Volvo 2002 - Oil pressure sender mount broken

[flyingscampi]

The alternator pivot bolt worked loose dropping the alternator onto the oil pressure sender, breaking it and causing an oil pressure warning.

I bought a replacement oil pressure sender but when I attempted to remove the old sender, the back of the casting (that the sender screws into) broke off in two pieces.

After breaking open the emergency tobacco ration, I discovered that the broken part is a 'Timing Gear Casing' (Part: 860546) and a new one matches Tamara Ecclestone's annual shoe budget.

I'm just wondering what my options are? If I remove the casing, can it be repaired? Or maybe a new mounting could be attached to the original casing?

Is there a good source for someone who could supply a used casing?

The engine is in good condition for it's age so I don't really want to consider changing it.

Thanks for any help.

 

[VicS]

Is it metal . If so and there are decent sized surfaces to join ... JB Weld...... it's a metal filled epoxy ... Seems very popular in the US in fact reading some of the forums you get the impression that it holds half of N America together.

You'd need to get the surfaces to be joined absolutely free of oil.

http://www.jb-weld.co.uk/

 

[flyingscampi]

Thanks for the tip Vic, I believe the casting to be Aluminium or some kind of light alloy.

 

[flyingscampi]

This is a link to a diagram showing the casing:

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7726000-21-11585.aspx

And here are a couple of pictures

 

[VicS]

There's plenty of surface to join.

holding it all in place while an adhesive cures will not be easy. I wonder if anyone can suggest a "super glue" that will set quickly.

cleaning the thread may be a problem but perhaps very lightly grease the threads on the sender and assemble it around that

if its a tapered thread that will make things difficult

Failure in service would be a serious matter

 

[Lakesailor]

Having just re-done a pressure sender union I would say that all the senders I came across are either NPT or BSPT which are both tapered. That may explain the cracking of the boss.

As the boss is on the filter mount it may be that welding will not distort the casting so taking it to a proficient alloy welder could get a result. I would imagine remains of the boss are no use for welding, but a new alloy piece could be welded on and tapped to suit the sender. (Taper tapping is a bit tricky.) Of course if you could find and engine in a scrapyard with the right thread in a boss you could perhaps cut that off and have it welded onto your casting.

I can see that the new casting would be very expensive.