VOLVO 2003T PROBLEMS

[Zed Nivel]

I have a 15 yo VOLVO 2003T in a Bavaria 40 bought within the last 10 months. Previous owner had had her lying on the hard for couple of years - in the Med.


Various problems have appeared this is one unsolved;
The Volvo is cooled by 2 systems whereof 1 is a closed circuit also warming tap water. This system has got its own pump ( not the ordinary impeller)

It will get hot when run over 1600 rph - eg it alarms for hot. When I look into the matter I´ve found that if you want to change (because there are no spare kits!) this circuit pump there are none in store! All great ingeniours out there -- surely someone has replaced this pump already -- mayby an electrical external-on-the-hose-system?
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[Bilgediver]

Firstly double check it is really hot...IE not a false alarm...Too hot to touch for more then a second or so..

This cooling circuit is cooled by a salt water system and cooler/heat exchanger. Make sure the heat exchanger is clean and no blocked tubes, also make sure the filter is clean and that there is a good flow of water from the over board discharge when the engine is running.

Some Volvo heat exchangers are 4 pass.. IE the water enters one end goes to the other, then returns to the inlet end and makes another journey to the blank end and back. It is only correctly configured if the end covers are correctly fitted. Is it possible yours is such. Looking at the end covers to see how they are constructed indicates this..If the blank end is split into two segments internally it is probably 4 pass and if just one chamber two pass.

John

 

[pvb]

Try these first....

Hi Zed, I also have a 15 year old 2003T. The circulation pump for the fresh-water cooling is a simple centrifugal design, like you'd find on a car engine. I'd think it's unlikely to be the cause of your overheating problem.

More likely causes would be a faulty thermostat or a partially blocked heat exchanger. The thermostat is easy to check; it should start to open at 74 deg and be fully open at 87 deg. Checking the heat exchanger is a bigger job, but worth doing before you consider replacing the pump.

You can download a 2003T workshop manual from here - there's a general description of the fresh-water cooling system on page 27. You can also download a 2003T parts manual from here - see page 30 for an exploded drawing of the heat exchanger. There's also an exploded drawing of the circulation pump on page 28, and you'll see from the parts list on page 27 that there's a repair kit listed for the pump.

Hope this helps.

 

[gerryl]

Another really common overheating problem is caused by a blockage in the exhaust elbow. It's realatively easy to check by dissconecting the exhaust hose and undoing the 4 bolts holding it to the block. hold it under the tap/hose to check the flow and examine the input port for corrosion/blockage. To clear, use either sulphuric acid or 'Brick cleaner' from your local DIY shop.

Hope this helps.

 

[Zed Nivel]

Thank you very much for taking your time!

Really hot -- to tuch - do you mean the engine mass or the exhaust water coming out with smoke?
The flow of water is hard to determine - looks fine maybe - even if the neighbours boat with a similar size Yanmar seems to produce more H2O.

Interesting with the chambers - I will go down to Med soon and have a look. Maybe it is easy to inspect via one gable?
Regards

 

[Sui Generis]

I recommend you get an infra-red thermometer (about £25 from Maplins I think). You just point the laser sight at the object that you want to measure the temperature of, and it tells you. With one of those you can work your way round the engine and the cooling system and hopefully track down where the problem lies.

Another thought; I once came across a 2003 that for some reason had an airlock in the calorifier.

 

[Zed Nivel]

Re: Try these first....

Hi PVB and a lot of thanks to you.
These catalouges are really a help. I managed to save one in format pdf - the other I just had to print off the web.
I came across a spare kit for the circ pump after all -- for only 1150 SEK (and a new but not original for 8000 SEK). But as you say - is it likely? I will first check out the other things.
Regards!!

 

[Zed Nivel]

Hi RobGH and thank u very much!!
I was today told by my supplier to get an oven (meat) thermometer but this is a better advice. Is 120 degree C about right as peak top?
The airlock I already tried out.
Regards

 

[Sui Generis]

I would be concerned at anything over about 105 degrees.

Good luck!

Rob

 

[wragges]

Re: VOLVO 2003 OVER HEAT PROBLEM

I have just purchased my boat (Westerly Seahawk 34) with a Volvo penta MD 2003 and had an overheat problem within 1 day of getting her in the water.

I therefore stipped and tested the thermostat, pipework, calorifier, raw water circuit and pump, and then under the 'advice' of a Volvo engineer I removed and checked the heat exchanger/stack. Still no fault found.

However, when I finally got around to removing the circulation pump I found that the bottom inlet (coming back to the pump from the stack) was completely clogged up with a combination of limescale/calcilum/zinc. The plug in the pipe was set rock solid and had to be pushed out with a strong screw driver. I then stripped the pump, cleaned it and replaced all the rubber seals (pennies but very important) and now all is well again!!!

Moral of the story....look in the place you think of last, that is where the problem lies!

 

[Zed Nivel]

Hi,
I have since last summer solved the problem. In my case it was a combination of the following;
1. a plastic insert put into the water pipe exiting the turbo had moved when it comes to a junction/ a “T”. This insert has a hole smaller than the pipe diameter reducing flow into Turbo. Now that it moved - it moved into the “T” reducing also the saltwater that should go freely in the other direction. I forced it back with a round bar and hammer and slightly deformed the pipe (careful!) in order to stop another displacement.
2. The alloy U-pipe for exhaust where salt water cooles the fumes fwd to outlet in sea… this U-pipe was full of dirt and had to be heated in order to set the inner ss pipe free.
These 2 things made it.
Happy New Year 2007!
Zed

 

[Zed Nivel]

Re: VOLVO 2003 OVER HEAT PROBLEM

Hi,
Like you I have looked into every corner in the system but found no impeller parts in spite a few have bursted….
I have since last summer solved the problem. In my case it was a combination of the following;
1. a plastic insert put into the water pipe exiting the turbo had moved when it comes to a junction/ a “T”. This insert has a hole smaller than the pipe diameter reducing flow into Turbo. Now that it moved - it moved into the “T” reducing also the saltwater that should go freely in the other direction. I forced it back with a round bar and hammer and slightly deformed the pipe (careful!) in order to stop another displacement.
2. The alloy U-pipe for exhaust where salt water cooles the fumes fwd to outlet in sea… this U-pipe was full of dirt and had to be heated in order to set the inner ss pipe free.
These 2 things made it.
Happy New Year 2007!
Zed