mdonnelly
Member
Have just replaced hull and saildrive anodes. The saildrive anode is 60% gone and the hull anode 25% gone. Any suggestions as to what to do with them? Am loathe to bin them.
Used anodes
- Thread starter mdonnelly
- Start date
stuey_two
Member
Recycle
Our marina (Tollesbury) has a bin specifically for recycling anodes - perhaps you can find one local to you.
Our marina (Tollesbury) has a bin specifically for recycling anodes - perhaps you can find one local to you.
sarabande
Well-known member
some crafty type (i.e. craft - skilled) will be melting them down and casting them into new ones....
Seadog17
New member
some crafty type (i.e. craft - skilled) will be melting them down and casting them into new ones....
+1
stuartwineberg
Well-known member
Careful
I am sure I won't be the only forumite to remind you that smelting zinc is extremely dangerous - the vapour is very toxic - as Blue Peter says - don't try this one at home. I take them down to the local scrap yard and weigh them in. Not sure of the current price but non ferrous scrap is worth a few bob.
some crafty type (i.e. craft - skilled) will be melting them down and casting them into new ones....
I am sure I won't be the only forumite to remind you that smelting zinc is extremely dangerous - the vapour is very toxic - as Blue Peter says - don't try this one at home. I take them down to the local scrap yard and weigh them in. Not sure of the current price but non ferrous scrap is worth a few bob.
VicMallows
New member
electrosys
New member
PM sent.
electrosys
New member
An exaggeration. So-called 'metal fume fever', caused by breathing-in large quantities of Zinc Oxide dust (not vapour: metallic zinc doesn't exist as a vapour - it's far too reactive) is a transient condition with flu-like symptoms. Typically 24hrs. Unlike lead poisoning, it seldom has any long-term ill effects.
You'll find Zinc Oxide in ElastoPlast, and in more creams and ointments than I'd care to shake a stick at - from which of course the skin actually absorbs the Zinc Oxide.
The UK current regulatory limit for Zinc in water is 5 mg/L
A total daily Zinc intake of up to 50 mg/day is considered safe.
NormanS
Well-known member
If your hull anode is only 25% gone, why change it?
mdonnelly
Member
Just want to have the whole of next year free of worry!
MANXPEDRO
New member
used anodes
I've dropped my old ones in the bilges with a wire attatched to earth them to the engine bed. Not sure if it helps or not, but any salty water in the bilge is better having an anode to erode, than other valuable metal work.
I've dropped my old ones in the bilges with a wire attatched to earth them to the engine bed. Not sure if it helps or not, but any salty water in the bilge is better having an anode to erode, than other valuable metal work.
Csail
N/A
I go on the theory , if its not broken don't touch it. Suppose yo can worry about the bolts now.Sure they were the right type?!!!!
ccscott49
Active member
I seem to through anode studs more than anodes!! But make my own now, which seem to last longer!
doug748
Well-known member
Throw one in with your anchor chain.
Electroplating small items with zinc is quite easy, using everday chemicals. Handy if you have a ald motor bike or car.
Electroplating small items with zinc is quite easy, using everday chemicals. Handy if you have a ald motor bike or car.
VicS
Well-known member
The anode ought to protect the studs extremely well. Your experience suggests a poor contact between the anode and the studs ... too much sealant ?? .. with the result that the studs are acting as the anode .
It is possible to get stainless steel studs for anodes.
PCUK
Well-known member
Vic, if you use SS studs, won't they corrode the thing they are supposed to protect in a case like this?
VicS
Well-known member
I'm just pointing out they exist and in fact MG Duff supply them.
I think the stainless may lose the protective oxide so its position in the galvanic series changes to be much closer to mild steel than when passive. Its is then protected by the anode in the same way that mild steel would be. A bit more of a potential difference still between it and zinc but maybe the advantages off set the disadvantages
I guess the attraction is that when out of the water it wont suffer from the surface rusting that mild steel studs will. That might be worth considering for a boat on a drying mooring if there is a problem with the standard zinc plated mild steel studs.
Not presenting any of this as fact ... just thinking aloud.
stuartwineberg
Well-known member
It's next door to B&Q
The local yard is next door to our local B&Q so no real journey - on the other hand - the remnants of a 12Kg bar anode, a couple of trim tab anodes and the thruster anode do weight quite a bit
You must get through an awful lot of them to make the journey worth while.
The local yard is next door to our local B&Q so no real journey - on the other hand - the remnants of a 12Kg bar anode, a couple of trim tab anodes and the thruster anode do weight quite a bit
GrahamHR
Well-known member
I've had stainless steel anode studs (actually nuts and bolts) on my trim tabs for 7 seasons. I also use stainless bots to attach the anodes to the captive bolts. I don't even think they're A4, more likely A2. Anode erosion is nothing out of the ordinary and the tabs and bolts are still there.
samwise
New member
If the OP has not already done so, has he thought of fitting a galvanic isolator that ought to slow anode erosion.
