Turning head / shower into wet room - old wooden boat

[cygnusv]

Had a great year this year - got lots done! Now in the mood for a job I've been putting off for a long time...

Our boat is old wood, launched in 1951. I want to turn our head into a 'wet room'. To do this I need to line the walls, including the fairly gentle curve of the hull, with a material that will waterproof the wood behind it. In addition, whatever waterproofing material I use must be capable of being removed for access to (in particular) the outer hull for maintenance etc.

Currently, all of our domestic water pipes are attached to the hull, so they will have to be re-routed under the deck to allow access for maintenance without disturbing the waterproof barrier.

What material are you aware of that is waterproof, lightweight, attractive and can be taken out (very) occasionally and will take the curve of the hull?

Many thanks, Stu

 

[Poignard]

Had a great year this year - got lots done! Now in the mood for a job I've been putting off for a long time...

Our boat is old wood, launched in 1951. I want to turn our head into a 'wet room'. To do this I need to line the walls, including the fairly gentle curve of the hull, with a material that will waterproof the wood behind it. In addition, whatever waterproofing material I use must be capable of being removed for access to (in particular) the outer hull for maintenance etc.

Currently, all of our domestic water pipes are attached to the hull, so they will have to be re-routed under the deck to allow access for maintenance without disturbing the waterproof barrier.

What material are you aware of that is waterproof, lightweight, attractive and can be taken out (very) occasionally and will take the curve of the hull?

Many thanks, Stu

Most of the old wood boats I have had anything to do with have been 'wet rooms' from end to end!

Seriously, I'd be very careful that in lining bulkheads and the hull I didn't do anything to interfere with the flow of fresh air between the surfaces. Otherwise rot will develop.

If you must do it, what about Formica? It will take a curve (although not a compound such as the side of a hull.

 

[TimBennet]

Seriously, I'd be very careful that in lining bulkheads and the hull I didn't do anything to interfere with the flow of fresh air between the surfaces. Otherwise rot will develop.

Indeed

 

[cygnusv]

Most of the old wood boats I have had anything to do with have been 'wet rooms' from end to end!

Seriously, I'd be very careful that in lining bulkheads and the hull you didn't do anything to interfere with the flow of fresh air between the surfaces. Otherwise rot will develop.

Which is why I say that we have had a very good year! The 'wet room' is going to be confined to the shower area as the rest of the boat is now (mostly) dry!

Welcome point about ventilation, whatever I use to line the hull will be 'stood off' and I'll be certain to ensure adequate airflow.

 

[[70521]]

Not a project I would ever do in a wooden boat.

Perhaps a GRP box in the middle of the saloon might work as there would be enough air circulating round that, but it would not be pleasing on the eye.

 

[Poignard]

Which is why I say that we have had a very good year! The 'wet room' is going to be confined to the shower area as the rest of the boat is now (mostly) dry!

Welcome point about ventilation, whatever I use to line the hull will be 'stood off' and I'll be certain to ensure adequate airflow.

Then I would use marine ply lined with Formica for the sides and a tiled floor (set onto a thick marine ply base) or use some kind of grp shower base.

I don't know how big your boat is, and what access is like, but you would be better able to make a good, leak-proof job if you could build your shower unit off the boat as a completed module, and then lift it in in one piece.

 

[Woodlouse]

Personally I'd just give the wood a good coat of gloss paint and seal any gaps with a silicon sealant of some sort. Wood doesn't mind getting wet. What it does mind is staying wet like it inevitably will behind waterproof linings.

I'd also look into providing some forced ventilation, so a fan of some sort and a vent in the deck to get the air circulating which will speed up drying in there no end.

 

[Stemar]

I think I'd want a water-repellent, but breathable finish in the wet room.

It seems to me that nothing you can do will be completely waterproof, so the only chance of not rotting the wood, long-term is for it to be able to breathe.

