Varnishing

[tyce]

I am a bit of a numpty at varnishing but i want to do a fair bit this winter so its time to learn.
I have brought the saloon steps home to varnish, the varnish has worn back to the wood on the steps and where it has worn through to the wood it has slightly bleached the wood.
The remaining varnish is not damaged or flaky so do i need to strip the whole lot back to bare wood or should i just sand and revarnish.

 

[Tranona]

Your choice depending on how much effort you want to put in and the final standard you want. If you are just overcoating ensure that your new varnish is compatible with the existing. Generally varnish is not a good finish for high wear locations such as steps so you might consider using a different surface there and just varnish the frame.

 

[VicS]

When you sand be sure to sand along the grain... sanding across the grain will produce scratches that will be visible.

As MrT says ensure what you apply is compatible with what is underneath. Don't use a two pack on top of a single pack!

Read the product data sheet before you start

Be sure to get rid of all sanding dust. A vacuum cleaner is not good enough to get rid of it all. Wipe down also with lint free rag and thinners or preferably a "Tack rag" ( you can wash a sealed surface with water but perhaps not such a good idea on bare wood)

Aim for 5 or 6 coats, rubdown lightly as necessary between coats but remember sanding is removing varnish you have already applied.

Be sure to use a clean brush .. no bits of paint in it. Apply enough to properly cover the surface and just flow but not enough to run. ( its always the final coat that runs ... Sods law.) Dont go back over it after it has started to dry. Good lighting where you are working is vital.

Find a dust free place to work. No children stirring up dust .. no dog or cat to shed hairs Definitely no where SWMBO will go near .. wet varnish is a magnet to them.

Consider protecting the finished item with some no slip strips on the steps. Or as Mr T suggests something different altogether on the treads

 

[LittleShip]

If there is a colour discrepancy where the varnish has been worn away it will show if you just rub down and varnish over it.

You will probably need to strip and sand the whole piece if you want it to blend in correctly


Tom

 

[Lakesailor]

I've used Universal Clear Primer before varnishing and found it excellent for areas subject to abrasion.

 

[tyce]

Thankyou all for excellent and detailed advice, very much appreciated especially vic for taking the time to give a very detailed reply.

 

[VicS]

Thankyou all for excellent and detailed advice, very much appreciated especially vic for taking the time to give a very detailed reply.

Locker tops and wash boards behind me waiting for their annual coat of varnish!

( used a brush that had some dust in it last year ... wont make that mistake again)

 

[Captain Coochie]

Strip it back to wood

Then add pure turps to the paint and varnish . Denib between coats with wet and dry and wipe of any dust with Meths , turps etc .

 

[Scotty_Tradewind]

Another tip imho try and have the temperature of the part being varnished and the room temperature at around 20C. The varnish will be at the right viscosity and will go off/mature better.

I use LeTonkinois varnish which has some very special qualities... http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/VarMain.html

 

[Grajan]

Don't think they produce Universal Clear Primer any more, it was a great product if you new what it was !! a TWO pack varnish. UCP used moisture as its curing agent hence the problem re-opening the can, those who have used this product will know what I am talking about.
The secret of achieving a special varnish finish is to rub down with a medium grit paper dust off and apply say three coats then de nib, this allows fibres in the timber to act as "anchors" for the varnish - apply another couple of coats, allow varnish to harden then flat back with wet & dry 400 /600 used wet - clean off with thinners apply final coat(s) using tack rags prior to applying the varnish and as VicS says a dust free atmosphere and dont wear a wooly jumper!

A good brush does make a difference and wash out between coats
we used to always suspend our brushes on a 4" nail in a tin of thinners by drilling a hole through the shank of the brush this keeps the bristles off the bottom of the thinners tin where all the "gritty" bits gather.

 

[Scotty_Tradewind]

This may help to prime surfaces.
I've used it on most surfaces that I've painted or varnished. Really is a lazy mans way but I've found it very successful.

http://www.diytools.co.uk/esp-prime...ganic-Feed&utm_campaign=Google-Product-Search

 

[VicS]

Don't think they produce Universal Clear Primer any more

It does seem not to be available in the Uk. Boatpaint.co.uk say is is discontinued

International offer different products in different counties.
In the ROI they now offer a two pack fast dry wood sealer. In the USA they offer a single pack wood sealer.
In Australia a fast cure two pack primer

Same or similar product different names maybe in some cases.

 

[johnalison]

I don't think the actual product used is as important as how, so it would be best to follow the instructions that the experts above have given.

If the loss of varnish is due to wear on the steps, consider putting a non-slip band or brass strip on the area that takes wear.

 

[stav]

Why varnish where it will get worn away? I would just do the sides. When varnishing (or painting) I just keep the brush in a bottle with linseed oil in and give it a good wipe before using.

For floors I use Durasatin varnish and seems to hold up quite well.

 

[KINGFISHER 8]

........... and don't forget that varnished steps will be slippery (lethal) when wet ... I've got stick on Trakmark on mine .... good stuff, comes in different sized pads and sticks like sh*t to a blanket.

 

[grumpygit]

Following this topic with interest, I'm probably in the same position as the OP.
Has anyone tried Jenny brushes for varnishing and if so to what success please.

In places that get full UV ( Med sun) I'm leaning towards teak oil instead of varnish. I would love to revarnish because of colours that are drawn out of the teak. It's the stripping back every time.

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[Poignard]

Has anyone tried Jenny brushes for varnishing and if so to what success please.

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Yes I use them a lot, and the cheapest source I have found is Flints Theatrical Chandlers, especially if you buy a box of 48

http://www.flints.co.uk/acatalog/Jenny_Foam_Brushes_and_Rollers.html

 

[johnalison]

Me too. You can get a glass-like finish fairly easily but they're not a substitute for good technique.

 

[Scotty_Tradewind]

The OP is varnishing his internal steps. Definatly add some non-slip of some type to the varnish on the steps, then wash off when the varnish has gone off.
One owner said that he recently did this by sprinkling sugar onto the wet varnish from a sieve. I've just had some non slip areas on my GRP decks done in epoxy and fine sand/shell grit which gave a surprisingly fine non slip result. Not too damaging to knees or clothing I hope.

Outside varnishing is a lottery - how much time have you got each year to keep up with it? And is it better to leave natural and grey?

It definitly helps maintain good quality varnish to cover from sun and frost.

 

[Poignard]

Me too. You can get a glass-like finish fairly easily but they're not a substitute for good technique.

Yes, you do need a brush to work varnish into tight corners and seams.

I did also buy some foam rollers but I haven't tried them out yet. Probably a mistaken purchase because I don't have any areas of varnish large enough to justify their use.