viewed a sealine 230 today, advice please on strress cracks found

PirateMark

PirateMark

Well-Known Member
Joined
11 Apr 2013
Messages
80
Location
Bridgwater
Visit site
View attachment 32372Viewed a sealine 230 today, left my 10% deposit and had a good 4 hours finding issues, found lots that require some tlc, trim tabs not working at all, but my main concern are the spider cracks in the gelcoat at various areas.unable to test shore power as there is a fault with the control panel switch whitch is stuck solid and wont move so have not tested shower ot hotwater yet. did get my deposit back thou.

AView attachment 32372View attachment 32373View attachment 32374View attachment 32375View attachment 32376

any chance some one could help and tell me if they think its ok or more a a sinister problems, i have included a pic of the lower bed section were water has got in to the boat and damage the upper roof cusion.

We realy like the boat and it has been reduced to a better offer, but the issues found today has stopped us.

chers guys

pirate marky
 
Hi Mark,

I'm no expert but the first 3 look like impact fracturing as a result of abuse to me more than stress cracking and as such I'd say they were repairable. Where's the last pic taken? Is that a hinge?

Wouldn't put me off if the price was right, but I'd certainly get a quote for a repair as I've been surprised how expensive jobs like this can be to have done right! I'd say the underlying fibreglass on the third one will need repair too in order to prevent a new gel repair from crazing - perhaps the others too...
 
From what I can see on the pictures none of he stress cracking looks to be serious or in an area to be worried about. It wold be handy to know if it is just the gel that has cracked due to the GRP flexing (probably due to impact or pressure) or whether the GRP is cracked as well. It is possible to repair but the cracks may reappear. Many old boats have some stress cracks somewhere.....our Broom is a tank but is not immune.

The larger bit of damage looks like a bodged repair and from what I can see could probably be put right by someone who knows what hey are doing. Again it appears cosmetic as opposed to structural.

Water ingress damage to the headlining can be fixed....just need to be sure that the leak is fixed first.

Depends on your attitude to getting some work done/living with some of the cracks combined with the price of the boat I guess.
 
+1 for the cracks - easy to repair, very diy-able but difficult to colour match, Sealines are usually very white and the Isopon gel coat filler is pretty close. the cracks at the rear of the swim platform around the snap davit hooks need investigating. Looks like they are overloaded, so need taking off and the area behind reinforcing with more fibreglass/wood to spread the load if you plan on using them. The large surface cracks might be tricky to remove permanently unless you grind out the gel coat with something subtle like a dremel and check out the fibre glass. Don't go at it with a disk sander - gel coat is quite soft and easy to work.

Elessar on the forum is reviving an older sealine 410 and judging by the pictures he found a gel coat magician - the results are excellent.

The saggy headlining needs taking down. On sealines it is often glued to a thin piece of ply. Not sure how you get it out on a 230 but someone on here will know the "trick" to get them out easily. The vinyl is easily available and the wood panel if knackered is just plywood. A stapler and a tin of evostick and you will be in business. if the engine and outdrive are in good condition with some recent service history the issues you have found wouldn't put me off at a good price.

just a thought on the trim tabs - I had a boat as part exchange a few years ago and the trim tabs didn't work. They had never been filled with oil - easy fix - you never know :-)
 
Last edited:
chers guys i thought they may be ok just wanted to second, the boat does have lots of damp on internal mouldings, but luckly it can be cleaned off, (tested)

the volvo penta 4.3 v6 434 has done 368 hours how accurate that is i will never prove, at least i know how to work on the engine if it need to come out.

Will see what price i can get here for.
 
if its petrol engine have a good look at the exhaust risers as they will rot away. cast iron full of boiling seawater - not a good combination. Find out if they have ever been changed - if not budget for a new set as if they start to leak into the engine it will definitely be engine out time. Check all the fuel lines really carefully too.
 
excellent response guys thanks,
engine and leg serviced 3 weeks ago, boat has been out of the water for nearly a year as owner has completly lost interest. left riser has been replaced while the right side looks knackerd and rusted out, could not do compresion test as still waiting for my new kit to turn up.
:)
:)

i will get your advice on the antifoul removal and condition, cant upload pic due to quota level, will post back shortly

here some pics, how bad is this has i have no idea on antifoul never had a boat with it on, prefer shiny white bottoms.:cool:

