Treating woodwork

[single]

I'm fed up with varnish/wood stains and having to re-do the hand rails,toerails etc every year or two so i'm going to do a little experiment using a sample of all the commonly used wood protection paints available.Now i need suggestions of which ones to test and see how they cope over time,so which shall i try?

 

[Tranona]

Suggest you have a look through back numbers of both Classic Boat and PBO as they regularly report on just such tests carried out by Richard Hares over now nearly 10 years.

The broad findings are that Porous woodstains such as Cetol, Sikkens Novatec/top and flexible polyurethanes such as Coelan are the longest lasting. Woodstains are far and away the most economical over time in both material cost and labour. The downside of woodstains is that they do not have a shiny finish like conventional varnishes. The newest formulation is International Woodskin which does seem to have a better gloss. I have just done my boom with it. Early tests show it is durable. Previously I have used Sikkens which is now on its 10th year on the mast with only 2 extra coats from first application. So durable but has a heavily tinted matt finish.

Richard's results have been very consistent, although new formulations come on the market and old ones go, so the actual brands may not still be available. However he has covered all the main types of clear finishes so well worth hunting down the articles.

 

[Twister_Ken]

The ones used on external windows and doors at home never seem to last that well so don't put to much hope in finding a magic solution!

 

[Lakesailor]

I used some Sikkens on some "hardwood" cladding on a bungalow when we lived in East Yorkshire. It was almost paper-like, the sun had baked it snuff dry.

The Sikkens made it much better looking and seemed to halt any deterioration for the next 5 years, until we had it recovered in UPVC (wood-effect) cladding. I was most impressed.

 

[Jabs]

I use Cetol. Rub the wood down with stainless wire wool and loads of water. Allow to dry thoroughly then three coats of Cetol. The clear has a UV inhibitor included.
Recoat every few months and it looks like new!

Tony.

 

[Stemar]

I use cuprinol garden furniture oil on my grab handles and rubbing strake. A couple of coats make them look good and last a season. Prep's a quick wash & allow to dry before bunging the oil on.

 

[pvb]

You could always leave them bare. A lot less work. And better grip on handrails.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Living at a latitude of 26 degrees S and at an altitude of 2000 m above sea level this is quite a difficult environment for varnished wood outside.

I have had wooden garden benches outside for 5 years now where the wood is iroko and varnished with a product called Rystix Timbacare. I also use it on my boat that is in Durban at a latitude of 30 degrees S

http://www.silvatimber.co.uk/wood-care/rystix/rystix-exterior-sealer.html

http://www.ajsmith.uk.com/rystixtimbacare/rystix-timbacare.html

Any varnish I use outside I use the Natural/Light Yellow colour but inside I use the clear.

My boat has only a little wood outside but lots inside. The outside has had no maintenance since I launched her 5 years ago.

 

[single]

On the boat i have used Sikkens primer and Sikkens cetol filter+ this time from advice from previous posts.I'll still try different types on a piece of board left next to the boat.Standby a few years for results (by which time there will be new products!)

 

[Chanquete]

I use Cetol. Rub the wood down with stainless wire wool and loads of water. Allow to dry thoroughly then three coats of Cetol. The clear has a UV inhibitor included.
Recoat every few months and it looks like new!

Tony.

We live at 34 º latitude S.
During the last 5 years I am using Cetol for the external wood of my boat.
Light sanding and one coat every year is OK

 

[Hadenough]

I'm using Sadolin Ultra on teak as per the Richard Hare tests. Good so far, the first application of three coats just needs a top up now after two years. There is no flaking just a noticeable "thinning" of cover so I'll be giving it a light key with a scouring pad and one maybe two more coats. You need it experiment with sample pots to get the right colour but so far I am very pleased.

 

[single]

Also , for those that use Ebay, there is a seller there that sells damaged tins for about half the price! (Sikkens)

 

[donm]

Another vote for Woodskin. I have used Sikkens until now but it is no longer easily available - I believe that Woodskin is the replacement and it does have more of a sheen to it and seems to be more flexible so should not chip or flake. Will know more next year but early results on bulwark capppings/handrails/locker lids are encouraging

Suggest you have a look through back numbers of both Classic Boat and PBO as they regularly report on just such tests carried out by Richard Hares over now nearly 10 years.

The broad findings are that Porous woodstains such as Cetol, Sikkens Novatec/top and flexible polyurethanes such as Coelan are the longest lasting. Woodstains are far and away the most economical over time in both material cost and labour. The downside of woodstains is that they do not have a shiny finish like conventional varnishes. The newest formulation is International Woodskin which does seem to have a better gloss. I have just done my boom with it. Early tests show it is durable. Previously I have used Sikkens which is now on its 10th year on the mast with only 2 extra coats from first application. So durable but has a heavily tinted matt finish.

Richard's results have been very consistent, although new formulations come on the market and old ones go, so the actual brands may not still be available. However he has covered all the main types of clear finishes so well worth hunting down the articles.

 

[wazza]

Coelan is the solution. It's a lot of work in prep but well worth it as it will last & you won't need to re apply for many years...