I've no idea if it would work, but we use this stuff on out floors at home, including the kitchen and the wood looks good and resists the worst that we've been able to throw at it. When it starts to get a bit tatty, we just wipe on another coat (maybe once a year). [http://www.rubiomonocoat.com/en/

 

[DoubleEnder]

bad idea. Wood needs air or it will go bad very fast

 

[RAI]

How about flexible waterproof material (PVC) that can be removed after showering.

 

[oldsaltoz]

It is doable but needs a bit of thought.
Have you considered making up a section that follows the hull shape from fibreglass that includes the ends rounded and facing inboard, this would ensure no leakage down the rear and give you an adjustable space between the hull and shower wall to provide ventilation.

If you also included the base to this section it would be very waterproof.

Construction could be as simple as a 4 mm ply backing glassed over and top coated with flow-coat to give an easy to clean surface.

The sides could be Formica on ply or any of the plastic based waterproof materials used in domestic showers. The curve on the back wall facing inboard would eliminate the need to seal the side walls.

This also means the whole thing can be removed at any time without a lot of fuss.

Just a thought.

Good luck and fair winds.

 

[cygnusv]

I think I'd want a water-repellent, but breathable finish in the wet room.

It seems to me that nothing you can do will be completely waterproof, so the only chance of not rotting the wood, long-term is for it to be able to breathe.

I've no idea if it would work, but we use this stuff on out floors at home, including the kitchen and the wood looks good and resists the worst that we've been able to throw at it. When it starts to get a bit tatty, we just wipe on another coat (maybe once a year). [http://www.rubiomonocoat.com/en/

Hi Steve

I've no idea whether I'd be able to use Rubio in the wet room idea, but I'm really glad you posted this because it does sound like a really good hard wearing product. If I don't use it for the shower area there are other areas where something like this would be very welcome.

You've put an extra '[' in the address so it doesn't work 'as is'. The corrected address is below. Again, many thanks for this idea. Stu

http://www.rubiomonocoat.com/en/

 

[Stemar]

Glad to be of help.

I do know it's infinitely better than varnish on house floors (did that once, never again). It's nowhere near has hard wearing as a good varnish, but a repair takes seconds and refinishing takes an afternoon for the whole ground floor at Chateau Stemar (3-bed semi).

In idle moments, I've wondered how it would do outside, but never got round to finding out. For stuff like rubbing strakes & grab handles, I use Cuprinol patio furniture oil, which needs 3 coats, but easily lasts a season for me.

 

[ffiill]

Personally I'd just give the wood a good coat of gloss paint and seal any gaps with a silicon sealant of some sort. Wood doesn't mind getting wet. What it does mind is staying wet like it inevitably will behind waterproof linings.

I'd also look into providing some forced ventilation, so a fan of some sort and a vent in the deck to get the air circulating which will speed up drying in there no end.

Second that-I went the other way with my GRP boat and am now reverting to paint and GRP

 

[heygreg]

Had a great year this year - got lots done! Now in the mood for a job I've been putting off for a long time...

Our boat is old wood, launched in 1951. I want to turn our head into a 'wet room'. To do this I need to line the walls, including the fairly gentle curve of the hull, with a material that will waterproof the wood behind it. In addition, whatever waterproofing material I use must be capable of being removed for access to (in particular) the outer hull for maintenance etc.

Currently, all of our domestic water pipes are attached to the hull, so they will have to be re-routed under the deck to allow access for maintenance without disturbing the waterproof barrier.

What material are you aware of that is waterproof, lightweight, attractive and can be taken out (very) occasionally and will take the curve of the hull?

Many thanks, Stu

This is really simple, and most of the advice about "wood" is correct, but not all. Not putting in a shower because it's wood? Bologna! What kind of nonsense is this? It's a boat, it gets wet, hello?
I had a wooden boat, 32 footer with the bathroom in the bow and built a shower some years back. Never had a problem because it was done correctly. Do we install showers in wooden homes, absolutely. Do we have leaks and rot issues, yes and no. If the job was done half azz then we'll have issues down the road. If the job was done correctly, it's good forever. No different on a boat. None what so ever.