View attachment 32378View attachment 32379
 
Last edited:
From your pic, I can't see any reason why do can't just scrape off any loose areas of foul, and paint over the top.
On your gelcoat crazing, you need a gelcoat wizard to give you a quote. There is a guy I use who Sealine have used for warranty repairs. H is fantastic, and will match anything. Charges about £150 a day, and well worth it. He is based near Worcester but can travel. If you want his details, pm me.
 
thanks all and rafiki,
Am i right in thinking antifoul can be scrapped off, i thought you would have to apply some form of stripper to remove it correctly with out damageing the hull.

once a deal is agreed i will sort things and start work, lets see what happens??

thanks all
 
You can scrape all the old a/f off, but unless the layers are clearly causing a problem, it is not unusual to paint an additional layer, assuming you remove any loose bits first. Scraping is not the easiest task in the world, and you can have the a/f blasted off, but budget £1 k to do this. Do not expect the vendor to pay, and this is all part of the upkeep of the boat. A surveyor might scrape away a couple of small areas to test the waster content of the hull.
 
PirateMark said:
excellent response guys thanks,
engine and leg serviced 3 weeks ago, boat has been out of the water for nearly a year as owner has completly lost interest. left riser has been replaced while the right side looks knackerd and rusted out.............
Click to expand...

Hi Mark

Good luck with the new acquisition, but this risor issue would make me question just how thorough the 'service' was.
I've not heard of anybody replacing just one before.

How old is the engine, is it raw water cooled and by the anti-foul assume it's been moored all it's life?
 
AndieMac said:
Hi Mark

Good luck with the new acquisition, but this risor issue would make me question just how thorough the 'service' was.
I've not heard of anybody replacing just one before.

How old is the engine, is it raw water cooled and by the anti-foul assume it's been moored all it's life?
Click to expand...

can confirm only the left side was riser was replaced as it failed the the sea test by engineer, duo prob+leg replaced in 2009, engine has had a full service with proof of reciepts. the engine is the second one as it came originaly with a v/p 431 but now has v/p 434.yes it is sea water cooled.

18 months ago the vendor sold this boat and it left his space in very good condition, but now not so good, but im prepaired to accept all the issue and not use till next so i will have lots of time to correct issue and even pull engine out. I have no idea how long the antifoul has been on.??
What the boat so much but at a price that reflects the 24 issue i have found.
 
Hi Mark,
The cracks look cosmetic, although the side moulding crack is obvious collision damage, they can be easily repaired.
With some practice these will be an easy DIY, colour matching is the hard part however.
As you will be cleaning the whole boat (compounding) they will be less visible and can be done very effectively, we had similar scuffs and scrapes which were removed without trace, approx ten in total, cost was around £1k for a full ground out, glass and gelcote finish.

Smaller scratches are easy, wet and dry followed by compounding will give a flawless finish (not too heavy with the wet and dry though).

The head linings are easy to repair/replace, most are foam backed vinyl using spray adhesive onto ply (aft berth) that are screw mounted, and the cabin will be foam backed vinyl again spray adhesive mounted to the internal mouldings.

We completely removed the aft berth linings to get the fuel tank out on our old 240, easy to remove and replace.

Most of the issues found on your inspection will be easy fixes, switch replacement?, possible lack of use related issues but easily fixed if you are useful with a multimeter.

As a project you are well capable of doing this some real justice, having seen wellcrafty I wouldn't be at all surprised if this looks like brand new within the first month of ownership:cool:
 
enterprise said:
Hi Mark,
The cracks look cosmetic, although the side moulding crack is obvious collision damage, they can be easily repaired.
With some practice these will be an easy DIY, colour matching is the hard part however.
As you will be cleaning the whole boat (compounding) they will be less visible and can be done very effectively, we had similar scuffs and scrapes which were removed without trace, approx ten in total, cost was around £1k for a full ground out, glass and gelcote finish.

Smaller scratches are easy, wet and dry followed by compounding will give a flawless finish (not too heavy with the wet and dry though).

The head linings are easy to repair/replace, most are foam backed vinyl using spray adhesive onto ply (aft berth) that are screw mounted, and the cabin will be foam backed vinyl again spray adhesive mounted to the internal mouldings.

We completely removed the aft berth linings to get the fuel tank out on our old 240, easy to remove and replace.

Most of the issues found on your inspection will be easy fixes, switch replacement?, possible lack of use related issues but easily fixed if you are useful with a multimeter.

As a project you are well capable of doing this some real justice, having seen wellcrafty I wouldn't be at all surprised if this looks like brand new within the first month of ownership:cool:
Click to expand...


Thanks for that lovely comment enterprise cant wait to get my hands on here.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top