Touching-in Coppercoat

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Aardee

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Hi,

Aardee was Coppercoated a few years ago, and we're generally delighted with the results. However, there are now a few small patches (all less than 20cm square) which seem to be flaking off.

Is it possible to "touch in" Coppercoat as a DiY job? - I'd assume it's a case of removing the loose stuff, keying the surface to be covered and feathering in the edges of the existing coating. Am I right, or is it a job best left to the professionals?

Thanks :)
 
Aardee said:
Hi,

Aardee was Coppercoated a few years ago, and we're generally delighted with the results. However, there are now a few small patches (all less than 20cm square) which seem to be flaking off.

Is it possible to "touch in" Coppercoat as a DiY job? - I'd assume it's a case of removing the loose stuff, keying the surface to be covered and feathering in the edges of the existing coating. Am I right, or is it a job best left to the professionals?

Thanks :)
Click to expand...

Yes it can be touched in. See the FAQs tab on their website http://coppercoat.com/ and the info tab for details of surfce preparation etc

IIRC Coppercoat offer a small pack for that purpose
 
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Yes, easy-peasy, as Vic describes. Absolutely no need for a pro.
Main issue is mixing small batches. You'll need accurate scales and small rollers. May even be worth asking around the yard in case anyone else needs similar work.
 
Aardee said:
Hi,

Aardee was Coppercoated a few years ago, and we're generally delighted with the results. However, there are now a few small patches (all less than 20cm square) which seem to be flaking off.

Is it possible to "touch in" Coppercoat as a DiY job? - I'd assume it's a case of removing the loose stuff, keying the surface to be covered and feathering in the edges of the existing coating. Am I right, or is it a job best left to the professionals?

Thanks :)
Click to expand...

Yes it is possible. Done it myself. But its awkward time wise. In my case it was repairing the coat on a lead keel so the sequence was:

1/ clean off all the old coating left on - when breeched, water travels between the coat and the lead so you do need to feather the edges until you are convinced you are past any travelling water. adbrade
2/ coat with epoxy. you may not need to do this but I did. 3 coats , solvent free, one day each
3/ coppercoat. 5 coats to be done at 10C or more ( they say 8 C) one after the other in a day. so ideally you want a warm day in summer.
4/ you need to protect against any rain or dew for 4 days.

Its really easy to apply being water based. just a bit picky about the conditions.
 
macd said:
Yes, easy-peasy, as Vic describes. Absolutely no need for a pro.
Main issue is mixing small batches. You'll need accurate scales and small rollers. May even be worth asking around the yard in case anyone else needs similar work.
Click to expand...

Precision probably more important than accuracy but you can get small digital scales with a resolution of 0.1 grams without spending a mint.
 
VicS said:
Precision probably more important than accuracy but you can get small digital scales with a resolution of 0.1 grams without spending a mint.
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all you need is disposable plastic or paper cups. Clear even better.

put 3 side by side and fill them to the same height. You can judge this with very good accuracy, certainly good enough for this.

the other tip is to use a hair dry to dry the patches between coats.
 
Elessar said:
all you need is disposable plastic or paper cups. Clear even better.

put 3 side by side and fill them to the same height. You can judge this with very good accuracy, certainly good enough for this.

the other tip is to use a hair dry to dry the patches between coats.
Click to expand...

I was assuming that being an epoxy resin system it would be important that the proportion of resin to hardener was measured accurately.

Presumably from what you suggest this is not that critical after all.

As a %age of the total how accurate should it be?
 
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VicS said:
I was assuming that being an epoxy resin system it would be important that the proportion of resin to hardener was measured accurately.

Presumably from what you suggest this is not that critical after all.

As a %age of the total how accurate should it be?
Click to expand...

Coppercoat is designed to be "yard monkey" proof.
They recommend the cup method. Because it's fairly foolproof.

Weighing the constituent parts and dividing is not ideal. I dont know even if part a and part b weigh the same. If not that further complicates your method. You cant weigh it in the pot to check because they are different pots.
The copper is heavier. Nor do I know the %age accuracy required. Compare by volume just works.
It may not work if mixing tiny quantities i suppose. But for 1/4 pot it's just fine.
 
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A solution is to buy copper powder on internet and make up some resin and mix it in. Do it by weight to sort of replicate the CopperCoat proportions.
That way you can make very small batches and not have a large expensive coppercoat pack going off in the garage.

It will look a little bit different but seems to be effective.

We have done this over several years [since 2006] to touch up the odd patch that has be damaged.

Re the scales, use the West System and the pumps and you are 'home and dry' Then add copper powder to make a thick mayonaise [ West measure] and slap it on!
 
