Temporary halyard lines

[jonjo]

I am visiting the new boat as owner for the first time this week-end. I will probably squander my time jumping from job to job.

One thing I want to achieve is the temporary removal of the running rigging that has turned green during the one year the yacht has been standing at the brokers.

What type/diameter of line should I buy for the temporary replacements? Visits to the yacht will be in-frequent for the next couple of months, also I hope to use the same lines for annual winter removal of running rigging.

Question 2: Has anyone got a tip on joining halyard to the mouse line. In the past I have used two asymmetric clove hitches plus some spinnaker tape to ensure a clean exit of the join over the pulley at the top of the mast.

 

[steve_cronin]

3mm is adequate for messengers. I used orange builders line once but it has a tendancy to untie itself being rather stiff. One important consideration is attachment to the halyards. This is best done by sewing a 1" diameter loop through the end of the halyard with several strands of whipping. This also allows the halyard to thread through mast top sheaves properly. The pole uplift is particularly difficult (nay impossible if you just tie the messenger to the halyard) if the attachment is too thick. Also make sure that the mesengers aren't chafing on the shrouds or any other sharp or hard surfaced or you'll be shinning up a bare mast to re-thread!

Steve Cronin

Steve Cronin

 

[qsiv]

I'd agree on the size - but I personally dont like whipping eyes, and always use a flemish eye in the halyard itself - that way I know I can tug to my hearts content and not worry about losing the connection (well, within the limits of the messenger).

Perhaps I'm ove cautious, but my 'big halyards' would (I guess) weigh in at close to 20 to 30 Kg, and I fret if I need an extra tug to get past an obstruction.

If you do want to put flemish eyes in I'd do it after washing as they will be much softer to handle.

 

[snowleopard]

joining lines

for small stuff (2-3mm) rolling hitch 2-3 ins from the end, another half hitch just before the end, wrap in masking or insulating tape. runs over sheaves and through halliard exits very easily.

if replacing with a line of the same size, butt the two lines end-to-end and sew together with needle and palm.

 

[Skyva_2]

The rolling hitch and 3 mm line approach works OK; having just done the same job I was pleased to find that some halyards had a loop sewn in, made by cutting out 2 inches of inner core and folding back the outer sheath of the braid before whipping the end over it. Very effective in braided line.

Wash ropes only in soap flakes; apparently the organic detergents attack synthetic lines. Mine were filthy and needed two washes and much rinsing: then I get complaints about miles of rope hanging up in the boiler room at home.

Keith

 

[qsiv]

"cutting out 2 inches of inner core and folding back the outer sheath of the braid before whipping the end over it"

Yep - thats a Flemish eye.. most well trained riggers will put one in as a matter of course on a halyard, or any other rope that is going to be rove 'inside' a tube. The big advantage is that the combination of messenger (or mouse) line doesnt add any bulk - I regularly pull mine through bullseyes without difficulty.

 

[yoda]

Make sure the messanger is big enough not to jump down the side of the block or sheave.

Yoda

 

[snowleopard]

washing...

don't let SWMBO add fabric conditioner to the wash - makes the ropes puff up!

 

[jonjo]

Fair point, but I wasn’t brave enough to take a trip up the mast before starting the job and a good thing too, because once the main halyard was down I discovered it was 70% chafed through in one section!

I noticed some marginal looking terminals in the standing rigging this week-end so I have decided I cannot rely on professionals and now plan to buy a mast ladder to assist my own thorough mast inspection.

At least now if the messenger jumps off the pulley as you warn I can sort things out.

 

[jonjo]

Re: 3 down / 1 lost

Thanks everyone. 3mm line was the right size for my 12 mm halyards.

4mm would have been too big for the rolling hitch joins, it took a few tugs to get the 3mm stuff through the pulleys but I think the low friction spinnaker tape surface helped here.

I lost one halyard because when I ran out of 3mm messenger line half way down I then discovered I should have taped up the halyard for an unplanned return journey back through the mast. Dough!!

Anyhow next visit, if all goes well, I should have 2 halyards in place so I can then climb the mast to replace the missing 3rd.

 

[jonjo]

Re: Machine or bath cleaning

The boot of my car now contains the halyards plus other sheets and warps. Does the panel recommend cleaning them in the bath using the grape treading technique or would a 30 degree synthetic machine cycle be ok? (The bath can be dedicated to this task for a couple of weeks if required.)

p.s. I have already noted the advice on soap flakes v. detergent. A packet of dreft is on my shopping list.

 

[Guest]

Re: Machine or bath cleaning

Put them in a mesh bag and in the automatic washer. Don't put them in loose - they'll tangle and get jammed between tub and housing. Mesh bags are available from Lakeland Kitchen/Cook shops or mail order.

 

[vyv_cox]

I realise this is too late for your purposes but here goes anyway. I bought a roll of 6 mm blue polypropylene about 10 years ago for this purpose. We always remove halyards Dec - March and replace with the mouse lines. Five full length halyards at 30 metres each, one shorter for the pole uphaul. Heat seal the ends of the polyprop, push a short length of stainless wire through the halyard and the melted end of the mouse line and form into an "S" hook with the ends twisted together. I usually wrap a short piece of electricians tape around the wire to avoid it snagging on anything.

This has worked perfectly for years, only one failure and that was entirely my fault. The polyprop does tend to kink a little and has to be fed through deck organisers. One time it did this and I tugged at the halyard too enthusiastically instead of un-kinking the line, resulting in the wire untwisting itself. Otherwise the polyprop is perfect for the job, too wide to fall between sheave and cheeks, robust, cheap and UV resistant. No sign of chafe after years of use.

 

[seaesta]

I got a whole reel of this 6mm blue stuff free. It is used by BT engineers to pull cables through underground ducting and if you talk nicely to them they may part with some buckshee!!

Why bother substituting running rigging (except when washing). The rigging wears mainly in the same places during the season (blocks and chafe points etc) I just tie the haliard ends together and move the knots well up the mast thereby putting the wear in a different place. Once a month I hitch things round a little which takes minutes. This saves the grief of replacement and I think the running rigging lasts just as long.

Martin

 

[vyv_cox]

I bought mine from a farmers' supplier, don't remember the price but it was very cheap.

I disagree with you. Frapping of halyards during the winter has caused me far more in wear of halyards than a hard season's use. One winter I lost two due to wear against the spreaders caused when a yard working on the boat loosened them off and did not re-tighten. I wash mine every winter anyway and there is little point in replacing them until the start of the new season.