ridgy
Well-known member
Have removed cover, split pin, and castellated nut.
What's next? Should the hub just come off or do I need to do something else?
What's next? Should the hub just come off or do I need to do something else?
Trailer hub removal
- Thread starter ridgy
- Start date
sogood
Active member
Unless there's a countersunk screw hidden on the face of the drum, it should slide off. Ensure that the brake isn't on, as it will bind against the drum. Either way it will be stiff, and a gentle tapping along the back edge of the drum can help to free it.
coveman
Active member
Yes, you should now be able to remove the hub,but if the brake shoes are rusted then tap around the hub with a lump hammer to try and free it. Hopefully by tapping and levering it should become free. The hub is cast so do not tap too hard or you could crack it. You can also slacken the brake adjuster which you should find on the reverse of the hub.
ridgy
Well-known member
Ok thanks I'll give it another go.
duncan99210
Well-known member
If you’ve got a puller, you could replace 2 of the nuts and use it to ease the drum off. If it doesn’t come off easily using the puller, fit the puller, put it under a bit of tension and then tap the drum. That should see it fall off easily.
halcyon
Well-known member
Does the drum come off ? looks part of the hub.
Back brakes full off, brakes wear drum and form a lip, stopping drum coming off.
Brian
Boater Sam
Well-known member
Put the wheel back on with something in the centre so that it bears on the end of the shaft ( may be an idea to put the nut back on a few threads ) and tighten the wheel nuts diagonally using it as a puller.
duncan99210
Well-known member
Hmm, could be right! If so, then it’s possible that using the method I suggested would remove hub and drum as a unit, probably not what is required! So tapping the drum after giving the studs a good squirt of PlusGas is probably a better way to go.
greeny
Well-known member
It may be advisable to use a hide mallet or some other "soft" hammer. Other wise you may be looking for new hubs.
Jim@sea
Well-known member
Using 2 large screwdrivers I would lever off the hub.
I found when I had the same hubs that when you pull the hub off part of the wheel bearing remains stuck in the hub, I would just buy a new bearing, remove the inner part of the bearing and slide the new bearing without the outer part into the hub. Although the part stuck in the hub may be worn slightly its inconsequential. Certainly not worth taking the hub to a garage to have the part pressed in.
Unless I am wrong, these bearings are the same no matter who makes the axles and if you take the old on to a bearing supplier they would/should have them on the shelf, probably cheaper that a well known trailer manufacturer.
I used to carry a couple of bearings as spares, if in the unlikely event I was on a motorway and a bearing collapsed I could hand a new set to the RAC man
And over the winter when in storage I would remove a hub and take it home. If somone was going to try and steal the boat they would have to turn up with a hub, wheel etc. I used to put a black plastic bag over the end of the axle so a thief would not know what was behind it, Good Luck.
I found when I had the same hubs that when you pull the hub off part of the wheel bearing remains stuck in the hub, I would just buy a new bearing, remove the inner part of the bearing and slide the new bearing without the outer part into the hub. Although the part stuck in the hub may be worn slightly its inconsequential. Certainly not worth taking the hub to a garage to have the part pressed in.
Unless I am wrong, these bearings are the same no matter who makes the axles and if you take the old on to a bearing supplier they would/should have them on the shelf, probably cheaper that a well known trailer manufacturer.
I used to carry a couple of bearings as spares, if in the unlikely event I was on a motorway and a bearing collapsed I could hand a new set to the RAC man
And over the winter when in storage I would remove a hub and take it home. If somone was going to try and steal the boat they would have to turn up with a hub, wheel etc. I used to put a black plastic bag over the end of the axle so a thief would not know what was behind it, Good Luck.
rogerthebodger
Well-known member
This is the proper tool
Or a homemade puller using a car jack
Or a homemade puller using a car jack
JumbleDuck
Well-known member
I agree. The hubs and drums are integral on the Rubery Owen suspension on my Hunter 490 trailer and have to be carefully coaxed off.
Just don't stand in line with the puller. A friend of mine left a hydraulic puller at full pressure overnight on a stuck rear hub once ... when he came back in the morning the puller and hub were lying about ten feet from the axle. Not something you want to be in the way of.
goeasy123
Active member
I think they're the same as on my trailer. The brake drum and hub are separate, but held together with the interference fit splines of the studs. Try this...
Put the nuts back on covering the end of the tread. Hammer them into the hub with suitably protected hammering situation.
Put the nuts back on covering the end of the tread. Hammer them into the hub with suitably protected hammering situation.
halcyon
Well-known member
Still running
I was designing those Rubery Owen axles in the 70's.But important to back of the brakes first before trying to remove the drum.
Brian
Last edited:
ridgy
Well-known member
Cheers fellas, reminded me that I had a hub puller in the garage. Came straight off.
Might need some more advice later about the coupling...
Might need some more advice later about the coupling...
rotrax
Well-known member
That is why an experienced bloke leaves the nut loose and flush on the stub axle when fitting and loading the puller on a tapered shaft.....................................
The OP's axle is, I believe a parallel one, so no issue there.
