calloo
New member
Can any body tell me what is the best varnish to use on iroko please
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varnish on iroko
- Thread starter calloo
- Start date
BrendanS
Well-known member
ccscott who has an Iroko motor sailer in the med always swears by coelans
<hr width=100% size=1>Utinam logica falsa tuam philisophiam totam suffodiant
<hr width=100% size=1>Utinam logica falsa tuam philisophiam totam suffodiant
Althorne
New member
If you go to the trouble of searching last years PBO's or MBM's you will find that one of them did an indepth test and something like a B&Q yacht varnish at a fraction of the cost of some came top or very close to it. As it was a feature it should be easy to spot from the cover or index. Good place to start I think, could save you lots.
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Casey
New member
Use Sikkens but first get their instruction leaflet and follow it to the letter. My Iroko toe rail varnish is in excellent condition after I was advised to do just that.
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dickh
New member
BUT if you read the small print on the B&Q "Yacht Varnish" - it says "Not suitable for outside use..... !! But has a nice yacht picture on the tin!
<hr width=100% size=1>dickh
I'd rather be sailing...
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<hr width=100% size=1>dickh
I'd rather be sailing...
/forums/images/icons/smile.gifMirelle
N/A
I have a teak gaff cutter in Britain and I do too!
BUT - Coelan is not a varnish, strictly speaking - and it is MILES more expensive than the most expensive varnish.
Iroko is not very difficult to varnish; it is a bit oily but not as oily as teak.
It does need to have the grain filled, so if using less than say 6 coats use a grain filler. Personally I think iroko looks too brown to really look good so I put a teak or mahagony stain on it first.
My personal preference among the ordinary varnishes is Epifanes.
<hr width=100% size=1>Que scais-je?
BUT - Coelan is not a varnish, strictly speaking - and it is MILES more expensive than the most expensive varnish.
Iroko is not very difficult to varnish; it is a bit oily but not as oily as teak.
It does need to have the grain filled, so if using less than say 6 coats use a grain filler. Personally I think iroko looks too brown to really look good so I put a teak or mahagony stain on it first.
My personal preference among the ordinary varnishes is Epifanes.
<hr width=100% size=1>Que scais-je?
richardandtracy
New member
B&Q yacht varnish not OK for exterior use.
I don't think B&Q yacht varnish is suitable for interior use either..
I now use Ronseal stuff - quick dry & good in use. Don't have Iroko though.
Regards
Richard.
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I don't think B&Q yacht varnish is suitable for interior use either..
I now use Ronseal stuff - quick dry & good in use. Don't have Iroko though.
Regards
Richard.
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Evadne
Active member
Re: B&Q yacht varnish not OK for exterior use.
I tried B&Q yacht varnish once, under the mistaken belief that it was what it said on the tin. Three coats had completely worn away in some areas after 3-4 months. In general, the more expensive it is, the better it is (tho' it's not a linear relationship). I use Epiphanes now.
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I tried B&Q yacht varnish once, under the mistaken belief that it was what it said on the tin. Three coats had completely worn away in some areas after 3-4 months. In general, the more expensive it is, the better it is (tho' it's not a linear relationship). I use Epiphanes now.
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Mirelle
N/A
Non-linear relationship...
Agreed.
I use "International Crystal for Teak" on the cabin table, as you can stand a boiling kettle on it, but I would not use a 2 pot poly anywhere externally. Otherwise, Epifanes, but for bits that really get banged about, which ordinary varnish would never stick on, like blocks, I am now converted to Coelan, which is not really a varnish at all, but is very tough stuff. It is on the linear scale, costing 4x Epifanes and seems to last 4 x as long.
<hr width=100% size=1>Que scais-je?
Agreed.
I use "International Crystal for Teak" on the cabin table, as you can stand a boiling kettle on it, but I would not use a 2 pot poly anywhere externally. Otherwise, Epifanes, but for bits that really get banged about, which ordinary varnish would never stick on, like blocks, I am now converted to Coelan, which is not really a varnish at all, but is very tough stuff. It is on the linear scale, costing 4x Epifanes and seems to last 4 x as long.
<hr width=100% size=1>Que scais-je?
jon
New member
Epifanes make two excellent varnishes for Teak and Iroko.
Their PP Varnish Extra is two component and must be over coated for exterior use with 2 coats of either their one component Clear Varnish or their 2 pack Polyurethane Clear.
A cheaper alternative is their one component Wood Finish Gloss.
They publish an excellent Systems and Advice Booklet.
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Their PP Varnish Extra is two component and must be over coated for exterior use with 2 coats of either their one component Clear Varnish or their 2 pack Polyurethane Clear.
A cheaper alternative is their one component Wood Finish Gloss.
They publish an excellent Systems and Advice Booklet.
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dulcibella
Active member
I used Deksolye very successfully on an iroko tiller - 2 coats of No 1 (the oil) then 4 coats of No 2. The finish seems tough and lasts well.
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dulcibella
Active member
I used Deksolye very successfully on an iroko tiller - 2 coats of No 1 (the oil) then 4 coats of No 2. The finish seems tough and lasts well.
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