Treatment for rusted steel in the bilge?

[Krusty]

It is time to try, once again, to de-rust and apply a new protective coating to steel plates under keel-stud nuts, etc, in a shallow bilge which inevitably gets oilskins-drainage, galley spillages and the occasional Bilgex clean-up through it.
Every time, I try a different treatment, hoping to find one that endures for more that a year or two. Galvafroid did not; Jenolite and a paint system did no better; Hammerite was a little better but harder to chip off. I am tempted to try Owatrol.
Has anyone found a treatment that really works in this environment?

 

[nedmin]

Ive found Comma Wax Seal good for keeping rust at bay,it flows better than Wax Oil,by another maker.The only prob is if you wasnt happy you have wax to get rid of!!.If your thinking of Owatrol,why not leave a bit and do with Wax Seal.Dont think you will be disappointed.

 

[MoodySabre]

MIne need doing too. My surveyor suggested that the plates and studs be brought back to shiny metal, primed with red oxide bare metal primer and then painted with keel primer.

That's what I'm going to do but there seems to be many different ideas, each one of which may be just as good. Time will tell.

 

[alienzdive]

without starting another thread and being on topic, I was looking at a steel interior recently, the hull was completed 25 years ago and the interior is covered in condensation, 10% of the panels have visible signs of surface rust bleeding or etching through the red primer.

Would anyone here suggest blasting the whole interior and priming from fresh as 25 years is a considerably long time, or treat only the effected panels??

 

[Clyde_Wanderer]

Hi Keith.
What about changing them for stainless steel plates, or galvenizing them?
What are they sitting on?
Remember we spoke about the backers on my boat? I noticed this morning when I started to clean the keel nut washers in my garage, that they are galvenized and in perfect condition after 25yr. What about getting them galvenized?

 

[Krusty]

As the plates and nuts are very close alongside and below sole-board bearers, there is no way to get at their full area and edges with power tools; it is all awkward handwork; so they cannot be brought back to 'bright metal' without removal. That would mean, in effect, loosening the keel and retightening; No!!
Comma Wax Seal does look like a possible alternative to Owatrol, but after the rust has been converted and bonded to the steel; I now have the Fertan treatment in mind for that.
My thanks for all contributions.

 

[mickshep]

I used an epoxy primer coating that had rust converters built in and could if I remember right be applied to steel with surface rust in damp conditions. The paint contained glass platelets that allegedly did wonders for its protective properties. The trade name was I think Corocoat or something similar. The company was based in Leeds and I was impressed by the level of solids in the paint. Mike.

 

[boatmike]

NO!

 

[Conachair]

I´ve got same problem with greater area - steel boat! Tried red oxide mixed with owatrol which seemed to work well but this time I´m giving this stuff a go - POR-15. http://www.por15.com/. Initial results seem very good. Very flexable, dries rock solid and seems extremely tough. Only time will tell of course but I´ve got high hopes. Can paint straight onto rust or clean metal, resistant to oil & battery acid. Single part and it´s true what it says on the can about getting it off your hands - it´s there ´til the skin falls off, week or so. Not cheap though. Available in uk from www.FROST.CO.UK. If anyone else has used this I´d be very interested in their longer term results.
Good luck
Padz - Conachair

 

[aitchw]

They are, indeed, a Leeds based company.

Product fact sheets.

 

[Krusty]

[ QUOTE ]
NO!

[/ QUOTE ]
That's very positively negative, 'boatmike', but to what? Something I'm proposing to do?
Would you care to expand,...just a little?

 

[Krusty]

Sorry, 'boatmike' I've just realised you have answered the question in my first post.
So there is no rust-treatment system that really works? OK.

 

[Billjratt]

In Spain they seem to have lots of "strong" goodies that we could use, in this case 'DESRUSTICANTE' available in swindleries and fereterias everywhere. I think it's nitric acid and it's done great work on tools and boat bits alike. It also cleans rust marks off fibreglass decks etc. but you have to be careful to not get bleached streaks. Better by far than oxalic.
Having prepared as above, hammerite seems to stay in place for years. I guess you have to source in UK via your local lab furnisher or chemist. The gist is - preparation is the important bit. (like everything in life)

 

[todka]

Is this any use to you - see
www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=7023
referring to the demise of Jenolite - Milkstone Remover is evidently a more affordable option