US vs UK electrics

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mtbinscotland

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Hi, Im a newcomer to the Forum and very impressed with the expertise I see already. I am looking to import a boat from US but am concerned at the cost to convert the electrics to UK standard. Has anybody had experience in doing this? Is it something I need to be overly concerned with or is it a simple case of changing the transformer on-board and using UK adaptors in the US sockets?
Thanks in advance.
 
Electrics will be one issue - the other rather bigger on is it will not be CE marked and will be a pig to sell. You will also have to pay VAT and shipping. Others will be along in a moment with more info.


Re electrics you don't say what boat , but a typical boat will have

- charger
- hob
- oven / microwave
- washing machine / dishwasher ( depending on size)
- Air con

all of which would require changing, modification depending on their make and model.

The generator if fitted will require modification from 120v ac to 240 v ac

The US voltage is half the UK voltage, so the current doubles for the same power. You would hence possibly need to change the breakers as they will all be (roughly) twice the current rating required which would be dangerous.

You really need to be specific as to the boat, and its kit but I would assume it is quite large to justify the shipping cost / effort of import.
 
I agree all that. You'll need a new battery charger too

A complete alternative is to fit a converter transformer (it's a rectifier-transformer-inverter actually) that converts the 230v 50Hz input from the UK shorepower to 110v 60Hz, and then you would not need to touch anything else on the boat. Anytime you wanted to buy a new appliance (kettle, whatever) you'd have to buy US spec. This will be expensive though, so plan A might be better. Depends on the specifics as Jeremy said
 
jrudge said:
Electrics will be one issue - the other rather bigger on is it will not be CE marked and will be a pig to sell. You will also have to pay VAT and shipping. Others will be along in a moment with more info.
Click to expand...

I disagree. If you go for a boat that is / has been officially imported into the EU, CE compliance can be simple, cheap and easy. As in, <£1000 and 30 minutes time.

Also, no issue with reselling. The best way is to replace parts, so that it is identical to the officially imported model. In other words, do not go for a transformer, but replace the microwave etc. Most things can be switched over easily e.g. cooker electronics may have a voltage switch inside, cooker elements, etc. Many popular US battery chargers are dual 120/240v already. Keep in mind that manufacturers do not like having different parts for US and EU boats...

Re electrics you don't say what boat , but a typical boat will have
- charger
- hob
- oven / microwave
- washing machine / dishwasher ( depending on size)
- Air con

all of which would require changing, modification depending on their make and model.

The generator if fitted will require modification from 120v ac to 240 v ac

The US voltage is half the UK voltage, so the current doubles for the same power. You would hence possibly need to change the breakers as they will all be (roughly) twice the current rating required which would be dangerous.
Click to expand...

Usually, you only need a few new breakers, the rest gets moved down e.g. move the 5A ones to sockets where 10A was before, and so on. The cables, being capable of carrying more current than what you will be using, and probably being tinned to US specs, are much better.

You really need to be specific as to the boat, and its kit but I would assume it is quite large to justify the shipping cost / effort of import.
Click to expand...

In each and every case that I know off, it was more than justified. In fact, selling after a few years for almost double one's overall cost, is not unheard of.

If you absolutely, absolutely need to use a transformer, then use a torroidal autotransformer. Since it has a common ground - which is good in this case, it is a lot lighter; also, because of it's shape, it is a lot quieter. But as I say, try to convert it to the same spec the factory would have delivered it to an EU distributor.
 
Just done it. Only taken me 5 years. Most of modern American ops equipment can be easily converted to 220 v eg generator, battery charger, immersion heater, mains circuitry. Stuff like hobs, microwave etc are easily and cheaply swapped. For expensive fixed equipt like aircon buy and fit a dedicated step down transformer. If you can do most of the refitting yourself it should cost no more than £2 or 3000. When you're done get the boat professionally examined and insist on an inspection certificate.
Took me 5 years because I was too busy enjoying the boat.
 
EugeneR said:
I disagree. If you go for a boat that is / has been officially imported into the EU, CE compliance can be simple, cheap and easy. As in, <£1000 and 30 minutes time.

Also, no issue with reselling. The best way is to replace parts, so that it is identical to the officially imported model. In other words, do not go for a transformer, but replace the microwave etc. Most things can be switched over easily e.g. cooker electronics may have a voltage switch inside, cooker elements, etc. Many popular US battery chargers are dual 120/240v already. Keep in mind that manufacturers do not like having different parts for US and EU boats...



