trowell
Active Member
....so I just need to know.....simply.... and to be sure,........please.....should i have an antisyphon valve on BOTH my toilet inlet and outlet....
thanks
thanks
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toilet anti syphon valves
- Thread starter trowell
- Start date
VicS
Well-Known Member
What type of toilet?
I asked before but did not get an answer.
If it is a Lavac, no not on either, just a pin hole at the highest point of the inlet.
If it is not a Lavac ... fit one and put all your toilet troubles behind you!
I asked before but did not get an answer.
If it is a Lavac, no not on either, just a pin hole at the highest point of the inlet.
If it is not a Lavac ... fit one and put all your toilet troubles behind you!
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trowell
Active Member
my toilet is a jabsco and i would buy the Lavac that you recommend but mine is brand new!
VicS
Well-Known Member
Yes the if the rim of the toilet is less than 8" above the water line.
The snag is that if the one in the outlet gets a bit leaky it sprays you with sewage.
The one in the inlet must go between the pump and the toilet bowl.
If it is between seacock and pump it will always allow air to enter and you wont get any flushing water.
What do the installation instructions say?
But with the modern "twist n lock" pump I think you can safely not fit a vented loop to the outlet.
The snag is that if the one in the outlet gets a bit leaky it sprays you with sewage.
The one in the inlet must go between the pump and the toilet bowl.
If it is between seacock and pump it will always allow air to enter and you wont get any flushing water.
What do the installation instructions say?
But with the modern "twist n lock" pump I think you can safely not fit a vented loop to the outlet.
trowell
Active Member
ok this information will certainly will help. i will get the instructions and read them again. i cannot remember where the inlet a/s is in relation to sea cock/ pump nor do i know where the water line is in relation to the toilet rim.... i check and report back
many thanks for your time
mitiempo
Well-Known Member
On a Jabsco toilet the inlet goes to the pump base, from the top of the pump it goes to the back of the bowl, The anti siphon loop goes between the outlet at the top of the pump and the back of the bowl as VicS posted.
I gave up on those things and bought a Lavac and find it the best I have used and maintained.
I gave up on those things and bought a Lavac and find it the best I have used and maintained.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Seawater level lies about three inches up my toilet bowl. There has never been a loop on the inlet side, as fitted out originally by Sadler and with the replacement toilets that I have installed. Water leaking into the toilet has never been an issue. The outlet has a loop that reaches approximately 3 ft above sea level, so probably well above when heeled. That has never had or needed a siphon break. That is also as fitted out by Sadler, as far as I know.
Bilgediver
Well-Known Member
Doesn't mean its best practice and with a 40 footer exactly like this there was panic stations in our marina when the boat went down slightly by the head at which point the toilet started to overflow and the sinking became much more rapid till the toilet was isolated. An anti syphon loop would have prevented this.
Many Westerlies were built with self flooding toilets!!! If the sea cocks were left open at sea then heeling the boat could fill the bowl. Doesn t mean its correct!
VicS
Well-Known Member
I think you are answering a different question to the one the OP asked.
He asked, "should i have an antisyphon valve on BOTH my toilet inlet and outlet...."
the answer to that is, "Yes"
If he had asked, " does everyone have an antisyphon valve on BOTH toilet inlet and outlet...." the answer would have been "No".
......... 
........... rob2
Well-Known Member
It's rather like people who ask "Should I have a gas isolation solenoid and bubble leak detector?" It depends how you use it...
My Jabsco does not have a syphon break in the loops on either of the lines, but I insist that the seacocks are closed once the paperwork's done and business transacted. This is despite the fact that I have sailed her hard with them open to see if it syphons - and it didn't. I don't like the idea of a fine spray of effluent as hair tonic (although it might just work!?).
Incidentally, whilst trying to cause a syphon, I discovered that on port tack the water tank is higher than the sink and empties into it, so now I have a tap on the tank outlet and leave the sink seacock open. But why does the sink waste exit below the waterline, when it could so easily go out the topsides?
Rob.
