Tensioning a Selden Furlex 200S

xeitosaphil

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Hi all I wonder if I could get some info please. I would like to tension my forestay (masthead rig) as it is slack and I don't want any more bend in the mast by using the backstay. I have the type of furler that is adjustable and have a manual that came with it when new. It tells me how to do it, but not whether you have to remove the rope drum and guide?
Is this something you can do with it still in place or do you need to remove the whole assembly to do the adjustment.
Thanks for any replies
Cheers
Philip
 
Thanks for the reply

That's the same drawing as I have, but I wondered if it was possible to slide the drum up out of the way instead of having to take it off completely?

I only wondered because they don't mention taking the drum off first before tensioning the forestay?
 
Thanks for the reply

That's the same drawing as I have, but I wondered if it was possible to slide the drum up out of the way instead of having to take it off completely?

I only wondered because they don't mention taking the drum off first before tensioning the forestay?
if I’m correct the clevis pin and split pin in figure 14.1.a is covered by the drum.
 
You have to remove the drum and associated bits to get at the tensioning 'nut'. Take care as you remove bits as they can go overboard quite easily ! I try to keep a wrap of the furling line around the drum to try and stop them joining other bits over the side. Another pair of hands is helpful if there is room at the front.
 
Thanks to everyone who commented on this post.

I did try to do it without removing the whole drum.
I first marked the line where it came out of the drum guide so I had a reference point should I need to unwind and rewind the line off, then back onto the drum again if everything went wrong. Then just undid the furling line from the cleat in the cockpit and piled it up on the foredeck.
Next I removed the drum outside shroud and line guide and slid it out of the way down onto the foredeck.
That left the bare drum still fixed. Removing the cotter pin from the furling gear bearing shroud and undoing the two torque screws at the top of the drum, I was able to slide the whole assembly up out of the way completely and tie off with some rope to support it.
This saved n awful lot of trouble removing the line splitting the drum and dismantling the whole drum assembly and removing it completely.

So if anyone is thinking of tensioning their forestay in the future, it is possible to do it without dismantling the drum and hope this description is useful to them.

Obviously re assembly is the reverse order.

See photos of the operation attached
 

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