Toilet Problems

[pissativlypossed]

We have a problem with the toilet, it will not pump water into the bowl, but when i fill the bowl from the shower it will pump that out, this indicates to me that the pump valve assembly is ok. My first thought was that the inlet hose from the seacock could be blocked but dont see how this could be possible, Is there a quick way of identifying the problem without actually striping the unit down? I have bought a spares kit just in case. The toilet is a Jabsco. Many Thanks.

 

[ccscott49]

I had exactly the same problem, it was the valve assembly in the top of the toilet, just under the handle, six screws, dead easy to do, read the instructions, as the control valve mujst be in one position or the other, cant remember which way, to allow the valve block to be removed and re-fitted.

 

[HeadMistress]

Jabsco manual toilets made in the last 5-6 years are notorious for the same problem: a defective wet/dry valve. The "valve" is actually just a little "gate" that swings to block or allow the flow of flush water...due to defect--most likely in tooling, but possibly in assembly--it hangs, usually in the "dry" position. Jiggling the wet/dry lever sometimes frees it, but that's likely to be only a temporary fix. Opening the pump as ccscott described to remove and reassemble it may also help for a while. Close the intake seacock first.

While you have the top off the pump, take the opportunity lubricate the pump with thick synthetic (non-petroleum based) teflon grease--the same grease that's in every toilet pump when it leaves the factory. Give it a healthy squirt...pump a few times to spread it all over the inside of the pump cylinder...repeat. Doing this at least once a year will keep the toilet pumping smoothly and reduce the friction that causes the kind of problems you're experiences...and also extend the time between the need to rebuild by reducing the wear on the rubber bits.

 

[Wiggo]

Nick2's had been like this for ever. Turned out some monkey had put the rubber valve in the top of the pump in upside down...

 

[pissativlypossed]

Thank's everyone.

 

[nedmin]

I once had the inlet blocked with leaves ? Take the top pipe off put a bit of hose on the outlet and put the end in a bucket of water.Incidently it is best to do this with antifreeze at season end as you can never pump the water out the top of the pump. Another tip, if you strip the self tappers on the top get a 2BA screw and nut , or similar size, file off the hexagons on one side of the nut until it just fits,bingo! Saves a fortune. Been in sanitation for 69yrs.!! first 2 helped by my Mother !!! Sorry Headmistress!!

 

[nedmin]

Further to my post dont forget to close the seacock!!

 

[bvickers]

I had exactly the same problem this weekend. Checked and re-checked all the seals, etc but it would not prime. Here's what to do; remove the white pipe that connects the back of the bowl to just below the pump handle - remove it at the handle end only (it won't have a jubilee clip) put your hand over the outlet from the pump assembly and pump a few times. I think that by doing this you are creating a back-pressure that is needed to prime the system - it worked for me. Also, if you're going to lubricate anything, make sure you lubricate the piston only - not the seals at the top of the pump.

 

[HeadMistress]

[ QUOTE ]
Also, if you're going to lubricate anything, make sure you lubricate the piston only - not the seals at the top of the pump.

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry to disagree, but the piston rod doesn't need any lubrication...it doesn't rub against anything. It's the seals and o-rings ON the piston rod that rub against the inside of the cylinder wall that deteriorate from friction due to lack of lubrication...which is why every new toilet leaves the factory thoroughly slathered throughout with sythetic teflon grease, which won't harm anything in the pump, and while it's water soluble, dissolves very slowly--which is the reason why new toilets continue to pump smoothly for a full season or more.

So there's no need to avoid getting it on any parts in the toilet...it's more important to make sure you use enough (if you're just gonna dab a little on the o-rings, you might as well just pour a little mineral oil down the toilet once a week for all the good that'll do) Avoid any petroleum-based lubricant however...petroleum damages rubbber.

 

[Planty]

Headmistress, on a similar but different matter. We have Electric / Macerator type loos on board, feeding into holding tank, very fine they are too, (wee wees only though on our boat) However as we have aft cabin, heads are lower than top of holding tank and pipe from aft to tank runs approx 5mts through boat. All fine except nowadays (2 years old) we have to be very careful to flush copious amounts of fresh water through head before going onto plane as the motion of getting up onto plane means any fluid in said pipe returns into bowl. Never yet overflowed but can be "smelly"

So to question, can one install a non return valve in this outlet pipe or is there one in it already? Instructions appear to have been followed by Sealine, no need for U bend in pipework as feeding holding tank apparently?? Would appreciate any thoughts. Also would preparatory bleach cleaners affect any of the workings?? Paul

 

[hlb]

Kiss tecnology Keep it simple stupid!! Fill bowl from shower thingy or bucket......pump......add cooking oil of your preference...pump...mended /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[HeadMistress]

Hayden, don't use cooking oil...it can become rancid in warm weather. If you insist on the never ending battle of just pouring something down the toilet every couple of weeks instead of a 10 minute job just once a year, use mineral oil (baby oil is mineral oil, btw).

Paul, the solution to your problem is simple: replace the joker valve in the toilet discharge...something that really should be done every year, every two years at least.

The joker valve is a non-return valve in the head discharge fitting--a "cup" that has a slit in the bottom and "lips" on the outside. Over time, waste and water passing through the slit stretches it--and the "lips"--till it can no longer close...left long enough, the slit just becomes a gaping hole that prevents the joker valve from serving any useful purpose.

Replacing it is a 5 minute job...just remove the discharge fitting from the pump and swap out the valves. When you replace the fitting, be careful not to overtighten the screws. The flange on the joker valve is also the gasket that creates the seal between the fitting and the pump...overtightening will cause it to pucker and leak.

Do NOT use bleach or any products containing bleach--nor ANY household chemical bowl cleaners, Lysol, pine oil cleaners, nor any petroleum based cleaners--in the toilet plumbing...they all break down rubber and hoses.

 

[hlb]

Ransid, dont talk about Mucky Farter as being Ransid!!! All this is good and well, but when my toilets packs in, it's just when some one is dieing for a poo and were up some creek some place. Talk about up a creek without a paddle, try being up the creek without some teflon coated watsit thingy stuff wot no one has ever heard of. Who's got rubber pipes anyway. Anyway as author of the indomidable Exploding Toilet Saga.. How do you dare you insult my authority on these matters of the most excrement importance. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[HeadMistress]

Well, when you put it THAT way..... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[bvickers]

Headmistress - the o'ring on the piston rod is called 'the piston' is it not? -

 

[HeadMistress]

Nope...it's called the o-ring. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The piston is actually only the metal shaft. However, it wouldn't be totally inaccurate to call the piston rod and everything on it the "piston rod assembly."

You can see what everything in a Jabsco manual toilet pump is called here:http://www.jabsco.com/prodInfo/overview/29090-2000_ev.pdf

When you check #28, don't let the word "piston" in parenthesis mislead you. If you look at the rest of the list, you see there are several other o-rings...the word in parenthesis only refers to where it goes...to make it clear WHICH o-ring goes where.

 

[stamfordian]

If it ain,t exploded it,s not broke!! <font color="red"> </font>