My Jabsco does not have a syphon break in the loops on either of the lines, but I insist that the seacocks are closed once the paperwork's done and business transacted. This is despite the fact that I have sailed her hard with them open to see if it syphons - and it didn't. I don't like the idea of a fine spray of effluent as hair tonic (although it might just work!?).
Incidentally, whilst trying to cause a syphon, I discovered that on port tack the water tank is higher than the sink and empties into it, so now I have a tap on the tank outlet and leave the sink seacock open. But why does the sink waste exit below the waterline, when it could so easily go out the topsides?
Rob.
Vara
Well-Known Member
Jabsco.
After a syphoning incident through the inlet pipe, overnight so not disastrous.
I fitted an inlet a/s valve and a new twist lock pump.
Have had no further problems despite trying to initiate one.
Not impressed with Jabsco, saving up for a Lavac!
After a syphoning incident through the inlet pipe, overnight so not disastrous.
I fitted an inlet a/s valve and a new twist lock pump.
Have had no further problems despite trying to initiate one.
Not impressed with Jabsco, saving up for a Lavac!
Caer Urfa
Well-Known Member
Here yo go, fitted to both inlet and outlet + sea cocks, who knows what the weathers going to be like!
And a Jabsco toilet!
Mike
And a Jabsco toilet!
Mike
red beard
Well-Known Member
I put one on the inlet as when you are pumping air is sucked in and there are no leaks but would imagine on the outlet you are going to get leaking sewage and smells. Makes sense to have it on both but dont fancy the side effects, would be interested to hear if this is true or not.
mitiempo
Well-Known Member
There should be no leaks or smells. Unless clogged the anti siphon is designed to let air in but not let anything out. Mine has no smell whatsoever.
pugwash60
Well-Known Member
Slightly off topic, but I have a lavac which occasionally siphoned from the inlet, I put a pin hole in the top of the inlet hose and then found that the pump wouldn't suck in enough water so had to re seal it with self amalgamating tape. I continue to use the 'turn off the sea cocks' method. Incidentally, when sailing hard I manged to get the galley sink below the water line so now also turn off all the sea cocks when sailing.
mitiempo
Well-Known Member
There should be a pinhole at the top of the intake loop on a Lavac. They supply 2 small plugs with holes in them, one slightly larger than the other. Which one is used determines how much water is left in the bowl. If you are using the diaphram pump that comes with a Lavac you should have no problem pumping with the pinhole in the intake. If you do I'd suggest looking for other airleaks that shouldn't be there or possibly the pump needs a rebuild.
pugwash60
Well-Known Member
It's a Henderson pump and seems to be working fine, I don't think I have any leaks as if I turn off the seacocks there is still a vacuum after 12 hours. I made the pin hole by heating a pin and sticking it through the inlet pipe, maybe a normal pin sized pin hole is too big?
VicS
Well-Known Member
I reckon you made the hole too big. I cannot say I have ever tried a pin in one of the Lavac inserts but a heated pin could well make a hole that is too big.
Either continue as you are, but doesn't that mean you either have bowl full of water or a vacuum that prevents you lifting the lid, or get the proper little insert. Drill a 5mm hole and fit it.
As mentioned they come in two sizes , but both are supplied together. They suggest using the black one for installations near or above the water line and the white one for installations below the water line.
pugwash60
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I'll look into getting one of the inserts, although it's not high on the priority list at the moment. (Storm jib and leaks to fix).
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
I has a similar issue when I refitted my old Lavac to my new boat. I got a new siphon break and changed the rubber valve with a plug with a 1mm die hole in it as recommended by the forum. It did not work very well and was going to try to get the supplied ones from Lavac. Until then I refitted the rubber valve and it worked very well so I left it.
Can't remember what make the siphon break is but could be whale looking at the cost.
BTW the rim of my Lavac is below the static water and I don't get any water overflow even when sailing and the only time I close the seacocks is when I leave the boat for more than 2/3 days.
Can't remember what make the siphon break is but could be whale looking at the cost.
BTW the rim of my Lavac is below the static water and I don't get any water overflow even when sailing and the only time I close the seacocks is when I leave the boat for more than 2/3 days.