Usually, you only need a few new breakers, the rest gets moved down e.g. move the 5A ones to sockets where 10A was before, and so on. The cables, being capable of carrying more current than what you will be using, and probably being tinned to US specs, are much better.



In each and every case that I know off, it was more than justified. In fact, selling after a few years for almost double one's overall cost, is not unheard of.

If you absolutely, absolutely need to use a transformer, then use a torroidal autotransformer. Since it has a common ground - which is good in this case, it is a lot lighter; also, because of it's shape, it is a lot quieter. But as I say, try to convert it to the same spec the factory would have delivered it to an EU distributor.
Click to expand...

Totally agree with this I've owned 2 boats I imported from the states & saved a packet on both I actually made profit after 3 seasons with the first boat!

I did the electrics as above & ce was no problem
 
mtbinscotland said:
Hi, Im a newcomer to the Forum and very impressed with the expertise I see already. I am looking to import a boat from US but am concerned at the cost to convert the electrics to UK standard. Has anybody had experience in doing this? Is it something I need to be overly concerned with or is it a simple case of changing the transformer on-board and using UK adaptors in the US sockets?
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

I have done this, it's easy and no need to overcomplicate things.

Put a builders transformer on the input to the boat. About £120. You get 110v 50 h out of it and eveything will work. It should be 60 hz but it won't matter even for the microwave.

Change your sockets to UK ones and wire that before the transformer. So you get 240 v out of the sockets.

£200 topa for the conversion.

My american import owed me £42k after purchase, shipping, CE marking, electric conversion, import duty and vat.

I had it for 2 years, cruised extensively in it and sold it for £55k.
 
Elessar said:
I have done this, it's easy and no need to overcomplicate things.

Put a builders transformer on the input to the boat. About £120. You get 110v 50 h out of it and eveything will work. It should be 60 hz but it won't matter even for the microwave.

Change your sockets to UK ones and wire that before the transformer. So you get 240 v out of the sockets.

£200 topa for the conversion.

My american import owed me £42k after purchase, shipping, CE marking, electric conversion, import duty and vat.

I had it for 2 years, cruised extensively in it and sold it for £55k.
Click to expand...

I agree totally! I bought a 42 foot Sea Ray from Florida, it had twin inlet power leads, I fitted two transformers in the transom locker, the only thing that didn't work was the battery charger, everything else was fine. I bought appliances needed, (hairdryer, toaster, kettle etc) from Ebay that all ran 100 volts, bought a few adaptors for Laptop and phone chargers, and left all wall sockets at 100 volts. Perfect.

Sold for s profit three years later.
 
Elessar said:
I have done this, it's easy and no need to overcomplicate things.

Put a builders transformer on the input to the boat. About £120. You get 110v 50 h out of it and eveything will work. It should be 60 hz but it won't matter even for the microwave.

Change your sockets to UK ones and wire that before the transformer. So you get 240 v out of the sockets.

£200 topa for the conversion.

My american import owed me £42k after purchase, shipping, CE marking, electric conversion, import duty and vat.

I had it for 2 years, cruised extensively in it and sold it for £55k.
Click to expand...

First Mate and I bought an imported American sailboat. It was RCD compliant and plated but had 120v electrics.

The previous owner-who had sailed it over- had supplied a building site transformer which would work the water heater, microwave and battery charger.

No way would this cope with the Cruiseair Aircon though, and would not work any two of the others together.

Our solution was to install a 6KA transformer at about 450 quid sold for imported Winnebagos.

This runs everthing together should we wish to. It also allowed us to install a couple of dedicated 240v sockets so we can have an electric kettle and toaster when alongside with shore power.

The building site transformers were patently not of a high enough output. They are meant for power tools, not high current items like heating coils in calorifiers.

They both expired with a nasty burning smell........................................
 
username said:
Does anyone know if this works in reverse? Can you take a 220V boat to the US?
Click to expand...

Not unless the boat has been made for export, no.

In simple terms, UK wiring is thinner than US wiring because, for the same load, it only needs to carry half the current. If you use UK wiring to carry US current i.e. twice the current for the same load, you may exceed the wiring's rating - resulting in undesirable voltage drops, heat output, etc.

Another factor, not an issue here, is that US wiring may be required to be tinned whereas UK wiring is not.
 
The legal requirement on the boat builder is for relevant wiring to be moisture protected. Tinning is just one way to meet that requirement, hence 'may be required'.

As I said, the main issue is that UK wiring is unlikely to meet the current ratings when used at US voltages.
 
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