Toplac

[Graham_Wright]

I'm preparing to paint a stripe around the hull and general advice has been to use Toplac.

The International website recommends Pre-Kote preceded by Solvent Wash 202.

I can't find 202 in the UK and is it really any better than acetone for example which is considerably cheaper?

 

[PaulRainbow]

Automotive "panel wipe" will be acceptable. It's all i ever use for pre paint wipe.

 

[Trundlebug]

Good luck with the Toplac.

My experience with it is that it's almost impossible to get a good finish.
It dries as soon you put it on and it won't keep a wet edge long enough to dip your brush in the tin to apply the next section. Brush marks show up with thin coats, it runs if you put it on any thicker.

It may be me, but others at our marina have had similar problems and have gone to other brands of paint as a result.

 

[Rafiki]

why on earth would you use paint at all. Use Vinyl - very cheap, easy to use, almost any colour you want, any fancy shapes you want, and if you dont like it just take it off. After 10 years it will still look good. If it's good enough for aircraft flying at 40,000 feet and landing where it is 40 degrees I'm sure it's good enough for your boat.

Regards

 

[Seajet]

If you mean ' vinyl wrap ' as on vans ( where it eventually becomes a structural component ) , doesn't that mean ' looks good for a while then hopefully somebody else's problem to remove and sort out' ?!

I find Toplac fine as long as it's thinned, say 20 % in winter, 10 % in summer - southern UK temperatures, not in deep winter - acceptable but not mirror finish.

 

[alahol2]

I use Toplac for my hull stripe. It paints easily but will run if used too thickly. It seems to need several weeks to go truly hard.

 

[PaulRainbow]

If you mean ' vinyl wrap ' as on vans ( where it eventually becomes a structural component ) , doesn't that mean ' looks good for a while then hopefully somebody else's problem to remove and sort out' ?!

Think he means "Vinyl", as used for boat names and van lettering. Same stuff that many boat manufacturers use. Same stuff that's still stuck to 40 year old Westerlies etc. If removal should be required, warm it up with a heat gun and peel it off (even after 40 years).

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

Is the boat new? I ask this because Solvent Wash 202 is intended to remove all traces of release agent. When I was doing some work for an up-market Italian yacht manufacturer this cleaning was done using ordinary vinegar - just as effective and does not come with a 'marine' price tag.

'My' method is to use a kitchen de-greaser (I use Chante Clair) for the cleaning followed by a good rinse with fresh clean water. Light rub down with 320 wet&dry paper. Wipe clean with a damp lint-free cloth or a tack-rag and mask off the area. Two-pack undercoat and two coats of two-pack top coat using a good quality natural soft bristle brush (Cinghiale or similar). I opt for two-pack because it stands up better to the inevitable knocks.

Re brush marks, if you use a good brush and apply the strokes smoothly along the line any marks would be invisible from a distance of one metre unless one has an exceptionally good eyesight.

 

[chrishscorp]

Good luck with the Toplac.

My experience with it is that it's almost impossible to get a good finish.
It dries as soon you put it on and it won't keep a wet edge long enough to dip your brush in the tin to apply the next section. Brush marks show up with thin coats, it runs if you put it on any thicker.

It may be me, but others at our marina have had similar problems and have gone to other brands of paint as a result.

What have you used instead of Toplac out of interest ? single pack i presume ?
I have to do some painting in the next couple of weeks over what i am guessing is single pack with prekote underneath, i realise i cant use 2 pack over single pack.

 

[rob2]

Some years ago (significant if the formulation has changed) we used Toplac to repaint the cockpit - some wood, some GRP. Using a brush to get paint to the edges and tight corners and the bulk done with a short mohair roller. Suitably thinned it worked well without premature drying problems. On the second coat we tried to lay off with the brush but it wasn't brilliant so the third (final) coat was left with the fine orange peel finish from the roller on the basis that in a high abrasion area like this the coating thickness was more important than ultimate aesthetics. At first we thought the paint wasn't tough enough to last, but after a couple of weeks it had fully cured and was more then adequate. I'm pretty sure the peel effect evened out a bit during drying.

Rob.

 

[ianj99]

I used this method without the laying off and was surprised how little the orange peel effect had on the gloss and is not really noticeable from more than a metre away. Many passers-by remarked how glossy the finish was.

However on my current steel yacht I did the coachroof sides and pilot house with a gloss roller and then laying off without problems but this was done under cover and in cool weather so no breeze or heat to cause too rapid a drying.

If you don't like Toplac, then Tekaloid coach enamel is an alternative which I have also tried but it was thinner than Toplac so runs were an issue. I think it was meant for spraying. Good gloss though.

Incidentally, the Toplac still has a decent gloss to it after 5years and is rarely washed or polished. I'd like to do the whole topsides with it as 2pack is too expensive and not a diy job but it will have to wait another year or so.