Volvo 2010 fuel problem

Elbows

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Hello All,

Tried to start my Volvo 2010 after it had been sitting for a couple of months and it turned over fine but wouldn't start. I've got a squeezy bulb primer fitted between the tank and first stage filter, but when I tried to squeeze it it felt solid as though there was a blockage downstream. I wanted to change the leak-prone CAV filter for a Racor unit anyway so I went ahead and did that along with new fuel pipes, and I pulled the bulb apart and checked it was OK. I also changed the engine mounted filter and before screwing on the new one I pumped some fuel through to make sure everything was clear up to that point. All OK.

I fitted the new engine filter and I could now squeeze the bulb, although it took quite a lot of pressure. Might just be my imagination but I think it used to be easier to pump in the past. However after some pumping I could hear fuel trickling back into the tank from the return line. Engine still wouldn't start though.

I disconnected the rubber pipe which connects the engine filter to the injection pump and turned the engine over on the starter, and it did pump fuel through slowly. Not sure how fast it's supposed to pump but I'm guessing that it won't be much at cranking speed.

So presumably there is a problem with either the injection pump or the injectors. I haven't worked on diesel engines before so is there any particular way I should approach it or anything to look out for? Any advice would be much appreciated!

PS
One slight oddity is that the hand primer on the fuel pump appears to be seized. Don't know whether that has any bearing on things or even whether it's recent as I've always used the bulb primer.
 

RichardS

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It very much against the forum ethics, but I would try starting with Easy Start/WD40 into the intake. You might well find that a quick burst of combustion solves the problem but, if it doesn't, then you know the problem is deffo fuelling and can eliminate everything else. :)

Richard
 

Neeves

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I don't know the 2010 but the 2020. Are you sure your glow plug is connected. The 2020 are notorious for the relay connection to be poor and if the relay is not functioning the engine will turn over (and after a few attempts flatten your battery, but not fire. If the 2010 has the same electronic box as the 2020 check the relay, swap them round. If the box is not the same, or absent - ignore me :)

Just trying to be helpful

Jonathan
 

grafozz

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I have MD 2010 engines , try using the lift pump to bring your fuel to the injectors , its what it is is there for , the fuel bulb / hose could be suspect too , I have seen the inner walls of old hose collapsing in and restricting fuel supply .
 

grafozz

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Ok , well if the lift pump ( hand primer ) is seized then it could restrict fuel flow to the injector pump , it is worth removing it , I know its tricky , but it is an integral part of the fuel supply .
 

Elbows

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Had another go today. The glow plugs are drawing lots of current so they seem to be OK. The fuel seems to be getting through as far as the injectors so I disassembled them to make sure they weren't blocked and they were spotless inside. I could see into the cylinders and they were wet with fuel from my previous starting attempt, although it was also quite sooty inside. After reassembling everything I tried the WD40 trick squirted into the intake and still nothing. Not even a single fire. Lots of grunt from the batteries as I can link the house and start batteries together.

I'm beginning to think it might be lack of compression as I can't imagine what else it might be. Looking back I realise that the engine was getting slightly more reluctant to start from cold over last season, although once it was running it was fine and wasn't producing noticeable amounts of smoke. It does feel as though there's reasonable compression when turning the engine over by hand, but that's not exactly a precise measurement. I took the rocker cover off and there's no sign of the valves sticking. Could be stuck piston rings I suppose.

Unless anybody's got any other ideas I'll try to get hold of a compression tester next.
 

Plum

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Had another go today. The glow plugs are drawing lots of current so they seem to be OK. The fuel seems to be getting through as far as the injectors so I disassembled them to make sure they weren't blocked and they were spotless inside. I could see into the cylinders and they were wet with fuel from my previous starting attempt, although it was also quite sooty inside. After reassembling everything I tried the WD40 trick squirted into the intake and still nothing. Not even a single fire. Lots of grunt from the batteries as I can link the house and start batteries together.

