Volvo 2002 electrical problem

bigwow

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My port engine has developed an annoying electrical problem. I switch it on, go through the starting rigmarole and after about ten minutes, the rev counter flickers a few times then dies, the engine keeps running as normal. Sometime the rev counter comes on again, sometimes not. If I stop the engine when the rev counter dies the engine is as dead as a dodo.

I am thinking it might be either the relay thingy under the fuse block or the fuse block itself. Before I order them is there anywhere else I should be looking to resolve this problem.
Thanks
 
My port engine has developed an annoying electrical problem. I switch it on, go through the starting rigmarole and after about ten minutes, the rev counter flickers a few times then dies, the engine keeps running as normal. Sometime the rev counter comes on again, sometimes not. If I stop the engine when the rev counter dies the engine is as dead as a dodo.

I am thinking it might be either the relay thingy under the fuse block or the fuse block itself. Before I order them is there anywhere else I should be looking to resolve this problem.
Thanks

I had a similar problem several years ago. I eventually twigged that the needle was 'catching' (I cant remember what exactly but I seem to remember that i had to bend the needle slightly). Beware that when I took the instrument apart some of the parts were all corroded and broke up. However, I did manage to get it all back together again with a judicious amount of sealant to act as glue/gaskets. At the time I was well pleased with myself - far cheaper than the cost of a replacement iinstrument. Its still working now.
 
My port engine has developed an annoying electrical problem. I switch it on, go through the starting rigmarole and after about ten minutes, the rev counter flickers a few times then dies, the engine keeps running as normal. Sometime the rev counter comes on again, sometimes not. If I stop the engine when the rev counter dies the engine is as dead as a dodo.

I am thinking it might be either the relay thingy under the fuse block or the fuse block itself. Before I order them is there anywhere else I should be looking to resolve this problem.
Thanks

Hi,
I am just feeling my way into understanding a new-to-me VP2003, so my thoughts are entirely theoretical, except I have just rebuilt and fully tested my spare instrument panel.
I therefore bow to those with more experience.
To work, the rev indication on my 2003 requires the single 'W' wire (carrying ~500Hz) from the alternator together with the switched +12 dc on the instrument panel.
I don't believe the 'W' wire can cause the engine not to start, so its probably the +12V. There are 6 possible dirty contacts between the incoming battery to the panel and the 'Start' signal leaving it.

If you mean by 'dodo' that the engine will not restart after stopping it because the revs were not indicating, did you check that the panel 12V was still available - there should be fully lit alarm lamps and, by pressing the 'alarm test' for example, a full blooded alarm?
My first reaction would be to clean, remake and protect (Contralube is good) all electrical terminations.
I'd then work back along the 12V path to the battery. In my case that would be:-
Both sides of the panel ON/OFF switch
Pin 1 on the round connector
Both sides of the fuse box
Pin30 (only) on the engine relay
+ve on the starter
Both sides of 12V isolator
Battery

Good Luck
 
My port engine has developed an annoying electrical problem. I switch it on, go through the starting rigmarole and after about ten minutes, the rev counter flickers a few times then dies, the engine keeps running as normal. Sometime the rev counter comes on again, sometimes not. If I stop the engine when the rev counter dies the engine is as dead as a dodo.

I am thinking it might be either the relay thingy under the fuse block or the fuse block itself. Before I order them is there anywhere else I should be looking to resolve this problem.
Thanks

Check the spade connector that supplies the 12v supply to the engine fuse block. These connections are notorious for developing a high resistance due to
a poor choice of materials. A good clean up and vaseline will get things going. The best solution is to remove the 4 fuse block with spade connectors and replace it with a screw clamp type.
 
My port engine has developed an annoying electrical problem. I switch it on, go through the starting rigmarole and after about ten minutes, the rev counter flickers a few times then dies, the engine keeps running as normal. Sometime the rev counter comes on again, sometimes not. If I stop the engine when the rev counter dies the engine is as dead as a dodo.

I am thinking it might be either the relay thingy under the fuse block or the fuse block itself. Before I order them is there anywhere else I should be looking to resolve this problem.
Thanks

The relay is in the starter circuit. Check this and the connections to it if you have all the instruments and warning lights operating normally but it just wont crank.

If the panel is completely dead ... ie no warning lights etc. check the power supply to the panel from the main battery connection on the starter solenoid and follow it (red wire) via the fuse and the multiway cable to the control panel.

If Ok this far check the operation of the keyswitch ( or panel switch if not fitted with a keyswitch)

Don't ignore the possibility of a bad connection on the negative somewhere ( solid black wire)

Refer to the wiring diagrams in the owners manual ( which you can download from http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopent...lication_search/pages/publication_search.aspx if you have mislaid your copy) and check methodically.

I would use a test bulb ( small 12 volt bulb) on a couple of leads rather than a digital multimeter because you can often get a normal reading on a digital meter even through a poor connection ... don't ask why I suggest this!
 
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