varnish again or two pack paint ?

simonfraser

simonfraser

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Hi,

i shall shortly have to remove the varnish around the entrance / hatch area, a nasty job i guess as there are lots of small areas.

the boat is ply / epoxy & white two pack on the adjacent bulklhead, so i can't use stripper and i will have to sand it all off ??

anyway can i put two pack white paint over slightly dodgy varnish, i.e. will it last

or is there such a thing as two pack varnish to put on bare wood ?

regards, Simon
 
SP make Ultravar 2000 which I used on my woodwork. It produces a nice colour on the wood, and is very hard and durable. It certainly has my vote.
 
I have a Fisher and I'm used to varnish and varnish removing. I do all removing work with an electric hot air blower and a professional hard metal scrapper.


Peter
 
I dont have any 2 pack paint so cant compare. But its a lot better than normal varnish. This gives you some idea of the finish:
yourh1.jpg
 
for what its worth, my bene had some discoloured "varnish" work, water had got under the finish, the finish is a spray on "laquer" i removed the old with nitromors and then found out how much bene wanted for a litre of laquer £200 ish!!
so i went to the local hard ware shop and bought std wood stain, i used this to get the colour and then bought some halford clear laquer, that used to finish metallic paint finishes, put on about 6 coats and it looks just like new, it also looks professional, not brush marked thumblethumbs, because it is designed for external car finish i expect it to last and last
stu
 
I used Ronseal Quick Drying Exterior Wood Stain ("it does what it says in the tin") on my woodwork around the hatch and on my rubbing strake. Totally non-boaty stuff but only £9 a tin! Put it on two seasons ago and it still looks like new!
 
Re: varnish again or two pack paint ? and Lacquer ...

I know its a different item .... but many years ago my mother bought wrong paints for a bicycle I had rebuilt. It was enamel paint for colour and clear spray polyurethane lacquer for overcoating.

Anyway - so not having much money and not wanting to upset mum ... I painted the bike with the enamel and then sprayed with the lacquer. Unbelievable results - the Lacquer was hard as nails and resisted scratches, nicks, all sorts of tumbles you have as a kid on a bike. I always considered lacquer as a thin easily damaged stuff ........ boy was I wrong. The parts of bike that were only enamel - did not survive as well.

I'm a great believer in Micro-pore stain for wood ... it soaks in and really helps the wood. It has a semi matt finish so is literally non-slip. Each year a light sand over and recoat is all thats needed. If you want a real sheen and cosmetic look - then a coat to stain and colour ... let it soak in ... and dry. Then a light single coat of gloss varnish. Doing it that way means that you don't have all that varnish soaked in that proves a pain when it blooms and needs scarping of.

I have a hatchway that has terrible staining and bloom .... it was varnished by previous owner - it will be a real pain to sort as water has got under the edge. If it had been done the stain and single coat way - the water wouldn't have penetrated the wood so badly.
So it's Skarsten scraper, mouse sander and try to make good ...
 
No it isnt. If you use epoxy, give it a coat of a decent varnish to give it some UV protection.

Ive tried the epoxy, then varnish on a small area of wood on my boat last year. The finish was brilliant. Its stood up to the winter without damage, so it should last well.

When the varnish does dull, a quick rub down and recoat will be all thats required. The epoxy will protect the wood.
 
Just doing the same thing. My procedure is:
a) Remove old varnish and epoxy with a hot air gun. I use one from Black & Decker that has a scraper on the nozzle...couldn't be easier...removing old coatings is now actually enjoyable!
b) Remove remainder of coating (powdery residue) using a small orbital sander (Black & Decker Mouse) with 40-80 grit, then finish with 120-180 grit. Again EASY...
c) Brush or vacuum surface to remove dust. Wipe with Acetone.
d) Coat with two coats clear epoxy (I use SP Sysyems coating grade SP320)
e) Ideally, overcoat with 1-2 coats of UV protective varnish (I haven't always done this...depends on how much sun the finish sees). People recommend a 2-pack PU varnish, but I think they are too brittle and prefer a more conventional alkyd type.

Hope this might help...
 
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