I'm beginning to think it might be lack of compression as I can't imagine what else it might be. Looking back I realise that the engine was getting slightly more reluctant to start from cold over last season, although once it was running it was fine and wasn't producing noticeable amounts of smoke. It does feel as though there's reasonable compression when turning the engine over by hand, but that's not exactly a precise measurement. I took the rocker cover off and there's no sign of the valves sticking. Could be stuck piston rings I suppose.

Unless anybody's got any other ideas I'll try to get hold of a compression tester next.

Just a few thoughts. I did not know WD40 could be used to assist starting (isn't the propellant CO2 so not combustible?) but agree to try easystart. Do you have a decompression lever for hand starting? Have you double checked the stop control is returning fully to the run position?

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 

Elbows

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Just a few thoughts. I did not know WD40 could be used to assist starting (isn't the propellant CO2 so not combustible?) but agree to try easystart. Do you have a decompression lever for hand starting? Have you double checked the stop control is returning fully to the run position?]

Thanks for the suggestions. As I understand it WD40 is mostly paraffin. I've heard before of it being used for starting but I'd be interested to hear from anybody who can confirm that it definitely does work.

There's no hand starting option on these engines and no decompression lever. I just turned the crankshaft pulley by hand to feel for compression.

Yes, I checked that the stop control is in the correct position at the engine end.
 

VicS

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Thanks for the suggestions. As I understand it WD40 is mostly paraffin. I've heard before of it being used for starting but I'd be interested to hear from anybody who can confirm that it definitely does work.

There's no hand starting option on these engines and no decompression lever. I just turned the crankshaft pulley by hand to feel for compression.

Yes, I checked that the stop control is in the correct position at the engine end.

Something more similar to white spirit I think you will find . The propellant was a hydrocarbon gas ( methane ?? ) at one time but neither of these, nor paraffin, will ignite more easily than diesel.

Personally I would check each of the glow plugs because I've had quite bit of trouble with them failing.
 

PaulRainbow

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Something more similar to white spirit I think you will find . The propellant was a hydrocarbon gas ( methane ?? ) at one time but neither of these, nor paraffin, will ignite more easily than diesel.

Personally I would check each of the glow plugs because I've had quite bit of trouble with them failing.

It doesn't need to ignite more easily than diesel. It just needs to able to ignite to prove whether it's a fuel delivery problem or something else, that's the point RichardS was making.
 

Elbows

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It doesn't need to ignite more easily than diesel. It just needs to able to ignite to prove whether it's a fuel delivery problem or something else, that's the point RichardS was making.

That's what I took it to mean too. The fact that it won't even fire once on either cylinder suggests that there's something else at fault. I've ordered some Easy Start so I'll try that anyway before I do anything else. I've also ordered a compression tester so at least I'll know whether or not lack of compression is the problem.
 

PaulRainbow

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That's what I took it to mean too. The fact that it won't even fire once on either cylinder suggests that there's something else at fault. I've ordered some Easy Start so I'll try that anyway before I do anything else. I've also ordered a compression tester so at least I'll know whether or not lack of compression is the problem.

Both of those seem like sensible ways forward to me. :encouragement:
 

RichardS

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just check the plumbing on the racor is the correct way around as there is a one way valve in there.

I think you'll find that the ball valve in the Racor will allow fuel to pass through to the engine whichever way you install it. If it's installed the wrong way around it will also allow fuel to drain back from the filter chamber to the glass bowl but that's not a big issue.

Richard
 

Elbows

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I tried the Easy Start and it was just the same, not even a single fire.

I could only test the compression of one cylinder as the only adaptor which would fit was in the glowplug port of No. 2 cylinder, but that confirmed my suspicions. Pressure should have been 355 psi according to the manual but it only reached 200 psi. I poured a little oil into the cylinder to improve the piston ring seal and tried again and achieved 300 psi. So I reckon it's gummed-up piston rings.

And now the real fun starts. I'm hoping that I can get the sump pan off to get at the connecting rod bolts with the engine in situ. There is enough room to lift the engine if necessary but I'd really rather avoid that if possible.
 
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