Volvo D4 crankcase vent filter change interval

[AllanG]

Looking back at the service record for the Volvo D4 engine in my recently purchased boat, I notice that the crankcase vent filter (Volvo part No. 3584145) hasn't been changed every year as recommended in the Operator's Manual.

As this is a very expensive filter, is it possible to inspect and clean the filter to extend it's lifetime, or do you religiously change it annually?

Allan

 

[spannerman]

I can't see any way to clean it as its made of very thin porous paper and will most likely tear if you try.
Its worth changing as they do get soggy with oil and eventually will block which means then your crankcase can't breathe properly, so if there is any pressure it will find another way out, usually resulting in a leaking seal somewhere, i.e. rearmain or front pulley which will cost a lot more than the filter did.

 

[David2452]

Mine is made from fine gause and I just swill it in paraffin and allow to dry, my local Volvo dealer told me to do this and only replace when it started to get manky when I included one in the parts list when I started servicing myself after the warranty expired. All that said the service schedule does call for anual replacement.

 

[David of Essex]

Recently purchased a engine service kit from volspec for Volo D4 260hp. After returning home I checked the parts from last year and found the crankcase breather or filter insert was not included. I phoned volspec to be told that it is now 350 hours or 3 years before changing.
David

 

[volvopaul]

If thats the case volvo keep changing there minds about service items.

The latest belts are made from a different material and no longer have to be changed every year or when the bilge area starts to get covered in black rubber dust.

The breather filter is a tricky one, on a boat thats used on the coast at high rpm the filter blocks up after a years use where on th river at just above idle the filter does not get soaked up with oil.

Either way skipping service items on an engine that cost upwards of 20k is plain stupid, if the rear crank seal fails for ure on any sterndrive boat its engine out, if you own say a sealine or type of boat thats got grp mouldings covering the engine hatch area your on for a big bill from a shipwright and thats before the likes of me can get in there with the tools to disconnect the engine, along with a lift out and contactors crane or hiab to get the lump out, so whats the point in saving a few quid?

 

[David2452]

Oh bum, should I replace it yearly instead of just swilling it out then Paul?