Varnishing outside.

noswellplease

noswellplease

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Being totally new to the varnishing game I plan to replace some of the teak toe rail and basically varnish the lot. I also plan to replace the cabin double door entrace with new teak doors and varnish this also. From what I can gleam here I start with a coarse say 120 to get back to the wood. Then apply the first coat. Then I guss I use a slightly finer grade paper. Is the wet paper to provide the final clean up before the next coat goes on? I'm guessing this is the case. If I want to get a really nice look do I have to apply about 6 or more coats? . Finally the old cabin doors have air slots built in which take a bit of doing for the joiner. Are these really necessary? or could a series of drilled holes do the same job without all the trouble. I know it would not look quite as nice, but I'm just wondering is it really necessary in the first place. If a few pointers can be passed on about these it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
 
I'm in agreement with Larry Pardey, who refuses to varnish the teak on 'Taleisin', but leaves it bare, a lovely silvery-grey. However, I can imagine that this would not be acceptable for the companionway doors. As you are planning to replace the cabin doors, why not do a decent job and fit proper louvres instead of naff slots? As for holes, ugh! You'll see why when the wind-driven rain comes down on that side, and you get a nice sprinkling all over the quarter-berth.
For a good varnish finish, refer to the same question asked a few posts ago. You'll need at least 6 coats, usually 10 with sanding in between. It's not a job for the faint of heart.
Peter.
 
Good quality stainless steel louvres will assist ventilation, keep out the rain and look ok.

You can also buy ready made teak louvres from swindleries.
 
Thanks for those comments, the deck on the boat is teak which is unvarnished it's only the toe rail I am thinking of varnishing as I think it would be a nice project to undertake and as the boat is only 10 minutes away from where I live I can undertake it as a Winter / Spring project. The doors Louvre I hadn't thought of that but it sounds like a good idea, I'll discuss it with my joinery man.
For the record I started repairing my teak deck, replacing missing screw hole plugs and next Spring hope to replace some of the sikaflex between the strips. I guess one of those thin electrical vibrating blades (whatever you call them) is the easiest way to remove the sikaflex? ....Russ
 
I am in basic agreement with Larry Pardy, tho it is nice to have some brightwork around, even on a plastic boat. The toerails in particular, if left, tend to weather particularly at the bow where it is frequently wet. The first sign of deterioation is often raised grain and then later softness.
This year I have used Cetol on mine, not a varnish effect but very nice, and you can almost do it in the rain. Two or three coats max.
 
I use whatever grade i need to get the old varnish off and then work down the grits . I use wet and dry between coats of varnish (wet) as it cuts better . Then wipe the whole surface to get rid of the paste it leaves and apply the next coat . 10 - 15 coats mixed with pure turps gives a really nice finish .
 
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Hes not talking about his finger nails dear /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

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I always do my nails at the salon as well you know dear! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
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TI guess one of those thin electrical vibrating blades (whatever you call them) is the easiest way to remove the sikaflex? ....Russ

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Fein Multimaster, here

There's several threads about doing this if you can get the search engine to work, but be warned it's a massive job...
 
Suggest you consider Sikkens Novatec/Novatop for finishing both toe rails and cabin doors. It is a porous water based woodstain similar to that used on such things as fancy wood doors on a house, but very durable. It is a two pot system, basse coat and top coat. You can just use the base or use a top coat with a light pigment to give a gloss type finish. Expensive per litre, but because you need so little is cheap per sqm. Easy to apply and always comes out top on durability. See recent article by Richard Hares in recent Classic Boat. Over the last 30 years I have used most of the other bright finishes and nothing beats it. Have just had my huge (relatively - particularly when you have to strip it) wooden mast down for the first time in 5 years. Coat was still intact even though it faces the prevailing wind and sun and one coat allover and an extra one on the forward SW face and it is ready for another 5 years.
 
Saw an article about it some years ago. It was difficult to get hold of and expensive, but it is easily obtained now. Full name Cetol Novatech by Sikkins. There are a number of slightly different variants, but I believe they all perform a similar task.
See Tranona above.
I have never bothered with the top coat myself The limited gloss is soon lost, the top sealing coat might improve this but I doubt it. Apart from that it is superb.
 
I shall continue using EPIFANES as it has served me well and needs a few coats but patching is easy and looks superb. And there is a lot of woodwork to sort out on Bosun.

I have found a source of sanding paper that is of varying grits but backed by foam. It is so good to use and gets right into corners and mouldings leaving the hands pristine and not sore from the effort
 
If you are going for a gloss finish International UCP (Universal Clear Primer) is an excellent base coat. You can use it as a holding coat until the weather improves and as it dries in about 2hrs you don't need much of a weather window.
In addition it cures by a reaction with water so very slightly damp wood is not a problem.
If you want a matt finish you can rub it back when you are ready for action.
 
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