tohatsu 3.5 2stroke ob cover removal ?

simonfraser

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this should be simple ?

there are six bigish philips screws, galvanized looking
removing all those does not release the cover

surely i dont have to undo all the shiny ss screws on either side of the central seam too ?

where is the catch that just undoes the cowl ?

yep i did look in the manual, now you're gona point out the obvious ....
 
Yes all of the screws along the joint, but on one side only, either side, but not both sides. This will allow you to remove the covers, while not losing the little clips.
There is no catch!
Put the little clips straight, so they line up on reassembly.
Lucky these motors hardly ever need looking at..
You can choose to leave off a bit of the cover, under the cylinder head, for better access, but that does allow the splashes in, so you need better access...
I find them most reliable when all the splashes are totally kept out. There is a free manual/parts list on the web, sorry cant do a link.
 
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With one side off not a lot left holding the other side on.

See diagram at http://www.boats.net/parts/search/T...2/MOTOR COVER & INTEGRAL FUEL TANK/parts.html

Not exactly rocket science.

Carb diagram at http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Tohatsu/Outboard/2005/M3.5A2/CARBURETOR/parts.html

Or see the official parts website at

http://tohatsuoutboardparts.com/Parts-Books.html

if the OP cant get the cover i would respectfully suggest he goes no further but find a competent person to service the ob
 
if the OP cant get the cover i would respectfully suggest he goes no further but find a competent person to service the ob

You said it ............ I tactfully kept my thoughts to myself :)

At least there are no pitfalls with this one, unlike the 4 hp Johnnyrudes !
 
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if the OP cant get the cover i would respectfully suggest he goes no further but find a competent person to service the ob

One learns from one's mistakes - the slow-running jet is on the carburettor body, on the port side. Unscrew to increase, screw in to reduce.
Not a job requiring the cowl off, but definitely one that needs doing with the engine running.
For that reason I'd support the above suggestion - most don't have a proper tank to run it in.
The other possibility is a sticking carburettor slide.
Great engines the Tohatsu3.5/Mariner/Mercury3.3 - go for ever and plane a single occupant V-bottom dinghy, weigh 50% of their comparable 4 stroke brethren and can still be bought as grey imports all round the Med. Only weakness is in the little bearing beside the gearchange lever. Swells and stops things working - the worst thing to use to free it is WD40.
 
I thought the idle speed screw was on the starboard side.
There should be a hole in the casing to stick a scredriver in.

Carbstarboardside.jpg
 
I thought the idle speed screw was on the starboard side.
There should be a hole in the casing to stick a scredriver in.
Both your photo and the parts diagram seem to agree that its on the starboard side. ( but its the operator's left when facing it!)

Taking the cover off is no big deal and it will enable the throttle mechanism to to be checked for proper operation
 
Both your photo and the parts diagram seem to agree that its on the starboard side. ( but its the operator's left when facing it!)

Taking the cover off is no big deal and it will enable the throttle mechanism to to be checked for proper operation

Just going to show how memory fails in the aged - looked @ mine and it's on the starboard - with a little hole in the cowling to allow tactical interference.
Usually no problem with the throttle mechanism but frequently with the slide inside the barrel. Removing cover takes about 1:30' and the carb a little longer about 2:50'.
If dismantling the carb look out for the needle cut-off valve - it tends to go walkabout.
 
Just going to show how memory fails in the aged - looked @ mine and it's on the starboard - with a little hole in the cowling to allow tactical interference.
Usually no problem with the throttle mechanism but frequently with the slide inside the barrel. Removing cover takes about 1:30' and the carb a little longer about 2:50'.
If dismantling the carb look out for the needle cut-off valve - it tends to go walkabout.

An hour and a half to remove the cover? Obviously more rocket science involved than I expected..... perhaps that includes the countdown.
 
An hour and a half to remove the cover? Obviously more rocket science involved than I expected..... perhaps that includes the countdown.

That is including the travel time to the boat and making a cup of tea before you actually to work. About 1 hour 28.

And then usually 2 mins looking for something that you've dropped.
 
I have one of these great little clockwork yoyos bought as a stopgap while I am waiting to hear from Budget Marine/Tohatsu on the warranty claim on my big Tohatsu.

It had been stored for 6 months with fuel in it and the residue kept blocking the carb. I could remove both side panels, the carb bowl, clean the jets and replace in about 10 minutes or less.

It is worth while removing the whole fuel line from tank to carb including the tap and making sure it is clear. Mine had gunge in it.

Running well now in both tortoise and rabbit mode.
 
It had been stored for 6 months with fuel in it and the residue kept blocking the carb. I could remove both side panels, the carb bowl, clean the jets and replace in about 10 minutes or less.

I manage the same had fuel issues for a whilst I never cleaned the jets but did ditch the old fuel. Took a whilst to pull the dirt but now runs like a dream...

As you say 10 mins easy covers on and off....
 
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