Toilet/waste tank 3 way valve

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Peter

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Had to split my toilet divertor valve to clean out limescale, tried every thing, including vinegar to kept clear. Anyway on refitting slight drip from valve, repeated a few times to see why, no obvious reasons o rings etc look ok. Can bypass with hose for now.
Question, to replace and looking to keep things simple, anyone tried using a Y piece and 2 ball valves to do the same thing?. If yes where did you get the ball valves from

Thanks
 
Can't see how that is any simpler than a switchable Y valve - but yes it would work but you have to remember to switch both valves each time rather than one. Nothing special about ball valves for this application. Any plumber's merchant will do. You will need barbed tails and you may well find that all that lot will cost more than the proper Y valve.
 
Peter said:
anyone tried using a Y piece and 2 ball valves to do the same thing?. If yes where did you get the ball valves from

Thanks
Click to expand...

I have used a T piece and two ball valves instead of three way valve for a long time and had no problems.
The photo shows outlet from holding tank (top), line to the left leading to pump out fitting on deck, line south via hand pump to discharge hull fitting.
I have a similar T + 2 in the pipe from the toilet for directing waste to discharge or tank.
Ball valves are common brass from any chandlers, although I have now replaced the through hull valves by DZR ones from ASAP Supplies.
toilet%20tee.jpg
 
Our gravity-fed tank connects with the head outlet via a T-tube. There is a normal seacock below the tank and the deck pump-out leaves the tank separately. To fill the tank, the main seacock is closed and the tank one opened. To empty it both cocks are opened. The straight-through function works whether the tank cock is open or shut, but when open it serves as a syphon-break.
 
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