URGENT - ST6000 Autohelm 100/300 HELP/ADVICE required!

Scotty_Tradewind

Scotty_Tradewind

Well-Known Member
Joined
31 Oct 2005
Messages
4,654
Location
Me: South Oxfordshire. Boat, Galicia NW Spain
Visit site
Hi, Just had a text from my pal arrived in Scilly Isles. Can anyone help/advise please?

His ST6000 Autohelm 100/300 keeps stopping after about a 5 minute run.

It eventually restarts after a short while then packs up again after another 5 minutes etc...

I have suggested that it may cut out due to his steering being a bit stiff.

Would it have a built-in overload system?

I've suggested he undoes the steering cables and gravity feeds some lube down them in case that is the cause.... other than that I've no Autohelm electro/mechanical knowledge to pass on.

thanks
S.
 
Thanks so far guys,

I've passed on the details by sending him a text and an email of the link to this forum and your postings, although his internet connection to his smart

phone and I-pad are very slow on the buoy where he is..

He doesn't look at the forum often but if it solves his problem in some way I guess he'll be won over.. :)

Could gradual lack of volts be due to the Autohelm being overloaded causing a big discharge in that time?

He has been motor sailing a great deal as a light easterly was with him and he has a brand new and very large solar panel so I would have thought his

batteries would have been maintained to a high enough level to cope.

Received by a friend of this parish via personal message.... thanks, could be helpful... not sure if he has a full manual or not yet.

http://turbo36.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/autohelm-st6000-autopilot-system-operation-manual.pdf

http://turbo36.wordpress.com/equipm...pe300-autopilot-course-computer-owner-manual/

http://turbo36.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/st6000.pdf



S.
 
Last edited:
Hi Scotty - it's the same system I've got, so hopefully I can offer a few suggestions, but they mostly apply to any similar situation.

The Type 100 and Type 300 will drop out if there’s a voltage drop below 11.5 or 11.1V (can’t remember which), but my display will show an appropriate message.

Firstly, I’d do the easy checks in sequence to see if the fault can be narrowed down.

1/ Is the display giving an error message like “no heading info”, “no drive” or similar?

2/ Check the steering, with the autopilot ram disconnected if possible.

3/ Check power, as already suggested above. But don't forget, it's pretty pointless just sticking a voltmeter across the terminals when there is no load. Measure the voltage across the ram or pumps terminals when the pump or ram is operating if possible. If those terminals are hard to access, use the output ones on the computer (the two at the far right IIRC). Then measure at the battery, again, whilst the pump/ram is operating. If there a difference in these measurements, give all the power terminals a clean and reconnect, paying special attention to the negatives (most likely in my experience of anything like this.

4/ Isolate the ram or pump and try it with a direct power feed from the battery (using a breaker is poss). Does it move OK? Any noises that sound like its straining? Any unexpected delays in getting moving?

5/ Now time to focus on the electronics.

IIRC, the display will give an error message if there’s a problem with the heading sensor or rudder reference sensor.

So first I’d remove the display from wherever it is and reconnect it using a short lead directly to the computer, as this would get around any issue in the computer to display cable run.

I’d also disconnect any NMEA in or Seatlalk connections to any other instruments, so the only connections to the computer are the rudder reference, fluxgate, display, 12v in and 12v out to ram/pump

Is the display now showing an error?

If not, whilst instructing the pilot to turn left, measure the voltage on the output of the computer (the two terminals of the right, IIRC). Try again with the pilot turning left. You should have 12V for one direction and -12V for another. If you haven’t, I’d be suspecting blown power transistors. In which case, the computer needs a repair or replacement. Various people on this forum have had this issue with Type 100 and Type 300 and have struggled to get a replacement for realistic money. That being said, IMHO the repair should be straightforward for an electronics repair guy.

If those voltages are OK, checking the rudder reference would be next. On mine, I’d simply move the steering left and right and watch at the display. For testing the fluxgate, find where is it on the boat and stick something ferrous (eg a spanner) next to it whilst watching the display.

If it none of those, I’d be going to the bar for a beer.

Nigel
 
Just to add to this, regarding the volts issue. What happened was that I had gradually added more and more electronic toys, and so when the autohelm had to work hard it started to draw more amps than the cable could send up along with all the other toys. So although I was seeing 12V+ at the battery (engine on and charging / battery good) when the autohelm was working hard this dropped to 10.5V at the other end of the cable

The remedy in that case was pulling through a much fatter cable and no problems thereafter.
 
Last edited:
BTW: on the issue of blowing the power transistors, there is a much better way of setting p the AP up so they are unlikely to ever blow. This basically involves using the output of the AP computer to operate four relays. So the only 'strain' the the AP computer is the power required for those four relays and it's unlikely to be ever overloaded. Then the relay's turn on/off a separate power cable to the ram/pump. I have this arrangement.
 
Had the same problem recently and discovered that the plug connections on the inside of the cockpit locker were suffering the effects of metal deterioration. The plug was duly replaced using only +ive and -ive wires (no MNEA for me) and 'Plastic Pete' has given over 240 miles splendid service.

I love Plastic Pete :)
 
Seatrout said:
Had the same problem recently and discovered that the plug connections on the inside of the cockpit locker were suffering the effects of metal deterioration. The plug was duly replaced using only +ive and -ive wires (no MNEA for me) and 'Plastic Pete' has given over 240 miles splendid service.
Click to expand...

Dont know if he has a permanent connection but we had a similar problem one of the pins in the Bulgin multiplug had come loose and would give sufficient voltage to energise the TP. As soon as any current was required the lack of contact area caused it to "trip out" and go into stand by.
 
I note you say he has had the engine on so volts available will be usefully high, nevertheless.. I use the pitch note of the beep at the instrument head to tell me whether the connectors are getting a bit iffy: engine off, dull feeble beep, engine on ( and at charging revs) much higher beep, =time to clean, wiggle or cut out and hard wire the connectors behind the instrument head. Those pins are tiny.

The 4 relay bipass sounds clever.
At stupid expense I do carry a spare a/p too and a wee ' stick' one that clips onto the windvane and plugs directly to the batteries.. From experience . Electricery eh?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top