Volvo D1-30 winterising, antifreeze on seawater side

[jlavery]

Hi all,
I've got a D1-30 and a very experienced marine engineer friend has recommended flushing the seawater side with 30% antifreeze (among other tasks).

Sounds a good idea - but is there a best technique for doing this now that the boat's out of the water and I can't run the engine? Raw water inlet into a bucket?

James

 

[Graham376]

Hi all,
I've got a D1-30 and a very experienced marine engineer friend has recommended flushing the seawater side with 30% antifreeze (among other tasks).

Sounds a good idea - but is there a best technique for doing this now that the boat's out of the water and I can't run the engine? Raw water inlet into a bucket?

James

The bucket works well, just run the engine until you see the coloured water appear from exhaust. Alternative, just pour the mix into the raw water filter.

 

[Tranona]

If you have a Vetus type filter above the waterline then close the seacock and introduce your water/fluid there are th pemp will circulate it. However there really is no need as you can drain the system apart from the waterlock by taking the pump impeller out. There is an argument for having antifreeze in the waterlock (if it cannot be drained) if the boat is stored in an exposed location where there are likely to be long periods of strong cold winds or below freezing air temperatures.

 

[jlavery]

Thanks for the suggestions.

Forgot to say, saildrive with no filter. So I think hose from pump inlet to bucket will do it. Logic of flushing is to reduce corrosion in heat exchanger from having salt water sitting there. (Yes, of course it's got salt water the rest of the year, but why not reduce the chances during the winter?)

 

[Tranona]

Don't think there is much danger of corrosion in the HE, and you can drain it anyway by taking the impeller out.

 

[Laser310]

The bucket works well, just run the engine until you see the coloured water appear from exhaust. Alternative, just pour the mix into the raw water filter.

i do both

i like to use the engine to circulate the fluid, because then i know it's completely replaced the sea water in the system.

but then when i pull the hose out of the bucket, i lose a bit of the fluid before i manage to get the hose reattached to the through hull.

So, I top it off at the filter.

the hard part is remembering, in the spring, that i closed the raw water sea cock in the fall....

 

[fastjedi]

I run 2 litres of 30 percent antifreeze through my D1-30. I take the bottom hose off the seawater pump and use a metre of 19mm hose into a bucket. Run the engine for about 15 secs, then remove the impellor.

 

[westernman]

Don't think there is much danger of corrosion in the HE, and you can drain it anyway by taking the impeller out.

I beg to differ.

Heat exchanger cores often rot and are fairly pricy to replace.
I think the OP's friend is right.

 

[Tranona]

I beg to differ.

Heat exchanger cores often rot and are fairly pricy to replace.
I think the OP's friend is right.

Not the experience with Volvo. Rarely a problem with the core or the main body, but with the interface between the aluminium body and the cast iron exhaust elbow. Leaving antifreeze in the tubes will do nothing for this.

My 2030 spent 15 years without AF in the raw water system and a later D1 30 (same as the OPs) 6 years in commission in the water.

 

[ChromeDome]

The cost of running anti-freeze through, to get the benefits (including peace of mind), is a fraction of any repair cost.

If you close the seacock before, then just open it again after the procedure.

Personally, I change the engine coolant and use the drained amount to run through the sea-water side. Just because I am frugal when it has no disadvantages ?

 

[jlavery]

Yes, probably not strictly necessary. But, as my friend (who has installed and worked on more marine engines than I've had hot dinners) said, "for mental insurance".

 

[mattnj]

Totally unnecessary....find something else to maintain/fix...
Just pulled a 23year old HE apart for first time....it's the joint/seals between them that's the issue ... Core is totally fine. AF wouldn't have made any difference

 

[VicS]

Yes, probably not strictly necessary. But, as my friend (who has installed and worked on more marine engines than I've had hot dinners) said, "for mental insurance".

The best reason that I can find is that the owners manual tells you to do this if laying up ashore.

 

[jlavery]

The best reason that I can find is that the owners manual tells you to do this if laying up ashore.

Well that'd be quite a good reason, thanks.

 

[mattnj]

The best reason that I can find is that the owners manual tells you to do this if laying up ashore.

I'm assuming they say that assuming you have fresh water in there that will freeze....or if somewhere really cold... Surely if it's salty it's not going to freeze so not a problem?
EDIT: didnt realise salt water froze at such a similar temp...ignore that!

 

[Refueler]

My Perkins gets raw water via a typical seacock with vertical coarse filter. I close the valve ... unscrew the top and remove the filter.

I have a large coke bottle cut in half ... I place the open neck end into the filter body .... being vertical - bottle stays in ...

Start engine .... pour in Antifreeze to bottle making sure enough rate for engine to suck it up ...... I live where winter drops to -30C or lower ... so I use neat AF ..... but in UK - I used diluted AF due to lower winter temps.

What volume ? My 4-107 is a moderate sized 4 cyl raw water cooled beast - so I pass at least 10ltrs through her .... once all poured in ... I leave engine to run for a VERY SHORT 20 secs or so - then stop engine. Refit filter / top etc.
If boat is out of water ......... I open seacock ...
If boat still afloat for winter ..... seacock stays closed.

I also put about 1 litre via the Baby Blake Loo !!

 

[BabaYaga]

Surely if it's salty it's not going to freeze so not a problem?

Salty sea water will freeze all right, only at a slightly lower temperature than fresh water.
For water holding 32 per mille, the freezing point is - 1.7 degrees C.

 

[Refueler]

Thanks for the suggestions.

Forgot to say, saildrive with no filter. So I think hose from pump inlet to bucket will do it. Logic of flushing is to reduce corrosion in heat exchanger from having salt water sitting there. (Yes, of course it's got salt water the rest of the year, but why not reduce the chances during the winter?)

The difference is when in use - water is flowing and minimal air. During winter - water is static in there and likely significantly more air (oxygen) for corrosion ...

AF not only prevents freezing - but also has 'cleaners / anti corrosion' agents in.

 

[Refueler]

I beg to differ.

Heat exchanger cores often rot and are fairly pricy to replace.
I think the OP's friend is right.

Correct ... my 4-99 HE core was literally powder when it was removed.

My Gearbox oil cooler core also fell apart due corrosion ...

The cost of replacing engine HE ..... made me change to Raw Water cooling ...

The Gearbox cooler - luckily a pal of mine is a Metals Master and he rebuilt a better core in the old 'casing' .... his words when he understood what water was passing through ... "You're kidding !! SALTWATER ???? "

 

[Rafiki]

If your boat is out of the water for the winter, then leave all seacocks OPEN. This avoids trapping water in the "ball" of a quarter-turn ball valve and later freezing and splitting the body ...... happened to me during a recent winter ashore UK East Coast, the problem is that a small crack is very difficult to see, but the slow filling of the bilges once lifted back into the water in the spring is a bit more obvious !!