temporary fix for water ingress through screw hole into deck?

[fergycool]

I've just been hanging upside down in my boat and discovered some damp plywood. I located the rain water ingress to the screws holding the sliding wheelhouse door rail to the deck. It's loose and of course the track has then slightly moved and allowed water to get in.

The deck is ply covered with a thin layer of polyester fibreglass.

I'm pretty familiar with the West system and have used that to great success to repair other such areas. The plywood needs to be properly repaired, which will involve lifting the entire door rail up. The plywood will then need to then dry.

Trouble is my boat is in the water and will remain so until summer. It's nigh on impossible for me to rip up the rail and leave it to dry in this weather.

So..... anything that can get me to spring without this getting much worse?

Would Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack cure at least partially block up that crack? Anything else? Gorilla glue, which cures with moisture, along the crack? Any other bodges?

Thanks!

 

[steadyeddy]

How about using heat gently from a heat gun or a hair dryer then using some sort sealer that can be removed in the spring ,then remove the door then.

 

[JumbleDuck]

Would Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack cure at least partially block up that crack? Anything else? Gorilla glue, which cures with moisture, along the crack? Any other bodges?

I have never had any luck with the good Captain's cure, which I strongly suspect to be dilute PVA glue anyway. In your case I think I would take out the screws and squirt some of this stuff into each hole

(caution: it's quite thin so you need to stop it getting out below) and then when that had set I'd put a squirt of non-silicone sealant in each hole and replace the screws. Then a bead of sealant against the outer edge of the track.

 

[AllanG]

CT1 sealant may be suitable, especially as it sets even underwater.

 

[LadyInBed]

CT1 sealant may be suitable, especially as it sets even underwater.

:encouragement:

 

[fisherman]

The ply will rot if not dried and screw holes dealt with. I have had to replace several sections, one particularly was newish ply but the previous owner left bolt holes, the water got between the GRP and ply, another recent purchase I know of, advertised as well built, new, etc, needs a new deck as the grp cover was too thin for working and got holes knocked in it.
Whatever product you use must keep the water out. CT1 is very good in my book.

It would be better if a deck was sealed overall, then a pad of hardwood on top and GRP over, to fix to.

 

[V1701]

I'd use any old cheap bathroom sealant, CT1 is way too good and will be a lot more difficult to remove when the time comes...

 

[Graham376]

Problem with many bathroom sealants is that they're silicone which will contaminate the surface and stop finishes from sticking. Any expanding PU adhesive should work, particularly on damp wood.

 

[johnalison]

I don't know whether it would work here but I had great success with Capt Tolley's with a window leak on a previous boat. Clearly a proper repair with wood is needed at some time.

 

[Topcat47]

Capt Tolley's is good for narrow cracks and things like crazing on GRP. I"d not reccommend it for deep cracks or "mobile" ones that might shift.

 

[Boathook]

Arbomast BR is a non setting butyl? sealant and will tolerate a certain amount of movement. As others have mentioned you do need to try and dry out the wood to stop further damage. Are you able to cover the area to stop further rain water getting in?

 

[fergycool]

Arbomast BR is a non setting butyl? sealant and will tolerate a certain amount of movement. As others have mentioned you do need to try and dry out the wood to stop further damage. Are you able to cover the area to stop further rain water getting in?

It's a little difficult as the leak is around the bottom rail the the sliding door sits on.

The plywood on the inner side is open to the air now and should dry as long as the leak is stopped. I do keep the boat heated and ventilated to some degree over winter.

There's some good ideas on here and I had sort of settled on some PU glue to stick some flexible covering on top. A pain to remove, but I think I'll be cutting out, rather than peeling, come spring. Your idea about a butyl sealant is good though. I have some butyl tape that will adhere to the area, as long as I can get it dry enough to stick. It will look ugly but I think a dry and solid boat beats a pretty boat anytime! Thanks!