Veneer Repairs Advice

[John100156]

In a couple of areas in my saloon, the veneer has blown from its backing, I have some strong double stick adhesive and wondered if it would be best to apply the adhesive and whilst waiting for it to dry, to use a heat gun to heat up the strip of veneer slightly to make it more pliable prior to pressing home, the danger I suspect might be the possibility of cracking the lacquered finish if not careful, can any one offer advice as to how best to deal with this???? Images as follows, many thanks:

 

[MrB]

I think i would try the tape/or a good contact glue and have a vertical length of timber wedged for the length of the loose veneer for as long as possible to hold it in place. I would be too worried to add heat as you could bubble the clear coat varnish.

 

[Gwylan]

Gorilla glue, I would be reluctant to take chances with the heat. A little steam might be a better idea.

A long piece of timber wrapped in cling film and clamped to apply pressure along the length of the strip.
The cling film avoids the risk of the piece of timber sticking to the veneer. The cling film will be easier to remove if there is any that sticks to the veneer.

Good luck.

 

[russ]

Be careful with some Gorilla glue as they can foam/expand out through joints and over the lacquered finish. Maybe use a PVA pushed in-between with a filler blade.
Duct tape or clamp down veneer.

 

[Hurricane]

I agree with the direct heat but:-
How about steam to help bend the old veneer back - maybe a wallpaper stripper and a towel/flunky.
Just a thought.

 

[Elessar]

In a couple of areas in my saloon, the veneer has blown from its backing, I have some strong double stick adhesive and wondered if it would be best to apply the adhesive and whilst waiting for it to dry, to use a heat gun to heat up the strip of veneer slightly to make it more pliable prior to pressing home, the danger I suspect might be the possibility of cracking the lacquered finish if not careful, can any one offer advice as to how best to deal with this???? Images as follows, many thanks:

Hi John,

as you know i re veneered the inside of my boat.

Gorilla glue is a no no it expands and it has the "get everywhere" capabilities of sikaflex and gloss paint.

For large areas I used evo stik, and then evolved to the screw-fix rip of version of the same. This is no good where the veneer is half on because you'll get a step where the new glue starts and if sticks with a crease or something you are stumped.

Where I did get a bubble I slit it down the grain and used superglue. That's a problem for you as with high gloss there is no grain.

Even so i think superglue may be good, as you can do a bead of glue just where the veneer is still attached, push that on and hold, then repeat. It only sticks when its a very thin film so you should get a good finish, sticking a mm or 3 at a time.

Wallpaper steamers are a good idea if it won't press back, but using the bit at a time technique it might. And I'd worry about making the laquer go milky.

If you want to stick in 1 go I'd try Russ's suggestion.

 

[John100156]

Sorry I have not responded sooner - manic at work as always...

Thanks for all your comments, really helpful, I will try several methods in less noticeable areas, then the best result in more visible areas. Will let you know how I get on with the above!

We are off to the Canaries for Xmas not to avoid our 11 grandchildren of course but have booked flights from there to Barcelona on 27th for a week or so in Sant Carles to do some maintenance...!

 

[rubberduck]

On the edging it will have been glued on originally. A piece of cardboard shirt packaging thickness & a hot iron, place card over area & apply iron, short bursts checking all the time, should reactivate the original glue. Do not leave iron on too long, on for a few seconds then off & check, adjust time as needed.
Try same on other area, different glue but may work. If not I would use this, http://www.woodveneer4u.co.uk/WoodVeneerAdhesives.html
make sure you mask areas you don't want glue on, apply glue with iron, remove backing paper & cool, then push veneer int place & iron back into place.

Try to use edge of iron to avoid damage to other areas if possible. Never iron without card.

 

[John100156]

Thanks RD that certaily sounds worth a try, we have a couple of top edges on a couple of small galley cupboard doors that might benefit from this method...!