RobbieH
Well-Known Member
I've run the halyards, kicker, reef pendants, etc. back onto the cabin top so that I can adjust tension easily when under way.
The ropes run through spinlock jammers (5 each side of the companion way) , through holes in a cutwater on the cabin top and on to the winches (one each side of the cabin top).
Where the ropes exit the aft side of the cutwater the edges of the exit holes are sharp (cutwater is foam filled grp with s/s tubes epoxied in it to pass the ropes). This is not a problem for the ropes which have a fair lead to the winches but, because there are 5 jammers per side, inevitably some of the ropes do not have a fair lead.
I have already had the disagreeable and expensive experience of severing a perfectly good genoa halyard when trying to tension it. There isn't really space for a post with a turning pully on it so I am thinking of screwing a piece of hardwood (iroko) onto the aft side of the cutwater with holes drilled through it, each with a bellended chamfer to prevent a hard spot where the ropes 'turn the corner'. I know this will put marginally more friction in the system but seems like a reasonable solution all the same
The ropes are a mix of dyneema and polyester 8-10mm. Does anyone have any information on what the safe turning radius of dyneema and/or polyester is - because that will dictate the thickness of the wood I need.
Cheers,
Robbie.
The ropes run through spinlock jammers (5 each side of the companion way) , through holes in a cutwater on the cabin top and on to the winches (one each side of the cabin top).
Where the ropes exit the aft side of the cutwater the edges of the exit holes are sharp (cutwater is foam filled grp with s/s tubes epoxied in it to pass the ropes). This is not a problem for the ropes which have a fair lead to the winches but, because there are 5 jammers per side, inevitably some of the ropes do not have a fair lead.
I have already had the disagreeable and expensive experience of severing a perfectly good genoa halyard when trying to tension it. There isn't really space for a post with a turning pully on it so I am thinking of screwing a piece of hardwood (iroko) onto the aft side of the cutwater with holes drilled through it, each with a bellended chamfer to prevent a hard spot where the ropes 'turn the corner'. I know this will put marginally more friction in the system but seems like a reasonable solution all the same
The ropes are a mix of dyneema and polyester 8-10mm. Does anyone have any information on what the safe turning radius of dyneema and/or polyester is - because that will dictate the thickness of the wood I need.
Cheers,
Robbie.