Unable to remove the 3-prop propeller housing

[TSailors]

Hi. Seeing that the anode (and part of the sail drive) is shot, I thought I'd remove the anode, which depends on me removing the propeller it seems.
The anode nor the propeller has any screws visible from outside, apart from the 3 allens that I removed when removing the blades.
So far I removed the 3 blades, and the central screw of the propeller.
However, it won't slide off. I noticed a crescent-shaped washer/locker inside, I think that's what holding it in place. How can I remove that?
Many thanks, -t

 

[rogerthebodger]

Normally to remove a prop from its shaft you can put tension on the prop with a pully extractor and then give the prop a hit with a hammer and the prop should release

 

[TSailors]

Here is a better photo:
it looks like a locking ring

 

[KevinV]

Here is a better photo:
it looks like a locking ring

If we're looking at the same thing that's just a splined shaft


Looks to me like a job for a puller and a firm tap with a hammer

 

[TSailors]

Unfortunately this thing is a bit different -- the locking thing after the nut ("b") was missing.
I ordered a puller from Amazon and will struggle once it gets here. Thanks!

 

[rogerthebodger]

Have a look at the epic KevinV posted as it looks like a socket screw locking the ut in place with a special shaped locking washer.

Remove the locking screw before sing the puller/hammer

 

[PabloPicasso]

Here is a better photo:
it looks like a locking ring

Maybe the spacer has been crushed in a bit by whomever put the prop on last time. Maybe the part circled here?

 

[Tranona]

Here is a better photo:
it looks like a locking ring

what you see in the middle is the end of the splined prop shaft. There is no other locking mechanism. The reason why you can't get it off easily is probably because the splines were not greased and it is just stuck. hopefully your puller will get it off OK, although not sure how you are going to use a puller. You might try 2 levers between the hub and the anode. the anode is held onto the drive by 2 set screws which you cannot access of course until the hub is off.

The anode does not look very depleted. Suspect the corrosion on the housing is due to the incorrect antifoul being used. That needs cleaning back, etch priming and coated with copper free antifoul such as Trilux made for use on aluminium.

 

[Sneaky Pete]

Just had same problem a couple of weeks ago. Hub seized solid tried a puller tried puller and large hammer. Couldn't move it was at it for many hours in the end took a wheel grinder to it. Had to replace hub, now have problems with new hub. See my recent post.

 

[Mistroma]

S

Just had same problem a couple of weeks ago. Hub seized solid tried a puller tried puller and large hammer. Couldn't move it was at it for many hours in the end took a wheel grinder to it. Had to replace hub, now have problems with new hub. See my recent post.

Shame. I was lucky with mine which is just an interference fit. I tried all the usual stuff. Squirting diesel in as penetrating oil. Cranking the puller quite hard and tapping with a hammer on each side at the same time.

Didn't work but I slowly poured a kettle of boiling water over the hub and then tapped. It flew off with a loud bang. Luckily, I had the forethought to tie it up with a line and stand behind the p-bracket so it didn't hit anyone.

 

[KevinV]

It flew off with a lid bang. Luckily, I had the forethought to tie it up with a line and stand behind the p-bracket so it didn't hit anyone.

When removing steering wheels it's good practice to leave the nut on (so you don't hit yourself in the face when it comes off) - any particular reason that wouldn't work on a prop?

 

[Tranona]

S
Shame. I was lucky with mine which is just an interference fit. I tried all the usual stuff. Squirting diesel in as penetrating oil. Cranking the puller quite hard and tapping with a hammer on each side at the same time.

Didn't work but I slowly poured a kettle of boiling water over the hub and then tapped. It flew off with a loud bang. Luckily, I had the forethought to tie it up with a line and stand behind the p-bracket so it didn't hit anyone.

But that was on a taper which is very different from a splined hub and shaft.

 

[Mistroma]

But that was on a taper which is very different from a splined hub and shaft.

But that was on a taper which is very different from a splined hub and shaft.

But that was on a taper which is very different from a splined hub and shaft.

Yes, I fully realised that. However, I'd still try diesel, puller, hot water and pair of hammers on that type. Just thought it worth mentioning in case someone didn't think of these points. All blindingly obvious of course, but you never know.

 

[Mistroma]

When removing steering wheels it's good practice to leave the nut on (so you don't hit yourself in the face when it comes off) - any particular reason that wouldn't work on a prop?

Good safety point. I actually remember backing off the nut and that's what I'd usually do elsewhere. However, I do remember the safety line and it flying off. It was a long time ago and I assume some reason for removing the nut. Possibly fitted something over the end because I was using a lot of force. Can't remember though. Still a good point.