Volvo MD2B with MS reverse gear oil change?

Akestor

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It seems impossible to undo the drain screw of the reverse gear which has seperate oil compartment( no room for any tool..) . So i just changed the main oil of the engine and added some to the reverse gear without draining it. I suppose that since this oil isnt under high temperature its ok to just add without changing it? Could that cause any problems in the future?
 
It seems impossible to undo the drain screw of the reverse gear which has seperate oil compartment( no room for any tool..) . So i just changed the main oil of the engine and added some to the reverse gear without draining it. I suppose that since this oil isnt under high temperature its ok to just add without changing it? Could that cause any problems in the future?

Dont over fill the gear box by adding oil when its not required!

Otherwise change the oil using a pump or a vacuum extractor at frequency between when you feel like it and never.
 
Last edited:
Dont over fill the gear box by adding oil when its not required!

Other wise change the oil using a pump or a vacuum extractor at frequency between when you feel like it and never.

Otherwise

Thanks Vic i just added the required quantity as the level was slightly bellow the lowest line at the dipstick.
 
Just another question regarding the crackcase main oil.

There is a male thread fitting at the bottom with a tap, where i drained the oil but mess the bildge beacuse half of it was split down ( i need to be a yoga guru to put my hands under there..haha)

I thought of screwing a simple seacock on this fitting instead of the tap , with a long pipe coming in a comfortable place where i can drain the oil in a cannister without messing the world.
Do you think the seacock might open with the engine vibration?

Ps, i can use a pump from the dipstick hole( front of the crankcase), but as the engine is inclined towards the stern the oil at the back of the crankcase will not be sucked. ( drain hole is excaclty at the lowest cranckcase area though)
 
Ps, i can use a pump from the dipstick hole( front of the crankcase), but as the engine is inclined towards the stern the oil at the back of the crankcase will not be sucked. ( drain hole is excaclty at the lowest cranckcase area though)

I don't think it's the end of the world if all the old oil isn't removed. I've always used a vacuum pump through the dipstick hole, it's probably the cleanest way of changing the oil.
 
Just another question regarding the crackcase main oil.

There is a male thread fitting at the bottom with a tap, where i drained the oil but mess the bildge beacuse half of it was split down ( i need to be a yoga guru to put my hands under there..haha)

I thought of screwing a simple seacock on this fitting instead of the tap , with a long pipe coming in a comfortable place where i can drain the oil in a cannister without messing the world.
Do you think the seacock might open with the engine vibration?

Ps, i can use a pump from the dipstick hole( front of the crankcase), but as the engine is inclined towards the stern the oil at the back of the crankcase will not be sucked. ( drain hole is excaclty at the lowest cranckcase area though)

We use to remove the whole coarse strainer assembly, not just the dipstick, pump out as much as possible and then drain the remainder into a shallow vessel via the sump drain but the sump drain had just a simple hex headed plug screwed into it, No "tap"
 
We use to remove the whole coarse strainer assembly, not just the dipstick, pump out as much as possible and then drain the remainder into a shallow vessel via the sump drain but the sump drain had just a simple hex headed plug screwed into it, No "tap"

error... with "tap" i mean "plug". I have a bronze female plug there.

Thank you for your replies, that was the first 20 hour oil change after restoring the engine. Works as a clock so far!
 
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