Volvo D1-30 coolant overflow [cold engine]

[jim5099]

I checked my VP D1-30 after the recent cold spell and found that about 200mls of green coolant had overflowed from the coolant expansion tank cap and collected in the bilge. The cap was on tight. The expansion tank was obviously overfull and had to be partially drained to bring the level down to the 'Max' mark. The boat is on a marina in the Irish Sea. The engine had not been run since winterising back in October. The engine is 5 years old with about 600 hours up.

I have since run the engine with no obvious ill effects.

Any ideas as to how this can occur ?

 

[Neeves]

Sorry,

But I cannot help

but, again do note that the 'D' series is meant to be filled with a proprietary Volvo antifreeze. Now whether Volvo AF is any different to 'normal' AF, I simply don't know. I'm trying not to be cynical - just a word of caution and hopefully someone considerably more knowledgable of either or both AF and the 'D series will comment.

Jonathan

 

[jim5099]

It was originally filled with green volvo antifreeze by a Volvo agent. The engine still contains the original coolant from commissioning. In the 5 years since, the coolant has never needed topping up and is unchanged.

 

[duncan99210]

Does the boat have a calorifier connected to the engine? Was the water system turned on when you went to the boat? We had a problem with the engine coolant coil developing a pinhole leak which forced fresh water into the coolant link, leading to coolant being dumped from the engine. Otherwise, I can't offer an explanation.

 

[VicS]

Sorry,

But I cannot help

but, again do note that the 'D' series is meant to be filled with a proprietary Volvo antifreeze. Now whether Volvo AF is any different to 'normal' AF, I simply don't know. I'm trying not to be cynical - just a word of caution and hopefully someone considerably more knowledgable of either or both AF and the 'D series will comment.

Jonathan

It was originally filled with green volvo antifreeze by a Volvo agent. The engine still contains the original coolant from commissioning. In the 5 years since, the coolant has never needed topping up and is unchanged.

I have no suggestions to make about the "problem" regarding the loss of coolant during the winter. If the engine has not been run I don't see that it could be the result of raw water entering the cooling system. Perhaps water from the domestic water system has entered via a calorifier leak but again it seems very unlikely. Coolant should not have been lost via the expansion tank cap unless the system is over pressurised .

However the antifreeze, Green in earlier versions of the engine, should be changed every two years. The VCS Yellow coolant, which is used by later versions, in theory has a longer life but should also l be changed every 2 years due to the risk of salt water contamination.

You should continue to use the same type of antifreeze as used originally and never mix the two types.

If the antifreeze is changed from Green to Yellow the cooling system must be chemically cleaned ( with oxalic acid) . VP dealers charge an arm and a leg for doing this!

The heat exchanger should be removed and cleaned every 5 years

You can use a non Volvo antifreeze. Use the "conventional type ", usually blue or green, sold for older engines in place of VP green and OAT/ long life type ( usually red or yellow) in place of VCS Yellow coolant

 

[vyv_cox]

Does the boat have a calorifier connected to the engine? Was the water system turned on when you went to the boat? We had a problem with the engine coolant coil developing a pinhole leak which forced fresh water into the coolant link, leading to coolant being dumped from the engine. Otherwise, I can't offer an explanation.

Yes, this is the logical explanation. The domestic fresh water pressure is a couple of bars, easily enough to blow coolant from the engine if the heating tube in the calorifier is punctured. Carmel2 had this problem, eventually needing a new calorifier. I wrote an article on it for PBO a few years ago.

 

[jim5099]

By way of conclusion, the calorifier was pressure tested which revealed that the heating coil was leaking. Most likely, this was due to frost damage during the cold spell. This allowed pressurised fresh water to blow into the coolant circuit. New calorifier required, etc. Thanks for all replies.