Mr Googler
Well-Known Member
For those who showed an interest I changed the prop shaft seals today and it was pretty straight forward...ish.
All credit has to go to spannerman. He is the pups as they say.
I followed his intructions below:
Hi Paul, you need to take out the two hex bolts behind the round anode, then you can tap the bearing housing out of the leg, I use a paint scraper to get it started about 1/2" back here is a join, then you can get 2 screwdrivers in and work it out of the leg, the thin inner axle stays in the drive.
You pull the bearing housing of the outer axle and then you can remove the seals. The large outer seals just go in with the inner one facing in and the outer seal facing outwards, grease them well and pack the space between them with grease also.
The smaller inner shaft seals have a set of instructions with them, as the seals are different and the inner one only goes one way, grease these the same way.
I use a suitable socket to drift them in, a tip on reassembly is place the plastic bag the seals came in over the large outer shaft before you slide the bearing housing over it, it will protect the new seals from being damaged by the serrations on the outside of the large shaft, then pull it off when its fully on, you will see what I mean when its in front of you.
I always replace the 2 'O' rings behind the bearing carrier at the same time, grease them to aid reaasembly.
Then refit the bearing carrier complete with outer shaft over the long thin inner shaft and tap it home, rotate the outer shaft to make sure the gear teeth mesh or it won't go fully home and refit the twohex bolts.
Fill with around 2.8 ltr of oil and the job is done.
regards Steve
What actually happened was the bearing housing on one leg was a bitch to get out but came out in the end.
The outer shaft just comes out and hey presto you can see the seals. The outer seal is easy to remove. The inner is a bit more difficult. I used a small screwdriver and as long as you get the tip on the harder bit of the seal it comes ok.
Everything looked spot on inside, no rust or obvious scoring so greased everywhere and started to put back together.
The afore mentioned bearing housing was still being difficult but got it tight and used plenty of sealant.
The only cock up of the day was the bolt that holds the prop cone on snapped. That terrible feeling as you feel the head stretch /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif. No great shakes as plenty of the bolt was still showing so just turned it out with a pair of grips.
I guess the proof is in the pudding (or water) so have to see what everything looks like at the end of the season (or before if it goes bang!)
Sorry I didnt take any pictures but I was greasy all day.
A big thankyou to everyone for their advice and now just waiting for injection pump to come back from repair (twas knackered) and off we go. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
All credit has to go to spannerman. He is the pups as they say.
I followed his intructions below:
Hi Paul, you need to take out the two hex bolts behind the round anode, then you can tap the bearing housing out of the leg, I use a paint scraper to get it started about 1/2" back here is a join, then you can get 2 screwdrivers in and work it out of the leg, the thin inner axle stays in the drive.
You pull the bearing housing of the outer axle and then you can remove the seals. The large outer seals just go in with the inner one facing in and the outer seal facing outwards, grease them well and pack the space between them with grease also.
The smaller inner shaft seals have a set of instructions with them, as the seals are different and the inner one only goes one way, grease these the same way.
I use a suitable socket to drift them in, a tip on reassembly is place the plastic bag the seals came in over the large outer shaft before you slide the bearing housing over it, it will protect the new seals from being damaged by the serrations on the outside of the large shaft, then pull it off when its fully on, you will see what I mean when its in front of you.
I always replace the 2 'O' rings behind the bearing carrier at the same time, grease them to aid reaasembly.
Then refit the bearing carrier complete with outer shaft over the long thin inner shaft and tap it home, rotate the outer shaft to make sure the gear teeth mesh or it won't go fully home and refit the twohex bolts.
Fill with around 2.8 ltr of oil and the job is done.
regards Steve
What actually happened was the bearing housing on one leg was a bitch to get out but came out in the end.
The outer shaft just comes out and hey presto you can see the seals. The outer seal is easy to remove. The inner is a bit more difficult. I used a small screwdriver and as long as you get the tip on the harder bit of the seal it comes ok.
Everything looked spot on inside, no rust or obvious scoring so greased everywhere and started to put back together.
The afore mentioned bearing housing was still being difficult but got it tight and used plenty of sealant.
The only cock up of the day was the bolt that holds the prop cone on snapped. That terrible feeling as you feel the head stretch /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif. No great shakes as plenty of the bolt was still showing so just turned it out with a pair of grips.
I guess the proof is in the pudding (or water) so have to see what everything looks like at the end of the season (or before if it goes bang!)
Sorry I didnt take any pictures but I was greasy all day.
A big thankyou to everyone for their advice and now just waiting for injection pump to come back from repair (twas knackered) and off we go. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