The whole "breathing" saga is also nonsense. In the old days a roof deck had to breath. Not today. In a hurricane prone area we seal the hell out of our roof deck with adhesive membranes. We rely on other means to let the attic breath.
This is no different on a boat. Breathing and ventilation is an art that requires forethought and ingenuity, its about dynamic solutions. Work around the problem.

You will need to make the entire a shower room just like at home. You will start with a custom made basin out of fiberglass. Go with a 6" high perimeter ledge including doorway. Make a template out of cardboard or construction paper. Make it perfect. Your drain will be identical to a house except a P trap is not needed. 3" drain is all you'll need. The basin will be constructed just like a basis for you house in the sense that the wall panels will come down over the interior lip to ensure water goes into the pan. Very elementary.

You probably have a toilet in there, so your toilet hole will also be integrated into the basin. This is not rocket science. be sure to use marine grade plywood as your substrate material.

After that, you will use standard FRP Marlite fiberglass panels. You do not have to fasten to the ribs. You can build off the ribs if you like. I made a stainless steel cage and fasten to the ribs only at my corners.
You MUST use marlite sealants because it works best. These panels are used in commercial restaurants and are made to be hosed down OFTEN. The factory joining trims work great and will not seep water! Cutting FRP panels is NOT easy. You'll screw up once or twice then get the hang of it. Fitness is absolutely critical.

You do not need a shower ceiling. Use a shower wand and mount it so the max height is 5'. To rinse your head, squat or take the wand off. If the water is rough, sit your fanny down on the toilet and shower that way.

Next: Be sure to have strong hand rails all the way around. This is so important. Be sure to make your floor anti skid, or have some type of anti slip material on the floor. Either drain out directly and always above the water line or drain into an enclosed tank located in the stern. Use a sump to drain out, above the water line of course. I drained into a stern tank. Worked out GREAT!!!

Do not use 3M 5200 or 4200. It's too darn tuff should you need to disassemble in the future. Just use a high grade silicone. This will run you about 7.50 a tube.

Ladies LOVE to shower before they crawl under the sheets with us men. They also love shower wands so they can keep their hair dry and clean the rest.

What lady wants to snuggle a man all sweaty and stinky. Just the ugly ones.....right?

Forgot to mention. Your biggest headaches is the door. How to make a door that's water tight? I bought a brand new glass shower door 2' wide X 5'6" tall (custom made with stainless hardware) and made the basin to fit the door. On a boat you'll most likely require a swing out door. Keeping water in simply requires a two step threshold. A shower curtain is the cheapest means of keep water off the door and ensuring you won't have leakage. Since the basin is 6" tall around the perimeter, you shower curtain just needs to drop 3" below the door. Pretty simple huh? Put a door closer on your door so it doesn't slam around in case someone forgets to latch it.

Now, if you really want to get fancy. Just build a secondary drain trough outside the door that marries the deck surface. Super super easy.

I literally made my shower / toliet room 1' bigger. Moved the bunks forward, and shorten the kitchen area. Why? Because I do not cook down there and know very few people that do. It's insanely stupid. The only thing that's needed is a microwave/convection oven. That's it!!!! cooking is for outside on the deck, PERIOD!!!!! A real working shower with 70 gallons of water, hot and cold water, a real drain, soap, shampoo and conditioner is where it's at. Women (or wife) will come with you on a weekend get-away all the time. No shower? Forget it!

You MUST have a good decent exhaust fan. Nobody wants to leave a stink bomb. Add a small integrated heater to boot. Add a water proof electrical outlet with GFI for the hair dryer and curlers.

Disregard all the nae sayers and all the pessimism. Its a wood boat and there's a whole lot of water out there than can cause far more serious havoc.

Make your shower and be proud. And enjoy making love ON THE BOAT because this will make you love your boat more.

I sure wish we lived close by because I'd love to be a part of your project. It's fun as hell and immensely rewarding.

Cheers.

1959 35' Sedan Cruiser Vegabond