Thru' deck flue

[Scarboroughsloop]

Thru\' deck flue

As it has got rather chilly of late, I am going to fit my solid fuel heater. The quandry I have is the passing of the flue through the deck.
I know of the water cooled deck iron with the channel to hold cooling water, but my second hand heater came with 2 steel plates that fit tightly around the flue. I guess the hole through the deck should be cut oversize and the flue is held in plave by the plates? Does this sound like a reasonable way to pass the flue through the deck? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Mirelle]

Re: Thru\' deck flue

Well, frankly, no! The two plates will get hot enough to set fire to the deck.

The method that I recommend is to use a water cooled deck iron, and pass the flue through the inside of it, caulking the gap with stove string and fitting some flashing over that to keep water out. The more usual method is to fit the flue over the casting but that makes the casting part of the flue and it gets hot.

 

[mclark]

Re: Thru\' deck flue

I have had a solid fuel stove in White Heather for the best part of 20 years. I have a Davies cast iron water cooled deck flange in place with a 4" flue at a length of about one metrebeneath the deck.

I rarely put water in the flange, although of course the rain fills it now and again. I have never set fire to the deck but the planking in way of the flange has dried out quite a bit. I have deliberately not put lagging around the pipe prefering a guard instead so that the flue can cool better and I get the benefit of that heat inside the boat.

I would say use a water cooled flange by all means but practically speaking if used with care the flue shouldnt heat enough to set fire to the deck but starting using it slowly whilst checking would soon prove this. As a precaution you can use an asbestos washer or silicone sealant (good for very high temperatures) between the flange and the timber to minimise heat transfer.

If I can help any further please let me know.

 

[Mirelle]

Re: Thru\' deck flue

I suppose one issue is whether you expect to keep the stove lit when you are away from the boat.

I do, which may account for my finickiness about it. At this time of year, I like to light the stove when I get aboard, and leave it to go out of its own accord when I go ashore again.

 

[mclark]

Re: Thru\' deck flue

No harm at al in being cautious but as I say from my own experience if you have a bit of length on the underdeck pipe and cooling air round it it will be kept down to a reasonable temp - but check it first to be sure the temp is not unreasonably high.

 

[Scarboroughsloop]

Re: Thru\' deck flue

Thanks guys,

Whilst I do not intend to use the stove whilst I am not on board, I think it would be prudent to fit the stove so that it could be left a light if needed (wanted). I would have a minimum of 1 metre between the stove and heater, so should not get too hot, but I think with this it is better to be safe than sorry.

With the watercooled flange, dose the water not empty itself when sailing?

 

[trouville]

Re: Thru\' deck flue

I dont know if this applies, My diesel heater which the chinenys VERY hot also goes through the deck. I have two old non asbetos clutch plates from a car breakers (free)the out pipe screwed to thee on deck and the chimny from below plugs in without touching deck theres a 1/2 inch gap on the diameter.

The heat cant get to the wood nor can the spray get in via the seal!!!!

 

[Mirelle]

Re: Thru\' deck flue

I reckon you have the answer to the original question. Neat idea.

 

[trouville]

Re: Thru\' deck flue

Mirelle thanks! I better add to my post! The used clutch lineings were just luck as they were a suitable size for my tailors deck flange.Later someone in the same port fitted an old but good reflex,his chimney by chance also had the diameter of the pipeing,we made a wooden deck flange to make a water proof joint the flange with sealent to the cabin top then a hozizontal (not slopeing cabin top)top of the flange and the heat proof material sealed to the hot pipe.

we used gun gum, then when i went to get my antifouling (in Italy) i found a workshop that made break and clutch plates! They cut the material to our exact sizes cost then was 70,000lire or about £20 (for two)

Im sure the same can be found in the UK,perhaps costing more!! Italians are wonderful generous helpful people (except the ones that own the new marinas)and it was always great fun looking for parts paint etc, I hope the EEC hasent banned total small enterprises yet?

Ill try some silicon on the hot part of my chimney i would never have thought of useing that!!!A good post thanks will come in handy next time i want to make a chimney joint no more of thenew gum gum then!!