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I used the Elessar prescribed method when I did a similar touch up job myself earlier this year. I bought a pack of plastic cups, picnic type, and measured out all the components before I started. So I had 4 cups with equal measures of the epoxy, 4 cups of hardener and 4 of copper, so 12 cups in total. Ensure that apart from abrading that the surface is clean white gel coat, degrease with meths, but its essential to allow this to dry thororughly, then prime with epoxy primer. Ideally you should use a solvent free product but I used Gelshield 2000 and left it 7 days (?) to thoroughly gas off. Two small roller trays will be needed, one in use the other going solid, between coats. Mini sponge rollers from B&Q are ideal for application.
 
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the little 25ml plastic pill cups that you get given in hospital are ideal for measuring out. Three of them filled to the brim with resin, hardener, and powder will coat when mixed about 2 sq meters


But more important, dont forget the good weather issue. my first attempts at repairs looked OK when launched but they had been got at by a light shower leaking down behind the plastic sheet. End of season, they had blistered.
 
Gwylan said:
A solution is to buy copper powder on internet and make up some resin and mix it in. Do it by weight to sort of replicate the CopperCoat proportions.
That way you can make very small batches and not have a large expensive coppercoat pack going off in the garage.

It will look a little bit different but seems to be effective.

We have done this over several years [since 2006] to touch up the odd patch that has be damaged.

Re the scales, use the West System and the pumps and you are 'home and dry' Then add copper powder to make a thick mayonaise [ West measure] and slap it on!
Click to expand...

THIS IS NOT A SOLUTION. DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS FLAWED ADVICE

Coppercoat epoxy erodes. To expose fressh copper. West system does not. This will only work as an antifoul until the outer layer of copper is corroded and spent.
 
Elessar said:
THIS IS NOT A SOLUTION. DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS FLAWED ADVICE

Coppercoat epoxy erodes. To expose fressh copper. West system does not. This will only work as an antifoul until the outer layer of copper is corroded and spent.
Click to expand...

As I suspected...thanks for clarifying.
 
Elessar said:
THIS IS NOT A SOLUTION. DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS FLAWED ADVICE

Coppercoat epoxy erodes. To expose fressh copper. West system does not. This will only work as an antifoul until the outer layer of copper is corroded and spent.
Click to expand...

I wondered about this.

Coppercoat say it is "a specially developed solvent-free epoxy resin"

but they also refer to it as "the non-eroding epoxy" !

Gwylan claims success !
 
VicS said:
I wondered about this.

Coppercoat say it is "a specially developed solvent-free epoxy resin"

but they also refer to it as "the non-eroding epoxy" !

Gwylan claims success !
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it does erode. Where do they say "non eroding" that is wrong.

They can't say solvent free either - that is wrong too! (the solvent is water)

Gwylan will successfully have a coppery looking bottom for sure. It can't work as an antifoul in the long term, whatever he says.
 
Elessar said:
it does erode. Where do they say "non eroding" that is wrong.

They can't say solvent free either - that is wrong too! (the solvent is water)

Gwylan will successfully have a coppery looking bottom for sure. It can't work as an antifoul in the long term, whatever he says.
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The info tab on their website

"Solvent" is generally taken to mean a volatile organic compound ( VOC)

Coppercoat™ is the combination of a specially developed solvent-free epoxy resin and high purity (99%) copper. Each litre of resin is impregnated with 2 kilos of ultra fine spherical copper powder, the maximum allowed by law, making Coppercoat™ the strongest copper based anti-fouling available. Indeed no other anti-fouling exposes as much active copper to unwanted marine life.

Unlike many paint companies we do not manufacture different types of anti-fouling for different styles of boats and/or particular locations. Instead, Coppercoat™ is only available in one full-strength hard-wearing version. The epoxy carrier is filled with the maximum amount of copper allowed by law and consequently will keep fouling at bay in virtually all conditions. Furthermore, while the non-eroding epoxy can easily withstand use by high powered motor-boats and racing craft this coating is equally effective on commercial vessels as well as less frequently used and slower moving leisure vessels.

Classified as non-leaching, this highly effective coating is considerably kinder to the environment than its self eroding competitors whilst continuing to deter growth year after year. Indeed, correctly applied treatments resist weed and barnacle growth for a decade or more! The complete treatment has been tested and approved by the Health and Safety Executive, in compliance with UK and EU law. Holding HSE Certificate Number 7532 our anti-fouling is fully approved for use by both professional tradesmen and the general public. Furthermore, Coppercoat™ fully complies with current (2001) International Maritime Organisation (IMO) Resolution MEPC.102(48).

Today Coppercoat™ alone has a proven lifespan of 10 years plus, with an unequalled continual sales record dating back to 1991. No other copper based epoxy anti-fouling has the enviable pedigree of the original… Coppercoat™
Click to expand...
 
VicS said:
The info tab on their website

"Solvent" is generally taken to mean a volatile organic compound ( VOC)
Click to expand...

yeah it is VOC free which is normally what they say. Interesting they say non eroding, in the antifoul sense it is, it doesn't materially erode like a soft antifoul. But compared to an epoxy it does.
 
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