v. If your seeing 12v with the engine running I would either surmise that the voltermeter has poor accuracy as the alternator should take the battery volts to 14v+ if the batteries are reasonably charged OR your alternator is poorly.

On the D+ terminal (top of alternator on a 2030) there is a another output which has a brown and red/blue cable. This reads the alternator output and drives the warning light / buzzer on the engine panel via the brown cable. Check this. It should be 12v+ Below 11V it will probably fire the alarm. It also provides excitation current to make the alternator start (Blue / Red via a 33ohm excitation resistor in the black box).

If you have 12.5v+ on that pin, yet the buzzer is sounding your issue is upstream of the alternator. Next check the multiconnector under the engine black box and the engine panel. Contact cleaner is useful. If you check the engine panel loom you will have a Brown wire to the block that has the warning lights. Check the voltage there. If its 12.5v+ and the panel is buzzing/alarming its probably the diode block. I have a spare (don't ask) you could try.

Does the light light as well buzzer?

If its buzzing and 11v or less, you alternator might need some attention. There are usually local (car) specialist who can check or recondition for allot less than a new one. Parts4engines do reasonable priced new ones if you need one urgently.

Hope that helps.

 

[seadog30]

We also have a 2040, the battery warning sounder come on if the engine starts and is allowed to turnover at ideling RPM immediately after starting. If we give the enging a blip in RPM within a few seconds of starting the sounder does not go off.

Good luck

 

[DJE]

Thanks. Lots to check there. The batteries are getting 14V with the engine running - I have checked this with a meter directly on the battery posts. The charge warning light starts flashing a few seconds after starting the engine and the alarm sounds. I can cancel the audible alarm with the test button but the light keeps flashing.

 

[thhaar]

I realize this is an old topic, but I'd like to know if the issue was resolved and how. I'm experiencing the exact same issue with the VP MD2030 on my 2003 Etap 37s. I bought a replacement engine control panel, but that didn't change a thing (other than make the flashing lights easier to see, because of the nice LEDs).

Thanks for any additional insights.
Thomas

 

[DJE]

I've had a lot of trouble with the panel because - I believe - the previous owners didn't have a wheel cover and the panel was out in the weather for 15 years. The alarms were all unreliable and the starter key switch occasionally failed. I took the panel home, dismantled it, dried it out thoroughly, and cleaned all the connectors and contacts. (The bulb holders for the warning lights were particularly dirty. Think I eventually replaced the alarm module for a new one with LEDs but I can't remember now.) I also dismantled, cleaned, and reassembled all the connections on the back of the alternator. I had to buy a new plastic face plate for the panel as the old one was badly cracked around the bolt holes so I couldn't get a good seal against the wheel pedestal. Carefully re-assembled it and sealed it to the pedestal and it has been mostly Ok since. We still have to blip the throttle after starting or the charge alarm will sound. The engine doesn't seem to charge at idle speed.
A whole new control panel must have cost a fortune! I would expect that to cure the problem. Check and clean the alternator connections the multi-pin plugs in the wiring harness, and the connections to the relays on the side of the engine.

 

[thhaar]

A whole new control panel must have cost a fortune! I would expect that to cure the problem. Check and clean the alternator connections the multi-pin plugs in the wiring harness, and the connections to the relays on the side of the engine.

I apologize for my incorrect terminology. I only replaced the alarm control module, not the entire panel. I greatly appreciate your response and suggestions. With sailing season coming to a close here in the Northeast USA, I might need to address this in the off-season as I get the boat ready for next year.

 

[gregcope]

@thharr how is the engine negative cable?

mine was horrible. I would, in retrospect, change that first. Might look okay, but might offer variable resistance under load.

 

[thhaar]

@thhaar how is the engine negative cable?

mine was horrible. I would, in retrospect, change that first. Might look okay, but might offer variable resistance under load.

A friend suggested that I check all grounds, which I did. I removed and cleaned them, despite the fact that all looked pretty good.
I appreciate your input.

Thomas

 

[gregcope]

I did that to mine. The issue was most probably internal corrosion within the cable.

Cleaning the ring terminals does not address this.

mine was corroded as the cable, being the lowest thing has been flooded at least twice in the past and water / moisture has creeped up the cable and corroded the wire.

 

[thhaar]

I did that to mine. The issue was most probably internal corrosion within the cable.

Cleaning the ring terminals does not address this.

mine was corroded as the cable, being the lowest thing has been flooded at least twice in the past and water / moisture has creeped up the cable and corroded the wire.

Very good to know. I'll do the same. It certainly can't hurt.

 

[gregcope]

A give away is if the copper cable is black with corrosion and not shiny red copper colour or shiny tinned silver.