The Spanish Rias

westhinder

westhinder

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We are going to the Spanish Rias this summer. The plan is to leave end of May, go downchannel and do a crew change in Camaret or Brest, from there cross Biscay to the NW corner of Spain. I hope to have four weeks to sample the Rias before heading back across Biscay and home to Belgium. In all I have seven weeks to play with.
I have been to A Coruna and Vigo but the rest is new to me. I would welcome all suggestions of places not to miss. I am still in two minds whether to aim for A Coruna when crossing the Bay, or to go further South. My natural inclination is to try and reach the furthest point of the trip and then start the return leg in short hops.
Looking forward to hearing from all you who have been there and done it
 
We visited Ribadeo and Vivero, on the way down. Also chose to stop in Sada over A Coruna.

The marinas in Sada are right in the town centre as opposed to the outskirts in Coruna. There are lots of good restaurants on the sea front and easy walk to supermarket.
Ribadeo has a decent marina and lovely town centre..... up a veery steep hill!

The crossing is almost the same distance from Coruna to all of Brittany from Les Sables up to Camaret.
 
My tip is to go into Cedeira instead of A Coruna after Biscay - great sheltered anchorage and very quiet, you can get your rest there and then hop over to the bustle and swell of Coruna the next day. Don't miss the park around the Torre de Hercules, there's more to see there than just the lighthouse.

Our favorites were Corme (shelter, sandy beach and free wifi covering the entire anchorage) and Muxia (cute little town and you can wander a bit along the pilgrim path either up into the forest or to the church with the wobbly rocks). We liked the quieter Rias Altas better than the crowded Bajas.

See here for our notes from cruising this area last year: https://sdfjkl.org/blog/2017-07-27-biscay/
 
Ribedeo can be horribly rolly in a northerly wind, very common on the N coast in summer. Vivereo or Ortigeueria are a lot more sheltered. The weather on the N coast can be dreary- that same N wind picks up moisture from Biscay, and when it hits the coastal mountains it drops the lot- it's why the area is so green. I read somewhere that it has a similar rainfall to Ireland- certainly felt like it when we were there. I'd endorse the suggestion to go for Cederia. It's easy to enter and very sheltered. And from then on south the weather is much more reliable. Be aware that these northerly winds tend to increase round Finnistere and together with a significant swell along this coast can make getting back bloody hard work!
 
Ceidera is an alternative landfall, easy and safe in all weather conditions.

In your cruise plan, allow for summer northerlies. They're often quite strong. So my plan has always been to go south quickly, then beat northwards ria by ria until the time comes to go home - or lay up!

I've written a cruising sailor's guide which compares the various rias and their attractions. It's at http://www.jimbsail.info/tidal-europe/galicia. This should help you plan your trip!

Or just google "jimb rias"!

JimB
 
If you're heading south, with the wind and decide to turn into the Ria behind Cap Finistère, do not shake out the reef! You may not need to ask how I know! I think the wind accelerates at every headland on that coast, it's really not a problem, if you don't make stupid decisions!
Try to be somewhere that celebrates St John's day (23rd June). The fires etc are spectacular. We were in Camariñas a couple of years ago, the entertainment started about ten and finished around six in the morning. We had spoken to a couple on a boat who decided to anchor off the beach for a good view. when we met them months later, the first thing they said was it was a mistake!
Allan
 
My recommended landfall is Ares. Just across the bay from Coruna. Easy wide sandy bay, enough room to anchor a battle fleet. Just the job after a Biscay crossing.

Another vote for Camarinas, which is a good spot to head home from. Beware the Portugese Trades make it hard work heading north, unless you play the night lees. ie head off as soon as the wind dies down in the early evening, go like stink and get in before the wind builds at 09:00
 
I went down to the Rias in 2013, and put a write up HERE.
I wanted to get to Portugal in 2015, but the wind blew me east along the north coast, so spent the summer there. If the same happens to you, then write up is HERE
I got to Portugal last year but definitely prefer the Rias.
The joys of retirement :)
 
jimbaerselman said:
Ceidera is an alternative landfall, easy and safe in all weather conditions.
Click to expand...

Lovely place, but when we arrived there we discovered (on a new chart) they'd put the entrance light on the wrong headland (human error) , we had a few moments in the big swell wondering if GPS or chart was right, and which side of the headland we should go. The wrong side would not have been good.
 
Neil_Y said:
Lovely place, but when we arrived there we discovered (on a new chart) they'd put the entrance light on the wrong headland (human error) , we had a few moments in the big swell wondering if GPS or chart was right, and which side of the headland we should go. The wrong side would not have been good.
Click to expand...
That is the soort of problem you’d rather do without.
When was that and on which chart? Was the info in the pilot/almanac correct?
 
The rias are nicer in the Spring or Autumn far fewer holiday makers,empty anchour ages and more chance to meet the locals and there is not that annoying northerly and flat cams till midday.....and the water is really cold even on a scortching hot day!
 
One word of warning - We were anchored in one of the rias and enjoying a quiet supper after dark when there was a loud crashing and banging and the cabin door was yanked open by a squad of gun-toting police in black combat gear and heavy boots wanting to know what we were up to. It was a hell of a shock but fortunately they seemed satisfied by our answers and left after a few minutes.
 
It was a 2002new Imray chart that covers southern Biscay, I had an old pilot book which I considered might have been out of date but it was the new chart that was wrong. We went in very cautiously but it was other clues like the shape and height of cliffs that we used to guide us. For a first time entering at night it's quite a scary coastline but Cedeira is a lovely anchorage and actually quite a safe wide entrance.
 
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